61 Tornado rebuild

[John DelGato]

I built this last year while my 62 Typhoon was in the shop. It's pretty much mocked up the way i lke with the exception of paint. So that's the plan:
Break it down.
Strip the old paint off.
Paint it.
Rebuild.

 

[John DelGato]

Figured I'd prep and paint this seatpost right away so it is well cured when I need it.

 

[John DelGato]

Things got a little random and I rediscovered some parts I had forgotten about... and now I'm rethinking my mock-up.

 

[johnsmith]

Figured I'd prep and paint this seatpost right away so it is well cured when I need it.View attachment 153490

Can you tell me more about your technique for the seat post? What exactly are you doing? I thought about doing the same, but I'm not sure how to approach it. Thanks.

 

[John DelGato]

"Technique" implies that I know what i'm doing. I've done this before, but it's still just a hap-hazard experiment. Regrets have been few so far.
The previous shot (table), is immediately after sanding. This was done with a dry 2-sided sanding sponge, using both sides. The above shots are poorly lit but show the same after several coats of engine enamel clear coat gloss. If you zoom in you may see some cool details.
Thanks for your interest, and good luck!

 

[John DelGato]

Everything off of the frame but the cups and head races. I chipped this pvc pipe on the cup. The cups are showing no signs of giving. Soaking in penetrant, calling it a day.

 

[John DelGato]

These bearings seem to have been adequately preserved for the last several decades. I had popped them out last year giving them some regard of cleaning and degreasing. Prior to that, there was still a good quantity of red grease in there from the previous owner. At that time, I repacked them with the Parks blue grease. This time, I believe I have done a much more thorough cleaning.

After taking a coffee-table-book worth of photos, I worked in some new grease (Finish Line brand with teflon) and have stored in snack bags until I need them.

 

[John DelGato]

My current method for paint removal is: vinegar/water, sanding sponge and elbow grease. I have passed on a number of warm, dry days to do this. It's cold and rainy this weekend.
I keep reviewing photos I took during disassembly. comparing a couple of different handlebar sets:

Higher reach, more angular bends, chrome.

Lower reach, more rounded bends, sanded and clear-coated.

 

[John DelGato]

I've been sanding every now and then, implementing a few different mediums.

There's still a few tough to get spots. I may try some chemical stripper at this point. Also, still need to get the seat tube, BB, and headtube.

 

[toro1978]

Just be happy it is not powder coated. I use a knife to scrape off the paint roughly, then I sand the remains. Curious what your methods are.
I dig your bike. I had a cantilever frame that I had built up with a stem and fork with these angles.

 

[John DelGato]

Curious what your methods are.

I started out with sanding sponges and vinegar water, then moved on to wire brush. Chemical stripper on small sections using course steel wool and wirebrush.
Work has been spread out in sessions.
After the wet sanding, Ive found it helpful to wash up with dish soap and a wet towl then hose off. Otherwise you'll have a rusty haze dried to the bare steel.

 

[John DelGato]

....Oh, and some of those wire brushes that attach to the drill. That's where i left off.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

After the wet sanding, Ive found it helpful to wash up with dish soap and a wet towl then hose off. Otherwise you'll have a rusty haze dried to the bare steel.

Steel wool leaves little steel particles behind that attract rust, just as sanding does.

 

[John DelGato]

A couple of days ago, more stripping:

I was able to fit this snug into the BB after wearing it down a bit.

Just seconds of work with this. This left some grooves; I'm hoping I didn't do any damage.

 

[John DelGato]

I haven't found a proper means of getting in the head tube yet. Looks pretty nasty in there. I'll probably try a wooden dowel with some sandpaper slotted in.

No firm decision yet in regard of finish. Either clear coat or prime and paint. I had decided on a color, bought the primer and paint, but then i was impressed by the bare metal.

 

[Captain Awesome]

View attachment 159335
I haven't found a proper means of getting in the head tube yet. Looks pretty nasty in there. I'll probably try a wooden dowel with some sandpaper slotted in.

These come in different sizes

 

[John DelGato]

Thanks!
Would you happen to have a link to that?

 

[Captain Awesome]

Thanks!
Would you happen to have a link to that?

Link here

 

[John DelGato]

I was able to scrub out top and bottom of the head tube with a green scotchbrite pad getting most of the paint where the bearing races / cups sit. Otherwise, down into the tube there are burs that must have settled there during production. removing that paint may be challenging. If I can't get it with a brass brush, I will probably coat as-is with the blo.
I have pressed on with stripping. Still a lot of stuborn, hard to reach spots -- welds, crevices, and such. I have resorted to using a set of brass brushes for a rotory tool with my hand drill (this seems all kinds of wrong but it is working).

 

[John DelGato]

Just be happy it is not powder coated. I use a knife to scrape off the paint roughly, then I sand the remains. Curious what your methods are.
I dig your bike. I had a cantilever frame that I had built up with a stem and fork with these angles.

I use the longer size sanding sponge -- There's a course side and a fine side (there may not be a "grit" disclosure on the label) -- in conjunction with a bucket of vinegar and water. Moved on to small steel wirebrushes and steel wool. I tried some automotive stripper on some small areas (dropouts mostly). Found small brass wire brushes preferable to the steel ones along with good old steel wool.
I'd like to see this frame you speak of.