41 DX

[41DX]

Hooch, I took a look at you DX on the bay (and then your whole store). I see things like that and just start daydreaming. I must have visualized a build up for every early PW Schwinn that came up on the bay through the month of May. I would put my bid down and get excited like a little kid only to be slammed into reality as the price jumped up out of my budget. The good thing was another bike would show up a few days later and then I could start over again. Your bike looks like a fun project for someone.

 

[OUTLAW]

who is this dude. he posted the same thing on klunker, whats up with this.

Outlaw :?

 

[chimichanga]

spammer from spamalot

 

[socal_jack]

That paint came out real nice, looks like an FMF BB adapter also? Got one laying around somewhere, won't be using on this build though.

 

[41DX]

Yep, FMF good eye. I have a set of old Shimano 600 crankarms I took off a road bike in the late 80's for now until I find a good deal on the right TA Cyclotourist's. Holding off on BB until I get rear wheel built because I am bound and determined to get the chainline right the first time.

 

[41DX]

For now putting together S/A 3 speed coaster rear and a drum front on some Rhyno lites. Still searching for an Ashtabula stem. Influenced by this site think I will get a Skull Skate bar.Things are going slow. I need a bigger allowance. Dec. 01 is coming fast.

Hmm lets see.. play with bike/clean gutters/play with bike aaak off to clean out the gutters before the rain starts again. ...

Gotta love this old school suspension....

 

[Gold Street Customs]

Ok I have to ask you where did you get the reducers to put a three piece crank in the older frames I would love to do that to my Raliegh . :shock:

 

[41DX]

FMF. Bid off the bay for about $15. I think Harris Cycle offers something equevilent on their web site.

 

[41DX]

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html

New! Bulletproof American-to-Euro Conversion kit $21.95
4 long CrMo bolts connect the two bushings to one another for a secure mounting.
This saves weight, improves shifting, and allows the use of modern clipless pedals.

 

[Bendix]

opc/tpc adapters

Ok I have to ask you where did you get the reducers to put a three piece crank in the older frames I would love to do that to my Raliegh . :shock:

any local bike shop can get various brands from common distributors like J&B (bulletproof, truvative), BTI (mrp), and QBP (mrp). all pretty much the same thing, i've used mrp's with no issues.

 

[Rat Rod]

And if you're not concerned about having sealed bearings....$14.26.

http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_inf ... s_id=10468

 

[41DX]

RR,
Still learning here so help me out.
With the Pyarmid style, how would you adjust chainline. Can you get different length axles.

Here is my plan of attack:

Correct me if am wrong (and I have no doubt I will use the wrong terminology here), I have 2 fixed distances and 1 variable still to buy.

Build wheel add rear cog (already bought and doing)
Determine where front chainring alligns on bottom bracket (I have some old Shimano 600 crankarms and plan to use 1 ring on the outside (big ring side) of spider.

Purchase bottom bracket with spindle width proper to allign rear cog with front chainring (the unknown spindle length?)

Soooo... am I missing something, putting too much thought into this, or on the right track?
What is the math to determine proper spindle length without trial and error if I don't know where the crankarm thus chainring will fit on the spindle before mounting. I am sure my not so lbs can help me determine this before buying but it is always nice to go in knowing a little bit about what you are talking about.

Thanks for your tips,
T

 

[Gold Street Customs]

Thank you,I love this site 8)

 

[ej599]

Phenominal! Good job!

 

[Rat Rod]

In order to get proper chain alignment you would have the rear wheel re-dished so that the rear sprocket lines up with the front.

 

[Bendix]

In order to get proper chain alignment you would have the rear wheel re-dished so that the rear sprocket lines up with the front.

dishing only changes the rims centering in relation to the hub lock nuts, the sprocket would still be in the same place in relation to the front chainring since being part of the hub it has not moved. 41dx, i would just pick up a couple shimano un-54 bb's in different lengths with the understanding that you'll only need one of them. as long as they're still clean and new looking you should be able to return the one(s) that don't work. they wouldn't even have to be installed all the way- just the right side for trial and error.....use the one that puts your chainring the same distance from the centerline of the frame as the rear sprocket. (you probably knew that.....). glad to see you're making headway! 12/1 is sneaking up on me.....

 

[Rat Rod]

I'm just going by the last two bikes I built using the BB adapter shown above.

My LBS took wheels that had cassettes on them and removed the cassettes, added spacers and a single speed freewheel and then dished the wheel.

In the end they got perfect chain alignment without any adjusting on the front end.

 

[Bendix]

yes, when you're dealing with a multi speed hub & changing it to use a single speed f/w you mix & match axle spacers and put the f/w wherever you need to in order to line up with the chainring. you then need to re-dish the wheel to center the rim in the frame. 41dx won't have any latitude as to where his rear cog goes with the sturmey archer hub, so he'll have to adjust his chainline with spindle length. dishing is a by-product of changing the axle spacing/rear cog location but does not affect chainline by itself. i like that frame you used, added a rear brake yet?

 

[Rat Rod]

Sounds good.

My response was aimed at Gold Street initially, but good info none the less. :wink:

 

[JoKeR63]

41dx won't have any latitude as to where his rear cog goes with the sturmey archer hub, so he'll have to adjust his chainline with spindle length.

Actually the rear cog can be moved around a lot. With an offset cog, it can be flipped for two positions. A straight cog goes in between an offset for three positions. SA hubs usually have two spacers for the cog that can be restacked for different positions. There's maybe 6mm of change available there.