Story time: was driving home from a store, and passed a little vintage shop. Outside it was a black-and-white RollFast, from the 60s. One speed with a coaster brake. Has drops that go towards the fork. Went around the block to check it out again, and fell in love. I went home, and came back later, and talked to the guy, and I got the thing for half off because because I could ride it. The frame, fork, and headset are all in great condition. So is the crankset. Wheels and hubs, not so much. Riding it more, I realised I'd like a brake, and new wheels. I think it's a 5/32 chain, the teeth on the chainring and freewheel are giant. The brake, I figure I could run a calliper from the kickstand mount towards the wheel between the chain stays. I'm a mountain biker and commuter, and rim brakes and American made things aren't my thing. Planning to run this as kinda a little speedster. I need suggestions for durable wheels, front and back, and a good brake that can stop me. Also if someone has encyclopaedic knowledge of every bike on the planet and knows the size of my chain off the top of their head, I would appreciate it if you shared.
'60s RollFast build
- Thread starter RigidRiverRat
- Start date
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These will reach the rim on 26" balloon bikes
http://porkchopbmx.com/1080-extra-long-reach-bmx-cruiser-bicycle-brake-caliper-black/
http://porkchopbmx.com/1080-extra-long-reach-bmx-cruiser-bicycle-brake-caliper-black/
First, welcome!
Judging by the chain ring, it's a late 60's Rollfast (with pretty good original paint). As stated above, it's a standard size chain they have used for the one speeds and most internally geared hubs.
So, to change out the wheels there are a few different ways to do it. To keep the vintage look, chrome steel rims aren't that expensive. But for a change, I just got a pair of a newer style and like them, they are double walled alloy, strong and lighter, and the same 26" size.
A set of Worksman wheels (check the for sale section here) are classic looking and are stronger than most, heavy duty. They sometimes have a drum brake on their front wheels.
The size should be 26 x 1.75 originally for your bike, but you could go with a wider tire also. Just make sure it's a decimal size, not a fraction size. 26 x 2.125 (on your bike now) are fairly common, have a lot of styles in that size. You could find a smooth tread for more speed.
As for hubs, if you can afford it, get a drum brake for up front, and a coaster for the rear. Yours may have a red band Bendix on it, one of the best. It may just need a good cleaning, lube, and adjustment.
A 2 speed kickback hub will give you a higher gear for more speed. No cables needed. A 3 speed or more with coaster brake would include a cable and shifter.
So, for a little speedster, I'd add a 2 speed w coaster on newer alloy wheels, front drum brake or just a handbrake up front to save money, flat handlebars and a new seat. It comes down to how much you want to spend and what you want.
Judging by the chain ring, it's a late 60's Rollfast (with pretty good original paint). As stated above, it's a standard size chain they have used for the one speeds and most internally geared hubs.
So, to change out the wheels there are a few different ways to do it. To keep the vintage look, chrome steel rims aren't that expensive. But for a change, I just got a pair of a newer style and like them, they are double walled alloy, strong and lighter, and the same 26" size.
A set of Worksman wheels (check the for sale section here) are classic looking and are stronger than most, heavy duty. They sometimes have a drum brake on their front wheels.
The size should be 26 x 1.75 originally for your bike, but you could go with a wider tire also. Just make sure it's a decimal size, not a fraction size. 26 x 2.125 (on your bike now) are fairly common, have a lot of styles in that size. You could find a smooth tread for more speed.
As for hubs, if you can afford it, get a drum brake for up front, and a coaster for the rear. Yours may have a red band Bendix on it, one of the best. It may just need a good cleaning, lube, and adjustment.
A 2 speed kickback hub will give you a higher gear for more speed. No cables needed. A 3 speed or more with coaster brake would include a cable and shifter.
So, for a little speedster, I'd add a 2 speed w coaster on newer alloy wheels, front drum brake or just a handbrake up front to save money, flat handlebars and a new seat. It comes down to how much you want to spend and what you want.
One more thing... The depth of teeth, they're about a 1/2" deep, and for sure bigger than my mountain bike? Where do I find a cog that'll work with the chainring? The cog is worn down, and I'd like a different size, because I live somewhere pretty hilly. If I got a regular modern hub, could I throw a cog that size on, or would I have to pull the current hub off? I know how to work on bikes, but I've never worked on one of these real American one's. I always work on European bikes what go fast and break like twigs, lol.
Ridgidriverrat,
You are over thinking it.
