2-speed/3-speed hub on a 110mm frame?

[mornview]

I've greatly prided myself on being able to get by on just one gear for some time now, so it humbles me to admit that I probably need to move on to a three speed hub. In the city I'm pursuing my degree at I could both benefit from a lower gear (for tackling a few nasty hills) and a higher gear (I may be looking at a 10 mile commute to work, and there are a few straightaways that are just begging for bigger gear inces (I'm currently running 46/18)). At the bare minimum I at least want a lower gear because I'm worried to think about myself working so hard to climb some of those hills when it's -20 degrees out.

In any event, practically all of my frames are spaced at 110mm for the rear dropouts. I really do not want to cold-set my frames. In my research it appears every 2 or 3-speed hub out there is spaced at (at least) 116mm.

So my question is this - has anyone put one of these hubs on a 110mm frame? There are a LOT of people here running IGH's, and I'm doubting everybody is spacing their frames.

Are there extra spacers on the hubs that could be taken off? How thick are the locknuts? If they are 6mm or greater, I could replace them with some Bendix locknuts (which are 3mm) and I'd be in business.

Thanks for the help guys ... I really don't want to alter my frames, but I also realize the difference between this upgrade is pretty much the difference between enjoying cycling for the next few years.

 

[Nagant]

In my very limited experience I've been able to slip one side of a Nexus 3 in the drop out and spread the other side just enough by hand to slip it in. Surely not the best method but on steel frames it has worked fine for me with 3 speed hubs with 120mm or so spacing.

 

[5speed]

3 spd SA or 2 spd manual bendix

 

[mornview]

In my very limited experience I've been able to slip one side of a Nexus 3 in the drop out and spread the other side just enough by hand to slip it in. Surely not the best method but on steel frames it has worked fine for me with 3 speed hubs with 120mm or so spacing.

Okay, that's definitely something to keep in mind. I know steel frames have a bit of "give" in them, and as I should've specified in my original post, I'm strictly dealing with steel frames.

 

[mornview]

3 spd SA or 2 spd manual bendix

Sorry, are you stating that you have successfully used these hubs? Or are you asking me to specify what particular hubs I plan to use? Because I haven't begun to narrow down hubs yet; I want to make sure this is a feasible project before I even go there.

 

[mornview]

One other thing I should mention is that regardless of what hub I go with, coaster brakes are a must.

 

[Wildcat]

I've done just that on cruiser frames, 3 speed w coaster Shimano, 3 speed w coaster Sachs, Bendix yellow band 2 speed, SA 3 speed w coaster. A few mm on each side makes it a little harder to get in, but they all worked well. I used Schwinn middleweight frames, CWC frames, Huffy, Murray, Ross, and Columbia. My latest is the new Sram 2 speed auto w coaster on my narrow folder frame. Hard to get in in, but no problem.

 

[5speed]

i guess u never said what frame/bike u have?there are tons on light,middle and heavyweight frames that used mutispeed hubs,i have used alot of coaster multi hubs,ant they are a bolt in

 

[Bicycle808]

F&S Torpedo Duomatic is spaced at 112, and goes into a 110mm spaced frame super-easily. Old Bendix are pretty narrow, too. As others said, a simple spread from 110 to 116mm is easy, but in my experience, you're unlike to have the spread even on either side. Cold-setting is no big deal, either.

S-A is awesome b/c they have 2-, 3-, and 5-speed hubs available in 110mm spacing...but, alas, no coasters on those super-narrow jawns. I'm building a Worksman INB with 2-speed and v-brakes; should be a lot of fun if i ever get it done.

 

[Bicycle808]

i guess u never said what frame/bike u have?there are tons on light,middle and heavyweight frames that used mutispeed hubs,i have used alot of coaster multi hubs,ant they are a bolt in

This is a good point, too... most of the old bikes built around derailers or IGHs from the factory will be spaced 116 to 120mm, depending on the model/year. Most will have provisions for caliper-style rim brakes, but you can forego those and run a coaster, easy.

 

[mornview]

I kind of purposefully left things open-ended because I'm not entirely sure what frame I'll try building up first; all I can say is that it'll be a 110mm frame (because that's basically all of the frames I have).

I know there are a bunch of old 3-speed frames out there spaced at 116mm (many of which could be had quite cheaply off of Craigslist), but there's already the sentimental attachment to the frames we already have and, what's more, I'd just prefer to use what I already have.

With that said, I'm glad to hear that this should be quite do-able.

I'm also glad to hear about the 110mm freewheel options. I'm planning on experimenting with a front drum brake some time next year; that might just ease up my coaster brake requirements.

 

[mornview]

Ah, thanks for the reminder on Bendix gearing. I think I'll rule that out for my first IGH, until I get an idea of what set-up suits me best.

