Arctic beast

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Nor-Cal
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Guess I might have voided the warranty a bit...

I put my Beast on a weight gain plan and stretched it out about 12 inches (305mm).
Back in June of this year I bought a green Mongoose beast with the intention of cutting it up and making some changes. For a while the only change that I made was swapping the bars & Stem off of a Genesis 32" for some cruiser style. That worked out to be too much fun and I ended up riding the Beast and never got busy changing anything else.

About the beginning of August I bought another red Beast for a friend and a blue Beast for my growing collection. This freed me up to chop up some green steel and see what I could come up with. Originally I had wanted to bust out a cantilever frame as I'm liking cruisers a lot these days. I bought a tubing roller, but never put it to use. I saw a few pieces of 1-1/2" (38mm) diameter conduit laying around on one of my job sites that had some interesting bends and scooped them up for possible use.

Once the planets lined up and the breeze was just right - out came the band saw and the mighty Beast met with some sharp teeth shredding it to a few segments. I was now free to start re-creating.

I better sneak a few pics in before carrying on...
Set_stretch.jpg

Prelim_layout.jpg


Well, I know there are much better ways to do this...
But here is my "Budget frame jig" - it looks a lot like an uneven concrete patio doesn't it?
Budget_frame_jig.jpg


If I dug around a little, I could come up with clamps, rules, calipers, lasers, all sorts of things that could be useful for such an endeavor.
None of that though... cut, eyeball, tack, adjust, eyeball, break it apart, eyeball, tack, adjust... I did measure a couple of rough dimensions to set the seat to furthest pedal stroke. The rest sort of fell into place fitting the bends of the scraps from the job site.

Eventually it ended up back on 2 wheels
Back_on_2_wheels.jpg

Getting_closer.jpg


Honestly, there were moments that I struggled with and the frame had twists and turns that would have had me stuck riding in circles!
I ended up offsetting the rear triangle from the crank center line by about 1/4" (6.3mm) in hopes of a future gearing addition. For now I'm running an offset 20T rear gear.

So with no metal prep, ugly welds, and a conveniently located can of spray paint, the Beast took on its new color - Heirloom white - Satin.
I just wanted something to unify the bike in one color and slow down any rust while I gave it a ride or tow to see how things worked out.

Looking_at_you.jpg

Maybe_the_blue_seat.jpg


I had a little issue with the chain line and ended up adding a roller from an old derailleur that the guy at my LBS gave me when I bought the offset gear. I suppose this would have been avoided with some plans, but it worked out to just need a little clearance over the chain stay. Anyway, I've had way too much fun riding the stretched Beast around for the last couple months to make many further refinements. It now sports the saddle off of the Genesis 32" and some W-i-d-e cruiser bars. The stretch makes for some great cruising and miles of smiles.

I've given thought to tightening up the rear triangle and cleaning up the chain line to lose the roller. Maybe take 2" (50mm) out of the overall stretch, but it's not meant for anything but riding and it's been great so far. Besides - I still have the blue one to cut up once it comes out of the box...

So here she is - The Arctic Beast in the wild
In_the_wild.jpg
 
Personally I'd just re-adjust the chain stays down a bit to better follow the line from the crank back effectively killing two birds with one stone, one fixing the chain line and two better flow to the frame.
 
blown240 said:
That looks pretty cool.

Did you use electrical conduit? How does it weld?

The new tubes are indeed 1-1/2" EMT conduit.
Please make sure you take safety precautions and strip the galvanized surfaces inside and out before welding. Other than that, the wall thickness was workable with a flux core MIG for some down and dirty joints. My welds are pretty ugly on parts of this one as I really didn't cope the joints - just got 'em close with a straight cut on the sides.
I have built a few gate frames at work over the years usually with heavier walled tubing. The conduit was scrap and I thought why not try it. So far it has held up fine with 350 lbs of rider bashing curbs, traffic islands, and parking space bumpers.

So far the only metal failure has been the original brake strap snapping on an abrupt stop...
Brake_strap.jpg


The strap has now been replaced with a 2-hole conduit strap from the electrical hardware aisle - no pic of that yet.

outskirtscustoms said:
Personally I'd just re-adjust the chain stays down a bit to better follow the line from the crank back effectively killing two birds with one stone, one fixing the chain line and two better flow to the frame.

Every time that I sit and look at it I think the same thing about the chain stays... for a first time cutting up a frame, I just kept the rear triangle to get it rolling again. If I jump back in on this one I'd like to change up the dropout shape some too...

Thanks for checking it out!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top