Can anyone tell me where I might find a 95 Schwinn Cruiser frame?
95 Schwinn frame
- Thread starter Mark Todhunter
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Let me help him out a little:
My dad really likes the lines of the Schwinn Cruiser Six they did for the 100th anniversary back in 1995. He also really likes the center-pull brakes on it, and probably some other stuff (we haven't really talked much about it). He would prefer to build his own with components he chooses rather than buying one already built and changing nearly everything on it. He really liked how this one was done:
So, a few questions:
My dad really likes the lines of the Schwinn Cruiser Six they did for the 100th anniversary back in 1995. He also really likes the center-pull brakes on it, and probably some other stuff (we haven't really talked much about it). He would prefer to build his own with components he chooses rather than buying one already built and changing nearly everything on it. He really liked how this one was done:
So, a few questions:
- What original frame is the 1995 Cruiser Six based on?
- Would finding one of the original frames be easier?
- What is different between the original frame and the 1995 frame? IE - does the original frame not have center-pull brakes, etc?
Those frames look like most of the Chicago-built Schwinn cantilever frames, but the differences are mostly in:
-frame construction. The Chicago Schwinns were electro-forged, which gave a seamless, smooth vibe to the frame, kinda like fillet-brazed frames have. The '95 frames were welded.
-brakes. The "centerpulls" you're referring to were cantilever brakes, although the frame itself has canti-posts, upon which you can run traditional cantilevers or V-brakes. The 95 frame had these posts, whereas the older frames did not. Most of those ran coaster brakes and/or long-reach caliper brakes that bolted onto the fork crown/center bridge.
-spacing. The 95 takes a 6 speed cluster, so it is spread wider (I don't recall the exact specs, but to run a 6 it will be between 126mm and 135mm.) The older Schwinns were spaced at 110mm for coaster mdoels, and 120mm for the 5 speed derailer models.
Here's the turnkey option:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schwinn-Cru...ry-Edition-26-boys-bicycle-Nice-/191050368464
Another option would be to get an older Chicago built frame, run a newer 1" threaded fork with canti posts on it, and then explore rear brake options, which could run from a coaster to a drum to a caliper brake, to a bolt-on canti-plate, to bolt on posts, to welding canti posts on yourselves.
If he wants to run a derailer, it can be done on any of 'em, but it may be easiest if you get a frame that came with a derailer from the factory.
HTH.
-Rob
PS- Welcome to RRB, Mr. Todhunter, Sr.
-frame construction. The Chicago Schwinns were electro-forged, which gave a seamless, smooth vibe to the frame, kinda like fillet-brazed frames have. The '95 frames were welded.
-brakes. The "centerpulls" you're referring to were cantilever brakes, although the frame itself has canti-posts, upon which you can run traditional cantilevers or V-brakes. The 95 frame had these posts, whereas the older frames did not. Most of those ran coaster brakes and/or long-reach caliper brakes that bolted onto the fork crown/center bridge.
-spacing. The 95 takes a 6 speed cluster, so it is spread wider (I don't recall the exact specs, but to run a 6 it will be between 126mm and 135mm.) The older Schwinns were spaced at 110mm for coaster mdoels, and 120mm for the 5 speed derailer models.
Here's the turnkey option:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schwinn-Cru...ry-Edition-26-boys-bicycle-Nice-/191050368464
Another option would be to get an older Chicago built frame, run a newer 1" threaded fork with canti posts on it, and then explore rear brake options, which could run from a coaster to a drum to a caliper brake, to a bolt-on canti-plate, to bolt on posts, to welding canti posts on yourselves.
If he wants to run a derailer, it can be done on any of 'em, but it may be easiest if you get a frame that came with a derailer from the factory.
HTH.
-Rob
PS- Welcome to RRB, Mr. Todhunter, Sr.
Last edited:
Rob, thank you much for the information. I really do want to run an old looking frame with a derailed. I do not know how far back I can be looking and what exactly to look for in that sense. I did put in a bid on the 95 that is on ebay that is turn key but it is nothing like I want as far as look and it would be ashamed to butch such a nice ride for me to have my desired look of a rod. Is it safe to go with any OLD Schwinn frame to put a derailed on?
Also I am not sure of frame size as relates to the name of the old Schwinns. I am 6'1" with kinda long legs and so I want to be sure that I am at least looking at the correct frame for my project. I do like the idea of the older welded frame but again I want it to be geared. The rear brake I can compromise on but not the gears. I would most definitely put a modern fork on that can allow for the Vbrake. Your help and kindness is most appreciated as I am going on pure adrenaline right now and just want to get started. I do know that I must take my time on this most important first part.
Also I am not sure of frame size as relates to the name of the old Schwinns. I am 6'1" with kinda long legs and so I want to be sure that I am at least looking at the correct frame for my project. I do like the idea of the older welded frame but again I want it to be geared. The rear brake I can compromise on but not the gears. I would most definitely put a modern fork on that can allow for the Vbrake. Your help and kindness is most appreciated as I am going on pure adrenaline right now and just want to get started. I do know that I must take my time on this most important first part.
CCR
Mouth-Breather
I'm 6' and with the seat high enough the old schwinn frames ride fine. My favorite from schwinn as far as ride goes was the old Cruiser 5's from the 80's, still had the electroforged frames too. No brake brake posts though, derailers will be axle mounted and these had the old Shimano Positron stuff on them, used a solid wire instead of a cable to shift with. Here's a link to one similar to what I had.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1980-schwinn-cruiser-5.69025/
If your not married to the canti frames, the 90's Supreme's seem to fit the bill pretty close. I've seen the same bike labeled as other names in the past too, including a taller frame version as well. Most are listed as having an american BB but most examples look like Euro BB's to me.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1996-schwinn-cruiser-supreme.61388/
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1980-schwinn-cruiser-5.69025/
If your not married to the canti frames, the 90's Supreme's seem to fit the bill pretty close. I've seen the same bike labeled as other names in the past too, including a taller frame version as well. Most are listed as having an american BB but most examples look like Euro BB's to me.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1996-schwinn-cruiser-supreme.61388/
man I am digging the look of that cruiser 5. That is close to what I am looking to do. Just getting started with the need for experience and choosing a frame is quite the challenge for me. Would you happen to know if a 71 typhoon could accommodate a five speed? Where would one go to find the specs on the spread for those older frames. Thank you for your help. Mark
AnySchwinn Cantilever frame earlier than 1977 or so will need to have the frame spread. It is not to difficult to do as long as you spread evenly. There are several different ways to do this. I will explain mine if you want.
This is a Klunker that I did with a 1950's Schwinn Frame.
This is a Klunker that I did with a 1950's Schwinn Frame.
Please do explain the method. If all of those older bikes are bullet tough and will build into anything you want why are some frames so expensive. They all look pretty standard for Schwinn cantilever. Can you give me some guidance on that as well? Thank you
mark
mark
I'm probably not much help in the derailer portion of this conversation, but Im 6'2 and long legged, and the last klunker I played with was a early 70s typhoon, and a taller, layback post from slowriderz was the trick.
I also had to spread the rear a little too for a 26x2.35 tire on a freewheel setup. As for brakes, I used my feet.
I also had to spread the rear a little too for a 26x2.35 tire on a freewheel setup. As for brakes, I used my feet.
CCR
Mouth-Breather
Typhoons were a little different, no brake mount unless it a 3 speed, forks are narrower, not as much clearance for fenders in the rear of the frame. Schwinn called them middleweights. You'll have better tire clearance if you stick to a heavyweight / balloon tire frame. You can make a typhoon work, there's just better options, little more patience for a little less hassle in my opinion.
As far as price, Balloon frames are usually more desirable, every 49-59 canti frame schwinn is a potential Black Phantom that hasn't been restored yet
My advice is wait for a cheap donor to pop up, I've gotten trigger happy before and bought "donors" for $150 - $200 bucks, only to drive by a yard sale or bike shop trade in for less than half of what I just paid.
Do you have specific parts you want to use on it in mind or just an idea of how you want it built ? Might help steer the advice better. It's easy to get a little excited about building a bike for some reason lol
As far as price, Balloon frames are usually more desirable, every 49-59 canti frame schwinn is a potential Black Phantom that hasn't been restored yet
My advice is wait for a cheap donor to pop up, I've gotten trigger happy before and bought "donors" for $150 - $200 bucks, only to drive by a yard sale or bike shop trade in for less than half of what I just paid.
Do you have specific parts you want to use on it in mind or just an idea of how you want it built ? Might help steer the advice better. It's easy to get a little excited about building a bike for some reason lol
A.S.BOLTNUT
He who dies with the most toys ,still dies No Fear
if you decide you want one of those Cruiser 5 frames , i Just happen to have one .
send me a private Message and will talk....
~RafaeL~
send me a private Message and will talk....
~RafaeL~
CCR, I have only an image in my head and little money in my pocket. I do not have any parts. I just thought the frame would be the logical starting point.
TuckTuck, thanks for the info as I have thrown a bid (probably too soon) on a Typhoon. The feet brakes will not work around here too many hills.
When i see something I believe to be the one I will post and ask for opinions and possible pricing.I will try and be patient. God is teaching me that lesson over and over again. Thank you
TuckTuck, thanks for the info as I have thrown a bid (probably too soon) on a Typhoon. The feet brakes will not work around here too many hills.
When i see something I believe to be the one I will post and ask for opinions and possible pricing.I will try and be patient. God is teaching me that lesson over and over again. Thank you
A.S. Boltnut,
How do I send a private message for inquiry?
How do I send a private message for inquiry?
How do I send the private msg
CCR
Mouth-Breather
Hope it comes together for you Mark !
Click on his picture and a box pops, click on "start a conversation". (the old forum called it "private message" and most of us are used to saying "PM")