I think the only remaining factor that would help me decide what IGH to go with is what has well-documented overhaul instructions. For me the main reason for going IGH instead of deraileur would be knowing I can fix anything that goes wrong. After my experience with Shimano 333's, I can't say that confidently yet. I know 3-speeds have a reputation for not needing maintenance, but still, I don't like living life worrying about what will happen if something does go wrong.

Especially since the three speed hub would be most advantageous during the winter, and I know what winter can do to a hub. Speaking of which, our first snow accumulations are due this coming Monday .

 

[Bicycle808]

IME, derailer systems are way more accessible in terms of maintenance and repair than IGHs are. Once your IGH is set-up properly, it'll need less maintenance, but overhauling an IGH is more work and more difficult than keeping a derailleur clean and lubed. Also, if you kill your derailleur, you can replace it with a new one by cutting the cable, popping your chain apart, and loosening one bolt. If you kill your IGH, best case scenario, you can just swap guts. Worst case scenario, you'll need to lace a new hub into the wheel. I'm not trying to dissuade you here; I think an IGH is the better choice for old cruiser frames, and the better choice for commuting in general, and I think you're better off with the IGH. But, I'd be remiss if i didn't mention that a derailer system is extremely simple, especially if it's being controlled by friction shifting. Indexing is slightly more difficult, but only b/c compatibility becomes a huge factor, plus cable tension needs to be "just so"...

If you want to fix stuff that goes wrong with your IGH, the no-brainer choice is Sturmey-Archer 3 speed. 2 speeds are awesome in their simplicity, but the Sturmey version is known to be problematic, plus they don't seem to offer replacement bits for the kickbacks to the extent they do for the 3 speed. My next choice would be the SRAM Automatix, b/c by all accounts, these are bulletproof hubs with above-average coaster brakes. Spare parts availability is admittedly very limited, but I'd be tempted to just buy 2 and lace one, keeping the other in the box as a donor hub for years to come.

 

[Wildcat]

I think it would be a good idea to have the dropouts aligned at the width your hub will be. I've never done it, because the difference didn't seem like much, but it makes sense. As I kid I broke a couple of axles by tightening one side, then pulled the wheel left or right to align it and tightened the other side. That put a a lot of stress right on the axle. I was a skinny kid, about 50 lbs, so I was able to ride my old 24" Evans for another month with only one side bolted, the axle had snapped right at the hub.

Also, if the axle is the kind with the flat area in the threads, make sure they are flush with the top of the dropouts.

 

[mornview]

I've been intrigued by the Automatix, but I'm just not sure if it would annoy me not being able to control when it shifts.

It's interesting how rarely the Shimano 3-Speeds ever get brought up when discussing the best 3-Speeds, as they are so prevelant (both coming stock on a lot of bikes and I see a lot of people here using them).

 

[Wildcat]

I put a yellow band Bendix 2 speed on my yellow Varsity, the shifting became second nature in a short period of time. I like the auto shifting on the Automatix, but it was a 70 dollar gamble. I had a Shimano 3 speed w coaster, a 3CCC I believe. I put thousands of miles on it on different bikes and it was in good working condition when I sold it. I also had a Sachs 3 with coaster that was very smooth shifting that held up well. The brakes on older Sturmey Archer 3 speeds, and older Shimano weren't that great.

SA 3 w coaster on a Schwinn ballooner.

Sachs 3 w coaster on a 65 Continental.

Yellow band Bendix 2 speed on a 71 Varsity. (S-7 wheel)

That same ballooner with a Shimano 3 w coaster.

 

[mornview]

I put a yellow band Bendix 2 speed on my yellow Varsity, the shifting became second nature in a short period of time. I like the auto shifting on the Automatix, but it was a 70 dollar gamble. I had a Shimano 3 speed w coaster, a 3CCC I believe. I put thousands of miles on it on different bikes and it was in good working condition when I sold it. I also had a Sachs 3 with coaster that was very smooth shifting that held up well. The brakes on older Sturmey Archer 3 speeds, and older Shimano weren't that great.

SA 3 w coaster on a Schwinn ballooner.

Sachs 3 w coaster on a 65 Continental.

Yellow band Bendix 2 speed on a 71 Varsity. (S-7 wheel)

That same ballooner with a Shimano 3 w coaster.

Thanks for pointing out the rim size on that Varsity ... I knew something looked unusual.

Sweet builds, man ... all of them are great.

 

[Wildcat]

Also, the tires on the Continental are 1.95, the frame wouldn't take 2.125.

 

[Wildcat]

Sachs 3 speed w coaster on an 80 Typhoon, 2.125 tires on a Schwinn middleweight.