Advice on tryke problem.

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Assumeing I can get the shifter/derailer setup fixed. What about the crank? I have read if this is an Austrian built bike the cranks are one of a kind and changing the sprocket or arms is impossible. Hence 4he one piece crank transplant.

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You could probably find an old Raleigh 3 piece crank, but that is going to be even tougher for you since you left BIKES behind you. Now you have to hunt down a Raleigh Tryke and some old 10 speed tricycles for your parts. :crazy::rofl::21:
 
Hey thanks for the info. What scared me is reading about these old sears being Austrian made and cranks arent interchangable. That old 5 speed cassette is working like new BUT I hate that 40t sprocket and short kiddie arms. As for a one speed keeping chain adjusted properly I see these cheap pocket bike tension arm rollers on Ebay. As for keeping the 3 piece crank there is no such thing as a 36t sprocket with long arms. Most single speed trykes are 36/22 and thats really my goal. Lord knows where you could get shifter parts for this dinosaur. I wouldnt even know where to look for a cable.

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The bb axle and crank may or might not be interchangeable with other cottered axles/cranks. But the cups are fine to use with any 3 piece crank so you can change the axle AND arms to a cottered set or a cotterless set. A minor issue to watch for is bb shell width. They vary from 68 mm to 73 mm. If you use a 68mm width axle in a 72mm shell, you run out of threads for the lock ring.

Cables are pretty standard. Local bike shops have them in extra long lengths for tandems or you can get a $10 repair set at wallymart that includes 2 brake & 2 gear cables and all the housings any bike might need. The trike should take a standard rear gear cable length, it's not a stretchhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeddddd trike.

That freewheel is a standard freewheel threaded on to that block that is pinned to the axle. You could change that out if it is too rusty. Spray some wd-40 on it and try to get some in the bearings too. Turn the trike on its side so gravity can help the wd-40 get in to the bearings.

The main axle bearings are the same type that wheel barrels or washing machines use. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Shielded, not sealed. Drip some oil in those too.

I sure agree about too-short crank arms. I changed them out on one of my trikes from 5.5" to 6.5" and that really helped get going from a dead stop. You can't run along side a trike, pushing to get up momentum, then jump on. You run yourself over every time trying that.

Post some more pictures of the underside if you can.

rick
 
Ha Ha you aint gonna find no Raliegh round here. Looks like there's a welding job in the future for the one piece conversion. I am not pulling my hair out over this thing. Sounds to me like the 2ay everyones talking it will be a nightmare if not impossible to fix. I am definitly keeping the welding idea in mind.

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Sounds like you've already resigned yourself to the welding job--your choice. I suppose available resources plays a role in the decision. If that same bike arrived at our co-op, we'd be pedaling around in under an hour. But then, we have a mountain of used parts for substitution.

BTW, if you restore the five speed functionality, is the 36T chainring really so critical?
 
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No the 36t isnt critical its the kiddie short crank arms. I know I ask a lot of questions but I am not famillar with 3 piece cranks at all. There are no coops or bikes shops here in the country. Its Ebay or wait til something falls in your lap which aint gonna happen.All the 3 piece cranks I see have the arm and sprocket made together. I did see one on Ebay that had a star center and a bolt on chainring. If thats what you guys are saying I need there's no way after I see the bids it had. I dont want to weld the bb but its a last resort. All this 3 piece crank stuff is confusing. Besides no one can say IF a modern 3 piece will even fit. With a one piece crank sprocket changes etc. Is a piece of cake. Why anyone would want the headache of a 3 piece is beyond me. In the end that may be the reason the tryke goes to the scrapper.

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Rickpalous I just saw what you wrote. You sound like there is hope. Its just a bike so why does it have to be so hard. IF I convert to single speed all I need is a single freewheel. I have the chain tension issue figured out. If I can get the crank too 36t and longer arms thats what I want. Whatever happens the kiddie crank has got to go.

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Getting a 10-spd der. and a crankset to try wouldn't be too hard, heck I could mail you some bucket clutter. My greatest concern would be wear and rust inside the rear cluster. If you go with welding, you might leave the stock BB and use it to position the one being added.
 
Deorman using that old bb for a guide was exactly what I was thinking. Placing the new one ahead of the old one touching and even welding to it.

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