I've tried to patch one of my kids' tubes. I let the sucker sit all night. This morning I pump it up and the patch let go. Is the glue crap? Are we getting chinese rubber cement now and it just doesn't work?
frustrating.
frustrating.
Are modern patch kits crap?
- Thread starter CRASH
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
CCR
Mouth-Breather
I use park and hi-top and they work. you almost have to let the cement air dry first until its tacky before you smack a patch on. I've had some that just dont work but i think it had more to do with the conditions (dirty/cold)
Yep, crap. I used 2 or 3 different kinds, none held up. I finally bought a kit from the bike shop that has held up.
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2011
- Messages
- 250
- Reaction score
- 25
Back in the day I worked at a service station and most tires we fixed had tubes. When we patched tubes, the tube was sanded and the rubber cement was applied to the patch and tube and then set on fire. Blow the fire out after a second or two and place the patch on the tube. Burnish the patch with a roller and you were done.
This old method should work on bike tubes although I haven't done it in years.
This old method should work on bike tubes although I haven't done it in years.
I think next time I'm at my LBS I'll pick up a kit. I'm ebarassed to say where I got this one. harbor frieght So I deserve what I got I suppose. I'm got two tubes out there slathered in the cement right now. I'll give them a good long while to dry this time. Hopefully 3rd time is a charm.
I remember YEARS ago patching a tube on the side of the road, and it holding air as soon as I put it back in the tire. crazy. I blame the EPA.
I remember YEARS ago patching a tube on the side of the road, and it holding air as soon as I put it back in the tire. crazy. I blame the EPA.
I just tried this and burned my eyebrows off.menzorro said:
:mrgreen:
tip top are good, and camel if you cam find em..
the best were the hot patches stuck to the tin incendiary device with the little screw press thingy that came with them. they would put off a huge cloud of smoke! and then it was done, and they ALWAYS worked..
I am sure the EPA killed those... :roll:
EDIT:
apparently you can still get em in SA... anyone live near the border?... :lol:
http://www.camel.com.co/index_eng.html
the best were the hot patches stuck to the tin incendiary device with the little screw press thingy that came with them. they would put off a huge cloud of smoke! and then it was done, and they ALWAYS worked..
I am sure the EPA killed those... :roll:
EDIT:
apparently you can still get em in SA... anyone live near the border?... :lol:
http://www.camel.com.co/index_eng.html
no, thats a game that you play at the casino
The scary part is that they were just finding a marketable use for chemicals already at the factory, likely in the production of the cigs. I hope Marlboro never made patch kits :lol:CCR said:scrumblero said:
Did somebody mention nicotine patches ???
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2011
- Messages
- 250
- Reaction score
- 25
I've got a real old box of Monkey Grip patches that still work good but I had to get some new rubber cement. Have they been changed and made cheaper these days ?
The most important thing is the tube prep for a good long lasting patch. To me it seems some of the tubes resist the glue more than the glue being poorer quality. Rubber compounds have changed over the years.
The most important thing is the tube prep for a good long lasting patch. To me it seems some of the tubes resist the glue more than the glue being poorer quality. Rubber compounds have changed over the years.
I just use the patch kits they carry at the cash register at the LBS or Performance Bikes, never had a problem unless they got too old (patches get hard to remove from foil). Try to get new ones at least once a year.
I don't buy new tubes for flip bikes if I can help it. I don't flip bikes a lot, but I'm going to sell my son's old one, and he decided to ride through a thorn field.
I am old enough to remember using the patches that you had to set on fire...... more than that, I shall not say. :|
I prefer the Rema patch kits--they come in a pea-green box.
First thing I would ask is, did you let the glue dry completely before applying the patch? A lot of people don't know that. You do not put the patch on when the glue is still wet.
,,,,,
With bike patch rubber cement, you apply the glue to the TUBE and then you wait until it dries, and THEN you stick the patch onto the dried glue. ....And be sure you have it in the right spot over the hole, because the moment it touches the dried cement, it's gonna stick with the force of God. It ain't coming off again.... If the glue is working like it should, you will not be able to peel a crooked patch off and re-stick it again. If you missed the hole, then you just gotta try again with another patch halfway over the first one.
Second thing is, glue gets old fast. Life span of a tube is ~1-year if unopened, and only maybe 3 months after it is opened once. The volatile stuff evaporates out and it looks the same but just doesn't stick as hard.
I prefer the Rema patch kits--they come in a pea-green box.
First thing I would ask is, did you let the glue dry completely before applying the patch? A lot of people don't know that. You do not put the patch on when the glue is still wet.
,,,,,
With bike patch rubber cement, you apply the glue to the TUBE and then you wait until it dries, and THEN you stick the patch onto the dried glue. ....And be sure you have it in the right spot over the hole, because the moment it touches the dried cement, it's gonna stick with the force of God. It ain't coming off again.... If the glue is working like it should, you will not be able to peel a crooked patch off and re-stick it again. If you missed the hole, then you just gotta try again with another patch halfway over the first one.
Second thing is, glue gets old fast. Life span of a tube is ~1-year if unopened, and only maybe 3 months after it is opened once. The volatile stuff evaporates out and it looks the same but just doesn't stick as hard.
You can still buy cans on Rubber Solvent Cement (self vulcanizing glue) at good auto parts stores. You can also buy boxes of patches or just cut up old tubes to make your own. Several coast of glue on both sides and left to tack up works great.
I've done some reading on bikeforums in the mechanic's section.
Some there say that you have to scuff the tube really good and wipe down with alcohol to remove the mold release the was put on the tube when it was manufactured.
Not sure how accurate that is, but I always scuff the tube, apply rubber cement, and then scrape it off while it is still wet with a knife blade to clean the area.
That's what my dad taught me, and he had a Gulf filling station in the old days when all auto tires had tubes.
After it is clean apply the cement and patch as everyone else has said.
Some there say that you have to scuff the tube really good and wipe down with alcohol to remove the mold release the was put on the tube when it was manufactured.
Not sure how accurate that is, but I always scuff the tube, apply rubber cement, and then scrape it off while it is still wet with a knife blade to clean the area.
That's what my dad taught me, and he had a Gulf filling station in the old days when all auto tires had tubes.
After it is clean apply the cement and patch as everyone else has said.
