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I polished up the 3 speed Bendix Torpedo hub and lubed it with 3in1oil...still waiting on cables from Europe so I’m stuck in high gear. Got to get that all sorted before I can strip the frame.

Man popping a wheelie on the wheelie bars at speed in high gear is sure interesting. Lots of laughs. Ended up bending the threaded bolt so I need to find a stronger anchor for the inline wheels. Problem is the bearings are for a 6mm shaft. Waaay too thin for the strength needed. Hope to get my handlebars narrowed today.
I cut a 4” section out of the bars for more V (consummate v’s...CONSUMMATE) for a bit of an hourglass look between the bars & forks. Got a nice welding refresher from my Dad.

Temporarily using the black Springer trusses on the wheelie bar while I find the right hardware so I can use the curved springer forks. The black seat and bars are starting to grow on me.
Thanks! Now I have to figure out grips. Wrap was an idea, or something uniform across most of the bars. I was considering black torpedoes on the ends and black foam from there up to where the bars turns down in the center. I’d like mirrors on long stalks mounted about there. That and a usable headlight...And not sure about going with this or the stock stem...
More reinventing the wheelie, bar. I think the rear bars are the most solid and look best like this delta. It’s a kammback, lol...good for the ol drag coefficient.
Works nicely fishtailed out...wide, so you can just sit back on them on level ground & chill in confidence while intimidating your opponent before the big afternoon race to the end of the block.

You could strap a duffel to the back without hitting the tire.
Wheelie bars are done...whale tail style! Cut some sissy bar material to go over the threaded rod for strength.

E6E90D84-22E3-4D6C-BC0E-50D1A398364A.jpeg wheel is too far to the right. I can adjust the play in the wheelie wheels...everything is tight and you can pick up the bike from these bars.

Grab your throwback board & go!

Hard to see in pics how much wider the very rear flares out. The rear bar with the wheels is 1.5 inches wider than the stabilizer bar the skateboard is resting on. Using the spring perch under the seat pan for strength. Passed the stress test!
I ordered another shift tired of being stuck in 3rd!
Cable arrived and now it shifts! Wheelie gear is super fun, 2nd is a good all around BMX style gear & third is bookin. The cable needs to be super much so that it pulled the shifter back. I might make a tank plate like the Tornado so the shifter always stays in the same spot. Does anyone know how to pull the T knob off a 333 without obliterating it? I’d like to swap that out with the Sachs Super Shifter knob.
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Always a chance knob will break..
Here how I have taken them off :
Small adjustable wrench; closed to the sides of the shifter under the handle...then, tap on the other side of the wrench upward to slowly lift handle.
Hope this helps.
Always a chance knob will break..
Here how I have taken them off :
Small adjustable wrench; closed to the sides of the shifter under the handle...then, tap on the other side of the wrench upward to slowly lift handle.
Hope this helps.
Thanks! I did some sleuthing and one thing that kept popping up was to boil them to loosen the glue. I figured why risk it and just went with a Sears Screamer repop knob. An adapter plus a shift knob would have ultimately cost me more. I can sell the 333shifter.

So now I just have to cut the tank plate, get the decals, buy the rest of the paint, Headlight, taillights and grips, tear it all apart and turn it all into a done bike...aka all the actual work...muhahaha!
Had to run the fork under hot water & use a putty knife to get the bottom race off...glad I found that tip! Used my tuner and found the fork strikes G# with a low D# underneath...just missing the B#...maybe after new paint. Bike is all in pieces...about to get stripped, sanded and reborn. I have no small sense of remorse in seeing 46 years of battle scars erased to make space for new ones. I wonder where it has been, seen or lived. It’s about Go time.
Did they seriously nerf Aircraft paint remover? I distinctly recall my Mom using this stuff to remove 4 layers of paint & primer down to the bare metal on her old 912. I’ve used it in the past to remove every bit of paint on all kinds of stuff. Now it has taken two days, most of a can and multiple applications & I’m still not getting far at all. I should have had loose paint within an hour. It also is now attracting tons of ants. What else is everyone using?
Non-methylene chloride is a joke! Miss the old formula :cry: The old stripper is still available on ebay, exorbitant costs.

I went to a 7 amp 2200rpm Dewalt drill with a heavy wire wheel.
Yeah, I took a year off from stripping and it’s just not the same game lol. I just figured out I can’t even get the old stuff. I know I tossed a can of the old stuff when I moved. This was supposed to be the easy part. It would have been sooo much better to just paint over the bike instead of ever using this crap. I almost did that halfway to preserve the battle scars then said naaah, just do it the right way. Seriously, all this got me was ants and a frame that now looks burned. ANTS! Dear companies of the world, when they take away the sole active ingredient your product is derived around please rename your product. Call it “crap that just doesn’t work like it used to” or name it after your ex or something.
Used this ..... on a 72'' Fastback. Removed the paint way faster. Wasted time an money with chem stripper. I was told the new stuff sucked, but it was less effective than the reviews! Mechanical from now on.
View attachment 144159
Yeah, I've tried using CitriStrip on paint before, and while it kind of works, it's a long, tiring, messy process. More often than not, a set of brass wire brush wheels and a drill get the job done a lot more efficiently. If there's a chance of lead in the paint, I just wear a mask while I work and clean up after myself the best I can.

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