My bike is a 26", but I'm not sure about the head tube, I can probably look at that soon. The only issue I have right now is that my fender brackets attach to 2 holes on the bottom of the fork, but other forks dont have them.
Are springer front ends worth it?
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I'm thinking more 1". You want to measure the inside of the tube.
You can make brackets for fenders. When I converted a full suspension mountain bike to a cruiser, I made brackets out of small pieces of aluminum for the outside where the axle nuts go on, sort of like a washer with an extension with a hole for the fender stays. On a springer, depending on the type, you may be able to do either something similar or make a new linkage between the stationary and moving fork parts that incorporate holes for the fender stays.
You can make brackets for fenders. When I converted a full suspension mountain bike to a cruiser, I made brackets out of small pieces of aluminum for the outside where the axle nuts go on, sort of like a washer with an extension with a hole for the fender stays. On a springer, depending on the type, you may be able to do either something similar or make a new linkage between the stationary and moving fork parts that incorporate holes for the fender stays.
I had the springer for a few days, but I didn't like it anymore. I liked the look and suspension. But the next day it got a lot more noisy than the first time, it rattled a lot with my fender, and it damaged the fender a little bit too. So I decided to go with the original fork it had.
A bend or impression on the fender to accommodate the forward rod similar to the impression at the fork would eliminate your rattle. A hunk of clear tube where they rub may shield the rattle as well. I agree with keeping the fender, it's just extra work to get them right. Most people just take them off. You will need to be creative to keep both.
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I wonder if softer mounting points might help, such as leather or rubber fender washers (like faucet washers). The fender on the style of springer shown, were attached to both the axle (moving with the wheel) and to the fork-yoke (more like on fixed side of pivot bolt). Soft attachments may allow more movement or give, but also more noise and squeaks.
Sunlite may sell fenders with side notches for the springer rods, (or you might try to bend the ones you already have). Then there are also shorty fenders (which do not have braces to attach).
Sunlite may sell fenders with side notches for the springer rods, (or you might try to bend the ones you already have). Then there are also shorty fenders (which do not have braces to attach).
The issue is based on the articulation of the springer on two points; namely, the fender braces and the attachment point below the steering tube: The fender point below the steering point is stationary, but the fender braces articulate around the springer’s fulcrum.
There are two simple resolutions: 1 you can remove the fender braces at the axle and attach the fender directly onto the steering tube; or 2 you can attach the fender braces to the axle but you’ll need to leave some room between the fender and the steering tube in order to allow for geometric travel of the fender around the springer’s fulcrum.
If you go with option 1 you will need sufficient room between the fender and wheel in order to keep them from interfering with each other during suspension rebound.
Oh, and yes, springer front ends are worth it!
There are two simple resolutions: 1 you can remove the fender braces at the axle and attach the fender directly onto the steering tube; or 2 you can attach the fender braces to the axle but you’ll need to leave some room between the fender and the steering tube in order to allow for geometric travel of the fender around the springer’s fulcrum.
If you go with option 1 you will need sufficient room between the fender and wheel in order to keep them from interfering with each other during suspension rebound.
Oh, and yes, springer front ends are worth it!
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The "L" bracket on the fender might have a slotted hole, which may allow a lower mounting of the fender.
Another Option might be to attach the fender with the L-bracket in front of the fork tube, instead of the rear (but it might not look as nice). Either way there would still be stresses on the L-bracket.
Another Option might be to attach the fender with the L-bracket in front of the fork tube, instead of the rear (but it might not look as nice). Either way there would still be stresses on the L-bracket.
