MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
I'm looking at the red bikes, that WF's rear hoop is insane! And the Schwinn twin bar too! They look small, are they 24s as well? Nice score, forty bucks for a truckload!
Thanks Matti; it’s hard to tell as all the tires on these bikes are toast!!!!I'm looking at the red bikes, that WF's rear hoop is insane! And the Schwinn twin bar too! They look small, are they 24s as well? Nice score, forty bucks for a truckload!
See where I’m battling @Wildcat ?Here's what mine looked like:
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Love - “Rolumbiafast” !!!!Cool Rolumbiafast build man!!! I like the new crank and sprocket.
BTW: I put the cranks by each other…. The new crank definitely has longer crank arms, but maybe an inch?Ok, this never happens....
I call my buddy “500 Bike Bruce” and line up a trip to look for a new crank.
found an exact fit for dust covers and hardware (longer crank arm) that was a bit rusty, but all threads everywhere were clean.
got it home, scrubbed it up, pulled out the old crank, re-lubed the bearings, dropped in the new, snugged everything up.... boom!
soup to nuts was like, 15 minutes.
couldn’t believe it. Never had a swap go so smooth.
so, I got some parts on order. All the heavy lifting is done. Just wait for parts, throw it together and we’re there!!!!
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What is harder to replace, an original six decades old fork or a modern wheel axel?
I see so many people put new wheel sets on old bikes by grinding the axel slots on thier fork to fit the wheel. NEVER DO THIS!!! It's very simple. Just grind or file flat spots on each side of the axel so that the fork is left original. Who knows, you may decide to put vintage wheels back on it some day.
That was todays project for the Rad Rot Bike. Here's some tips:
First mark the center of the axle in four spots, left, right, fore and aft. Make sure your marks line up across from each other on both sides of the wheel. I used some tape and marked it with a sharpie so that it's easy to see.
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The tape was placed away from the inside nut just enough to visually match the thickness of the fork. With the tape guide to go by, I then proceeded to take just a small amount of material off of each side (90 deg. apart) with a cut off wheel until it matched the fork width (keeping both sides equil). A vernier caliper comes in very handy here.
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Done! As a bonus the axel doesn"t spin around in the nice unaltered X-53 fork!
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Too late for me....Before you take a go at the fork, please read this
Yep!. Don't drill..........fileBefore you take a go at the fork, please read this
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