Are track dropouts necessary on a fixed gear?

[us56456712]

I am building a fixed gear bike for the WBO. The existing frame has the standard vintage 1960s type of road bike dropouts. I am wondering if the rear wheel will stay straight in there with the fixed gear? I started fabricating up a set of track style dropouts but I would rather not have to finish and weld them in if the standard dropouts will work. Such a hassle grinding, cutting, welding and setting up my jig in the cold, best all to be avoided, if possible. Thanks in advance for anyone with experience with this.

 

[Nocash18]

I'm assuming "standard vintage road bike dropouts" means you have some room to move the wheel back and forth in the dropouts? As long as you have some play for movement, you can run a SS or fixed. It doesn't have to be horizontal dropouts.

If you're worried about it slipping, that concern isn't unfounded. I heard of old roadie conversions slipping under all the torque, but it's never happened to me. I'm pretty sure the only wheels that slip are cheap-o's that didn't get put on tight enough to begin with.

As long as you have room to slide the wheel in the dropouts to tension the chain AND a nice wheel with some ridged cones and nuts to grip on the frame, you'll be fine.

I actually just built my wife her 3rd bike using an old nishiki. Same scenario and method, and it turned out good.

 

[Nocash18]

There's the nishiki and my fixed gear behind it, being used as a laundry rack. Our speed machines sleep in our room.

 

[us56456712]

I'm assuming "standard vintage road bike dropouts" means you have some room to move the wheel back and forth in the dropouts? As long as you have some play for movement, you can run a SS or fixed. It doesn't have to be horizontal dropouts.

If you're worried about it slipping, that concern isn't unfounded. I heard of old roadie conversions slipping under all the torque, but it's never happened to me. I'm pretty sure the only wheels that slip are cheap-o's that didn't get put on tight enough to begin with.

As long as you have room to slide the wheel in the dropouts to tension the chain AND a nice wheel with some ridged cones and nuts to grip on the frame, you'll be fine.

I actually just built my wife her 3rd bike using an old nishiki. Same scenario and method, and it turned out good.

Thanks for the answer. I am worried about slipping, but I will give it a try stock. My coaster brake klunkers have bent a lot of the vintage chain adjustment bolts found on pre war bikes. I have put track chain tensioners on them. It has to be a good CNC one as the cheap ones bend right away. It seemed like I might have a similar issue with fixed gear but If I don't have to modify it that is great. I replaced road drop outs for homemade track ones once before and didn't look forward to doing it again.

 

[Duchess]

Were it me, if I had fender mounts on the drop outs like that Nishiki, I'd run a piece of steel from that mount to the end of the axle with an extra nut to hold it on. It doesn't have to be super tight, so the axle hole can be something like a slot (to allow for some tension adjustment without having to make a new set every time the tension requires a change of seat in the drop outs), it's just some added insurance so that, in case the axle breaks loose, it's even less likely to break free of the drop outs.

 

[Nocash18]

Were it me, if I had fender mounts on the drop outs like that Nishiki, I'd run a piece of steel from that mount to the end of the axle with an extra nut to hold it on. It doesn't have to be super tight, so the axle hole can be something like a slot (to allow for some tension adjustment without having to make a new set every time the tension requires a change of seat in the drop outs), it's just some added insurance so that, in case the axle breaks loose, it's even less likely to break free of the drop outs.

That's pretty genius. I know I've seen some type of proprietary washer that could be made into some type of axle retainer. Or maybe just grind down some large diameter washers into little tear drops with the original hole being the hole the axle goes through.

 

[us56456712]

That's pretty genius. I know I've seen some type of proprietary washer that could be made into some type of axle retainer. Or maybe just grind down some large diameter washers into little tear drops with the original hole being the hole the axle goes through.

I got the concept but I am not sure I understand how it could be adjusted? My frame has half circle fender mounts right behind the axle, not above. It might be possible to put track chain tensioners on the back of the round mount. Don't know how the bolt would work as it would bind on the frame. Perhaps welding on an offset tab or a small piece of pipe. It sure would be easier that fabricating and welding on a track dropout. I'll have to think about your idea. Thanks

 

[Nocash18]

I got the concept but I am not sure I understand how it could be adjusted?

No adjustment. It would just add some piece of mind to the strength.

But on the subject, maybe slot the smaller rack holes on the washer? No screw tension, but then you could have more freedom of wheel placement and fine adjustments.

 

[Duchess]

But, in that case, you'd be using an M5 bolt for tension, which would be a lot weaker a hold than the M10 or M14 or whatever it is on the axle. IMO, you'd want the maximum strength available.

 

[Nocash18]

But, in that case, you'd be using an M5 bolt for tension, which would be a lot weaker a hold than the M10 or M14 or whatever it is on the axle. IMO, you'd want the maximum strength available.

Well there is probably a reason you don't see stuff like that done very often. I just rode the nishiki and I've got no concern of any slipping, bending or breaking. Very fun ride as well. The wife is happy.

 

[Duchess]

I'm not saying it's a death trap, just what I would do, but I'm a weird mix of risk-taker and paranoid. I think it would only be a real concern if the bike didn't have brakes.

 

[us56456712]

Well there is probably a reason you don't see stuff like that done very often. I just rode the nishiki and I've got no concern of any slipping, bending or breaking. Very fun ride as well. The wife is happy.

I am going to try it like you do. It should work for me too.

 

[Bicycle808]

There are literally zillions of road-to fixed conversions out there; you don't need rear-entry track ends to run fixed... just don't try to do it with a q/r axle or Allen skewers; standard track nuts would do it. (I prefer the Problem Solvers type, with the captured washers.) If the wheel slips, it might be b/c you didn't torque'm down enough, or you might have issues with the dropouts being damaged or misaligned....

 

[deorman]

Maybe just put a nut/bolt and star washers in the dropout in front of the axle for added grip.

 

[GTV]

I was concerned about the same thing. You do not want the hub to slip out of the drop outs on a fixed gear. I used a pair of Surly "Hurdy Gurdy's" for insurance on my forward drop outs. It hasn't budged.

 

[Dale Alan]

I was concerned about the same thing. You do not want the hub to slip out of the drop outs on a fixed gear. I used a pair of Surly "Hurdy Gurdy's" for insurance on my forward drop outs. It hasn't budged.

Learned something new,thanks for the posting.They look like a great product.