All Forked Up

[Flying Merlino Brother]

I can add more threads or I can take the bearing cup from another frame and add as a spacer at the bottom of the fork then reinstall the bearing ring (what the bearings ride on).

Any other ideas spacers or learn ho to weld?

This one is going to be a 7 speed rail trail klunker should ther be such a thing.

(PS all these side projects to stay busy but bot work on the step thru build off)

Cheers Ratters.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Do it the right way. Thread the fork further and cut the excess

 

[twojs.bike]

Do it the right way. Thread the fork further and cut the excess

Yes. I recently got an inexpensive tool to thread steerer tubes. Works great.

 

[Wildcat]

A spacer can't be used on the bottom, where the fork crown is. Theres a lip at the bottom where the race must sit. That part will bend because of the stress that area takes.

I've used a spacer at the top but it must have a race that sits on the bearing properly. I used a race normally used on the bottom to make up the difference. But to be able to thread the top nut on like it was made to, is the best way to go. I would add the threads.



Those old Schwinn diamond frames make great klunkers. I built one back in California in the late 80's. An old Varsity with Z rims and Oakley grips along with a band brake I picked up in the Philippines. I rode many miles on the Silver Strand from North Island to Imperial Beach.

 

[Flying Merlino Brother]

Lost a reply so trying again... Thanks for the video and I'll check at work if we have any such size die, we just might.

As part of the adding new threads, mechanically and skill building the best apporach, what are the options for extending the groove, neatly, for the lock washer?

Otherwise I'm going to refer to a post regarding a spacer or bushing for a chopper set up as I'm not understanding the difference in intent.

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/can-i-replace-spacers-for-bushings.119880/

If I remove the race or beaing seat and add a 3/8" thick spacer at the top of the forks/ bottom of the steerer tube, then install the bearing seat again, this approach is still less than ideal? In the Chopper example, how does the relationship between bearing/bushing, head tube and fork work?

 

[Flying Merlino Brother]

Lost a reply so trying again... Thanks for the video and I'll check at work if we have any such size die, we just might.

As part of the adding new threads, mechanically and skill building the best apporach, what are the options for extending the groove, neatly, for the lock washer?

Otherwise I'm going to refer to a post regarding a spacer or bushing for a chopper set up as I'm not understanding the difference in intent.

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/can-i-replace-spacers-for-bushings.119880/

If I remove the race or beaing seat and add a 3/8" thick spacer at the top of the forks/ bottom of the steerer tube, then install the bearing seat again, this approach is still less than ideal? In the Chopper example, how does the relationship between bearing/bushing, head tube and fork work?

From the motorcycle side, theses are spacers for axles, I believe used for forks as well? Sizes abound!

 

[twojs.bike]

The problem with putting spacers below the crown race, is the OD of the steerer tube has an extra couple of mm where the crown race sits. You would somehow have to accommodate for that. Likely possible if you have a lathe, but seems much more complicated than adding threads.

I found a very inexpensive tool for threading steerer tubes. It doesn’t have to be branded as a bicycle tool. Just need the correct threading.

Good question about the groove for the lock washer. I don’t consider the lock washer necessary, but someone else may have a better idea.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

An easy option would be to take it to the Local Bike Shop in your area. They'll usually cut and rethread a fork for less than $20. Best way to figure out how long it to bring the original fork with you so they can measure it. Remember, it can be cut shorter, but not longer, so measure twice. Then measure again