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Any of you Grey Breards on here remember when model car kits was $2.99?
I do.
I do.
Any model builders here?
- Thread starter outskirtscustoms
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outskirtscustoms said:
Just body lifting/lowers, to much trouble to do it on chassie, it woudnt hold up. The RC car have electric engine, and maxes about 50 Mph in topspeed...
Made as amodel of my real car.......
i remember when model kits where $1.50 :wink:
can't get any this new junk for under $20.00 :roll:
haven't built any for about 12 year...
after seeing this thread; i have been,
digging out the stash. :mrgreen:
can't get any this new junk for under $20.00 :roll:
haven't built any for about 12 year...
after seeing this thread; i have been,
digging out the stash. :mrgreen:
outskirtscustoms said:
...I swear I've seen a kit for the Commandos...I'd grab one myself I've had 4 of them over the years...
Anybody ever build Model Airplanes and hang them from the ceiling?
I got a couple of I Still gotta build.
A WW1 Fokker Dr.1 Tri Wing is one...RED BARON
Im lost on how to paint it ...Flying Circus colors like some of them or Original...
LOLA was the name of one Flying Circus trip'...
The other one is a Revell Messa-Schitzel plane kit.
I got a couple of I Still gotta build.
A WW1 Fokker Dr.1 Tri Wing is one...RED BARON
Im lost on how to paint it ...Flying Circus colors like some of them or Original...
LOLA was the name of one Flying Circus trip'...
The other one is a Revell Messa-Schitzel plane kit.
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MagicRat said:
Yeah, even though I have never really used either since I was like 13 :lol: Good old dollar store super glue (dries faster, holds better, and the longer dispense tube makes it easy to get into tight spaces...Not to mention 4 tubes for a buck) And I normally use Duplicolor paint to get an authentic looking finish. For small parts I just take the lid off the can and spray a little in the cap and dip my brush in it. If you want a model car finish use model car paint if you want it to look like a real car use real car paint. :mrgreen:
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Also thought I'd share, I was looking around the Revell site and stumbled across this thing called "Make and take" kits. Basically what it is is you can buy a particular model and you get one complete packaged model and 24 bagged models (all the same) at a discounted price. (mainly for events and such and I'm not sure how discounted the price is) But some vehicles like the '32 ford coupe that can be built a million different ways would be cool to get 25 of them and just go to town. Or make a car show diorama and do up 25 of your favorite muscle car, each differently. Just a thought. From what I gather they are all skill 1 but if you write to them they may offer higher skill levels.
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MagicRat said:
Hmmm, didn't know that, I have always used the duplicolor spray cans and have never had any problems.
...duplicolor primer decanted and sprayed thru an airbrush is one one the best ways to protect the virgin plastic from the aggressive automotive paints, altho i have had some success spraying it right from the can...just use LIGHT coats so you don't bury your details...keep in mind lacquers( and most correctly reduced automotive urethanes ) are by nature thinner in consistency and usually require multiple coats to cover well so are IMO better to show off crisp detailing, but are more likely to negatively affect the model ( craze old paint or distort the plastic )than enamels
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I normally have three methods of painting:
Background cars: I do this with ones that I don't particularly care about that I want to look like a regular old car. AKA "Background car" Basically just trimming the imperfections from the body, clean, and spray. 1 primer, 3 color. Then do one wet-sanding after the final color coat is down.
Rat style: As before I trim, clean and spray. I do NOT wet sand it. I spray it with a grey primer, red primer, black primer, or combination thereof. Then the color I want the car to be. Then sand through to create the look I am after starting with the broad surfaces that would be most exposed to the elements such as roof, top of hood, top of trunk, and tops of fenders. I also apply a thin layer of glue to a few key spots where rust may be and sprinkle cinnamon on my hand and blow it over the car lightly. after it dries for 24 hours I take a brush and brush off the excess.
Show Stopper: this method is for ones I really want to stand out. I start by sanding any imperfections off with a bit of fine grit sandpaper. (Small piece as not to harm anything else in the process) Then I wash the body in a mild soap, Rinse, wash my hands in Dawn dish soap to remove any excess oils from my hands that may transfer to the body, Then I give the body a coat of primer, wet sand with fine grit in the sink, another coat of primer, wet sand again, then 5-8 thin coats of Duplicolor, wet sanding after the 3rd or 4th and again after the final coat, then 3-5 thin coats of clear and a final wet sanding. This givea a deep rich color that is why I call this the show stopper method.
