It took this build off to get me moving. Terrible timing, but I don't know that I'll have the right time, so now works.
AMF 'Renegade 5'
- Thread starter CRASH
- Start date
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For some reason my "before" picture deleted. I bought a new fork crown because the old one was too rusty and beat up to make look good. But the crown I bought didn't quite fit, being slightly smaller. So...
Results:
And while I was at the grinder with the fork, I decided to work on the welds.
Those forks are going to take a lot of "body work" to make look good... of which I have no experience. Should I be attacking that metal with heavy grit sand paper to smooth it out?
The spokes came in, so lacing the wheels is next. 8)
Results:
And while I was at the grinder with the fork, I decided to work on the welds.
Those forks are going to take a lot of "body work" to make look good... of which I have no experience. Should I be attacking that metal with heavy grit sand paper to smooth it out?
The spokes came in, so lacing the wheels is next. 8)
Yep, you have your work cut out for you there! In some ways I prefer it as it is, so you can see where it came from and the history of the bike, but maybe that is just my lazy side showing through... :lol:
Luke.
Luke.
Well, I have no history with those forks. I got them with another renegade frame and the look grew on me. The concept is a one-off that was never made, but could have been.
Have you considered adding truss bars to the forks or do you think they will be strong enough as is?
Luke.
Luke.
They've lasted this long, I figure they're good.
WHEEL DAY!
Since I haven't done but one build, you guys don't know how important new spokes are to me. I can't stand the old corroded gray looking spokes, whether you can ride them or not. A restoration build must have bright new spokes to give the bike it's new life. That's my opinion at least. (Rat rods are different, of course)
Let's get started!
New spokes... pretty!
The weird angle of this rear drum brake hub's flanges require these little washers just to make sure the spoke head is seated and won't wiggle through.
First side done.
The extreme diameter of the flanges and the fact this is only a 20x1.75 rim means that for the opposite side spokes I have to take some drastic measures to get them laced. :shock: When I laced Blackjack with this same set up, I thought for sure I was going to snap a spoke. It freaked me out.
The front wheel (20x1-3/8) first side complete. I feel a little dirty because I'm committing the sacrilege of using a Schwinn front hub. I honestly like the way the Schwinn's feel better, and it's a lot shinier than what was standard. Spoiler: My next build, a '69 Sears Spyder 24", will be using a Schwinn rear hub, and maybe a front one if I can find one :shock: )
Laced!
To the truing stand!
The cluster need a bath.
This bugs me about the Shimano 333 freewheels, that you have to disassemble the hub to install/uninstall it because the tool doesn't fit around the axle and cones. Very annoying. But... I got to open up the brake. Very cool!
And cranking it down.
I think my next step is going to be a full mock up to make sure I have all the parts I need, and that they fit and look the way I want them to. So you'll see the completed wheel set in the frame.
Since I haven't done but one build, you guys don't know how important new spokes are to me. I can't stand the old corroded gray looking spokes, whether you can ride them or not. A restoration build must have bright new spokes to give the bike it's new life. That's my opinion at least. (Rat rods are different, of course)
Let's get started!
New spokes... pretty!
The weird angle of this rear drum brake hub's flanges require these little washers just to make sure the spoke head is seated and won't wiggle through.
First side done.
The extreme diameter of the flanges and the fact this is only a 20x1.75 rim means that for the opposite side spokes I have to take some drastic measures to get them laced. :shock: When I laced Blackjack with this same set up, I thought for sure I was going to snap a spoke. It freaked me out.
The front wheel (20x1-3/8) first side complete. I feel a little dirty because I'm committing the sacrilege of using a Schwinn front hub. I honestly like the way the Schwinn's feel better, and it's a lot shinier than what was standard. Spoiler: My next build, a '69 Sears Spyder 24", will be using a Schwinn rear hub, and maybe a front one if I can find one :shock: )
Laced!
To the truing stand!
The cluster need a bath.
This bugs me about the Shimano 333 freewheels, that you have to disassemble the hub to install/uninstall it because the tool doesn't fit around the axle and cones. Very annoying. But... I got to open up the brake. Very cool!
And cranking it down.
I think my next step is going to be a full mock up to make sure I have all the parts I need, and that they fit and look the way I want them to. So you'll see the completed wheel set in the frame.
Seriously nice work CRASH! I didn't realize you were using a drum brake rear with the 5 speed cluster, that is cool! I didn't even realize they existed to be honest! One of these days I will have to give wheel building a try...
Luke.
Luke.
I built wheels when I was a bike mechanic many moons ago. I learned as a teen in a bike shop, how to true, then to de-tension/re-tension, then I learned the basic lacing pattern. Now I have to use a guide to keep me on track, but once laced, truing, keeping it dished... it's all an art that is coming back. But these old steel wheels are tough to get right.
The newer Aluminium ones are easier? Are they more rigid and so less likely to warp?
Luke.
Luke.
Any progress??
Nothing really reportable.
- Fork concept developed and parts collection to implement
- New front tire... needed for fork mock up
- Various other parts collection
- Awaiting new blue seat to match color to.
I've been hammered with school and work, so haven't made much progress except on my 1st project (this contest is #2 and #3)
- Fork concept developed and parts collection to implement
- New front tire... needed for fork mock up
- Various other parts collection
- Awaiting new blue seat to match color to.
I've been hammered with school and work, so haven't made much progress except on my 1st project (this contest is #2 and #3)
I feel ya on the school work! :roll: And the multiple projects too...
I love where this bike is headed.
Ok, finally got some movement going. I started throwing some parts on. Started with the rear wheel to see how things are going to be working together. I'll tell you right now, I'm going to be fighting this build every step of the way. Let's hope I have the endurance. :?
First up... the frame's fender brace tab is in the way of where the chain will travel over the cluster in the higher gears. So, since I'm not going to use a fender brace, that's going to have to come off. Since the chain guard attaches to it, I'm going to have to move that to the outside of the seat stay and cut it in.
I also realized that 5th gear doesn't have enough room for the chain. So, like I did with 'Blackjack' I'll have to put a washer on the inside to give it a little space. This also means that I really don't think I'm going to be able to get away using a coaster chain so I can keep my front sprocket unmolested, so I'm going to have to thin the teeth with a grinder. :shock:
Alright, next issue... the sissy bar. This is going to be a problem, and I'm hoping someone has a good idea. There's a mounting hole behind the derailleur, but it interferes with the derailleur's operation. I could try to get a mounting bracket like I have for the Monster Ray, but this isn't the same kind of sissy, it's flat at the bottom with holes (as you can see).
So I tried it on the axle. But the derailleur interference is worse. It's hard to see, but the derailleur can't move forward. (Yes, I have the sissy on backwards... I realized when I took the picture.
) So I'm stuck, not knowing what I should do about this. Ideas are appreciated.
Moving on, I pieced together a headset and put the fork on. I spent a good 30+ minutes getting the axle mounts straightened out. Then I had the safety tabs on the axle, so I started to work open the mounts to fit them. But my battery died while working them, so I'll have to continue tomorrow. So I threw the front wheel on, and tried two sets of bars out. What do you think?
Set 1)
Set 2)
First up... the frame's fender brace tab is in the way of where the chain will travel over the cluster in the higher gears. So, since I'm not going to use a fender brace, that's going to have to come off. Since the chain guard attaches to it, I'm going to have to move that to the outside of the seat stay and cut it in.
I also realized that 5th gear doesn't have enough room for the chain. So, like I did with 'Blackjack' I'll have to put a washer on the inside to give it a little space. This also means that I really don't think I'm going to be able to get away using a coaster chain so I can keep my front sprocket unmolested, so I'm going to have to thin the teeth with a grinder. :shock:
Alright, next issue... the sissy bar. This is going to be a problem, and I'm hoping someone has a good idea. There's a mounting hole behind the derailleur, but it interferes with the derailleur's operation. I could try to get a mounting bracket like I have for the Monster Ray, but this isn't the same kind of sissy, it's flat at the bottom with holes (as you can see).
So I tried it on the axle. But the derailleur interference is worse. It's hard to see, but the derailleur can't move forward. (Yes, I have the sissy on backwards... I realized when I took the picture.
) So I'm stuck, not knowing what I should do about this. Ideas are appreciated.
Moving on, I pieced together a headset and put the fork on. I spent a good 30+ minutes getting the axle mounts straightened out. Then I had the safety tabs on the axle, so I started to work open the mounts to fit them. But my battery died while working them, so I'll have to continue tomorrow. So I threw the front wheel on, and tried two sets of bars out. What do you think?
Set 1)
Set 2)
No idea on that sissy bar mount other than welded on mounting tabs...
Love the way the bike looks, usually I would always say go the butterfly bars, but the apes look better for some reason, maybe it is just that the grips match the seat?
Luke.
Love the way the bike looks, usually I would always say go the butterfly bars, but the apes look better for some reason, maybe it is just that the grips match the seat?
Luke.
I have blue bar tape. I should have mentioned that.
Welded on tabs. hmmmm I do have some welding to do. Maybe I could put two in the back. Extend it out just a bit.
Welded on tabs. hmmmm I do have some welding to do. Maybe I could put two in the back. Extend it out just a bit.
Extend it in... put the tabs inside the triangle and weld bolt heads in with the threads facing out while your at it.
That would tilt the sissy bar back a bit (cool) and clear the chain too.
That would tilt the sissy bar back a bit (cool) and clear the chain too.
ok, you'll have to explain that a little simpler for me. I'm not following your idea.GuitarlCarl said:
well it doesn't really have to go on the inside of your triangle ... after reading back, your chain guard would still run into it...
But what would probably help you the most is incorporating a bolt into your tab, actually welding the head into (or onto) the tab with the threads pointing out, then you can attach your sissy bar with something cool like acorn nuts...and clear the chain.
But what would probably help you the most is incorporating a bolt into your tab, actually welding the head into (or onto) the tab with the threads pointing out, then you can attach your sissy bar with something cool like acorn nuts...and clear the chain.