Read: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
As for parts if you are in USA, most any cheap mallwart china junk bike is your source of parts. A smaller front chainring can be had from a kids 20" or smaller bike - cheap at a thrift shop.
You are over thinking it.
Read: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
As for parts if you are in USA, most any cheap mallwart china junk bike is your source of parts. A smaller front chainring can be had from a kids 20" or smaller bike - cheap at a thrift shop.
Aha. I mainly come from the mountain bike side of things. I don't have a klunker in mind, but it would be a shame if the finished bike never saw any dirt. I was thinking maybe running WTB Dual Duty's as the rims, and getting new hubs, more on the mountain bike side of things. The coaster brake is definitely a keeper, and I plan to get it professionally overhauled. Also where I live it's very pothole-y, and it's almost impossible to ride around them all. I figured out how to run the rim brake, and I'm going to fab up what I need sometime in the near future. I realised my butt either needs to be higher, or sit farther back. Are there any good seat posts that go up high for American bikes, or are they all low sitting? In that case can I find a banana seat compatible with my seat post? Or that will fit in at a seat post? I can also fab up a seat post, but unless it's 75USD and up for a seat post, it's not worth doing. Which one's gonna run me the lowest amount of money?
Need to measure it. Some are 13/16", some 7/8".
Examples:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22-2
Examples:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/components/seatposts/22-2
There's a guy that makes solid steel layback seatposts. Slowriderz has sold me a couple that worked out well. When raised up high, they don't bend, but they are heavy.
The bike I posted has a 7/8" post that I had to install with a mallet because of years of clamping down an old 13/16" Schwinn post and a collar shim, 'cause it was all I could find at the time. 
While I have bent one junky one, most of the ones with 5/8" mounting points will do unless you're a heavy seat rider. I'm 180 and usually my weight is mostly on the pedals and bar unless coasting on a smooth surface. If you're bigger or expect to impact the saddle, a solid one may be your best bet.
While I have bent one junky one, most of the ones with 5/8" mounting points will do unless you're a heavy seat rider. I'm 180 and usually my weight is mostly on the pedals and bar unless coasting on a smooth surface. If you're bigger or expect to impact the saddle, a solid one may be your best bet.Aha I'm sixteen, so I can eat a large pizza for lunch, still be hungry, and still weigh 60kg the next day. I can also blow all the money in my wallet on shiny bike parts I don't need without having to worry about food or rent. More than anything I'm worried about the consequences for my recklessness and impulsivity and apathy. I'm a sixteen year old boy, I'm gonna make bad decisions, and I'll admit that. Maybe not in the moment when something happens, but right now yes. I'm going to be stupid, I'm going to pull wheelies off curbs. I'm going to see a dirt path and decide to ride this thing on it. I'm going to race it. There's no way around it. I'm just thinking ahead so I'm not going to be riding it and have it fall apart on me (as often).
I think I might run a layback on this thing. Got some heavier duty coaster brake wheels ordered today. Probably will end up running something like a Soma Velodrama handlebar in the end, and the pedal backs are so nice I might just use them. Gonna get an adapter so I can pedal on my SPDs. Some day I'll post the finished product
I think I might run a layback on this thing. Got some heavier duty coaster brake wheels ordered today. Probably will end up running something like a Soma Velodrama handlebar in the end, and the pedal backs are so nice I might just use them. Gonna get an adapter so I can pedal on my SPDs. Some day I'll post the finished product
When I was sixteen, I only weighed 100lbs, I could spin the rear wheel on my bike from a standstill and leave a patch of rubber. If I try that now, somethings gonna break. The bike and/or myself.
It sounds like you have some good ideas for your bike. What is a pedal back and SPDs?
It sounds like you have some good ideas for your bike. What is a pedal back and SPDs?
Pedal back is the same thing as a coaster brake, sorry. That was kinda a bit of a ramble while I tried to eat dinner and talk to my mum at the same time. SPDs are clipless shoes. I prefer em because I can usually run a lower ratio on em and still climb the giant hills I need to climb. I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota, and downtown and one of the main streets, West 7th are kind of in the middle of a giant hill that's leftover from the bank of the Mississippi when it was much higher. And then there's the west side, where it's just one giant hill up from the Mississippi. No matter where I go, I always have a long, painful hill climb. Without clipless I can usually only climb on a 32:20 ratio, while with clipless I can usually climb the same hill with about a 32:16 ratio or so.