Background cars: I do this with ones that I don't particularly care about that I want to look like a regular old car. AKA "Background car" Basically just trimming the imperfections from the body, clean, and spray. 1 primer, 3 color. Then do one wet-sanding after the final color coat is down.
Rat style: As before I trim, clean and spray. I do NOT wet sand it. I spray it with a grey primer, red primer, black primer, or combination thereof. Then the color I want the car to be. Then sand through to create the look I am after starting with the broad surfaces that would be most exposed to the elements such as roof, top of hood, top of trunk, and tops of fenders. I also apply a thin layer of glue to a few key spots where rust may be and sprinkle cinnamon on my hand and blow it over the car lightly. after it dries for 24 hours I take a brush and brush off the excess.
Show Stopper: this method is for ones I really want to stand out. I start by sanding any imperfections off with a bit of fine grit sandpaper. (Small piece as not to harm anything else in the process) Then I wash the body in a mild soap, Rinse, wash my hands in Dawn dish soap to remove any excess oils from my hands that may transfer to the body, Then I give the body a coat of primer, wet sand with fine grit in the sink, another coat of primer, wet sand again, then 5-8 thin coats of Duplicolor, wet sanding after the 3rd or 4th and again after the final coat, then 3-5 thin coats of clear and a final wet sanding. This givea a deep rich color that is why I call this the show stopper method.
I've been building as long as I can remember. I did this one last year for the 4-H Fair. 1/18 Crown Vic. It Didn't come out the greatest but it was okay. I'll have to find the pics of my VW Bug I did for this year and post them. I've already started on my car for next year: 1965 Mustang coupe being built to represent what I want mine to look like when it's finished.
I know about the glue on this one.....Not sure how I got too much on the part but I did..... :roll:
I know about the glue on this one.....Not sure how I got too much on the part but I did..... :roll:
Found these too...
Aaron built this tractor for the 4-H Toy Tractor Pulling class this year. Runs on a stock 540 motor. This was my toy tractor when I was his age. He stripped this one all the way down and rebuilt it as you see here. This was only the second time he spray painted anything. This is after the pull was finished so it doesnt look as nice as it did before it started.
I did this one.....
This was my brother's toy when I was Aaron's age. It was stripped and rebuilt to this:
Aaron built this tractor for the 4-H Toy Tractor Pulling class this year. Runs on a stock 540 motor. This was my toy tractor when I was his age. He stripped this one all the way down and rebuilt it as you see here. This was only the second time he spray painted anything. This is after the pull was finished so it doesnt look as nice as it did before it started.
I did this one.....
This was my brother's toy when I was Aaron's age. It was stripped and rebuilt to this:
...r/c tractor pulling? that's AWESOME
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Rc tractor pulling, now that is awesome. Do they run on dry ground or down n dirty in the mud like the big boys?
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Anyone else like to mess with a model after it is "Finished"? I never glue the body to the frame or interior tub so I can take them back apart and add fine details as I see them. My Chevelle and Model A were looking a little too much like models so I thought why doesn't the trunk open? Well they do now. :mrgreen: I also cut up an old T-shirt and made a trunk carpet for it to add a touch of realism.
PS: The wheels on the model A are for mock up I will probably change them later.
old t-shirt works great for carpet
Then to hinge the trunk I cut the edge at a 45 degree angle and touch up the paint and glue a cut piece of playing card to the underside.
Did the same for the model A but still need to finish the trunk carpet
I was getting sick of waiting so I went ahead and painted my Porsche green instead of black
Engine is super detailed
Also here's a few that were done years ago when I was in my indy car phase
PS: The wheels on the model A are for mock up I will probably change them later.
old t-shirt works great for carpet
Then to hinge the trunk I cut the edge at a 45 degree angle and touch up the paint and glue a cut piece of playing card to the underside.
Did the same for the model A but still need to finish the trunk carpet
I was getting sick of waiting so I went ahead and painted my Porsche green instead of black
Engine is super detailed
Also here's a few that were done years ago when I was in my indy car phase
It's not real R/C like some of the gas pullers you can see on YouTube. Power comes from a 12v car battery on a sled that the tractor is pulling. The tractors have a 120v style plug on the rear that plug into the battery for power. The 4-Her then guides the tractor along the track which is a custom built wooden table top.outskirtscustoms said:
