Atkins Safari and something called a King Sting?

[Whitfield]

I plan on it to be a rider. Can't change my wish list this late in the season. But if the ourys don't work out I have a few other places to call them home.

Any suggestions on chrome cleaning. I need to soak the forks. BMX museum says Home Depot CLR will work. But i don;t have a good measure on how much CLR to water or how long.

FOrks have mild peppering even after a good toothpaste polish.

 

[Rat Rod]

If this were my bike... :mrgreen:

1. I would soak everything down with Simple Green and let it sit for 10 minutes and then wash it all down with dish soap and water.
2. I would then use Turtle Wax clear coat safe rubbing compound followed up by some McGuire's gold wax.
3. On the chrome I would first try some #0000 steel wool and WD-40. Test a spot to make sure it doesn't haze the chrome first...avoid the decals too.

BTW...when you ride it, you will then have shiny side rims because the gold anodizing wears off fast with brake pads.

That's the basic detailing procedure I took with my Sidewinder.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/ratrodbikes/sidewinder/1600/DSC_0270.jpg

 

[Whitfield]

If this were my bike... :mrgreen:

1. I would soak everything down with Simple Green and let it sit for 10 minutes and then wash it all down with dish soap and water.
2. I would then use Turtle Wax clear coat safe rubbing compound followed up by some McGuire's gold wax.
3. On the chrome I would first try some #0000 steel wool and WD-40. Test a spot to make sure it doesn't haze the chrome first...avoid the decals too.

BTW...when you ride it, you will then have shiny side rims because the gold anodizing wears off fast with brake pads.

That's the basic detailing procedure I took with my Sidewinder.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m130/ratrodbikes/sidewinder/1600/DSC_0270.jpg

Thanks Rat Rod!
Home after dark and temps around freezing, so far my process (confined the the living room) has been...
1. cleaned with light oil and shop rags
2. generic windex
3. pledge furniture polish (didn't get the results I expected)
4. Turtle wax polish
5. never dull paste wax

I'll try to find some 0000 steel wool. (Last time my search for brass wool was unsucessful)

 

[Rat Rod]

You've got a bathtub don't ya? :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[outskirtscustoms]

You've got a bathtub don't ya? :lol: :lol: :lol:

I've done that a few times.

 

[Whitfield]

Bath tube ~ yes... Why didn't I think of that.

not never dull above ~ wax is new finsih. I've tried never dull on the forks but it doesn't polish the rust.

 

[outskirtscustoms]

Bath tube ~ yes... Why didn't I think of that.

not never dull above ~ wax is new finsih. I've tried never dull on the forks but it doesn't polish the rust.

Oxalic Acid or white vinegar will take care of the rust.

 

[yoothgeye]

I'll try to find some 0000 steel wool. (Last time my search for brass wool was unsucessful)

0000 steel wool should be easy to find at your Home Depot, the guy who had the bike said he had seen 00000 steel wool before, it's worth looking for, but the 0000 steel wool should be fine, I wouldn't hold my breath on the brass wool. I buy copper scrubbers (found in dish cleaning supplies) but they are not fine, very coarse, but I've had good luck with them using WD-40, they last alot longer than steel wool too.

 

[deorman]

Brillo.

 

[Whitfield]

Oxcylic acid bath (24 hrs) / Never Dull polish / Nu finish wax.
(Oxcylic Axid powder is wood bleach $7 @ Ace hard ware)


Taking pics of chrome parts is more difficult then cleaning them.

Fork before

Aftetr

bars before

after

 

[Whitfield]

My pix skills stink ~

Maybe I can get Yoothgeye the Photog to snap a few good ones at christmas time.

 

[yoothgeye]

Mike those photos are great! Taht stuff is doing a great job. How long did you soak them? I read that the oxalic acid takes off anodizing, so caution!

 

[user 135]

That doesn't harm the existing decals?

 

[yoothgeye]

That doesn't harm the existing decals?

From the other frames and parts I've seen before it leaves the decals alone, just goes after the rust.

 

[Whitfield]

No harm to the decals.

Best I can describe it is that the acid chemically does what you would normally do with steel wool but with out scratching up the chrome. You must clean / treat polish and protect the chrome imediatly after the bath or it will begin to oxidze again just like with steel wool. I soaked a 20" fork for extra time (36 hrs) then removed it before work yesterday and forgot and left it out in the rain for 12 hrs. Ooops so now it is back in the bath again.

Very cheap and very easy. I left most parts in for just 24 hrs.

(4 heaping plastic fast food spoons of Oxalic Acid from Ace Hardware

Added to the 74 quart Sterilite under bed tote from Target which was full of water.

Mix with Oxalic Acid powder a big push broom and then soak parts. Rust will turn bright yell when it is read to be cleaned off. Ofcourse this is acid and this is a chemical reaction so you must use caution and wear the proper protective equiptment . I'll post up a link to where I got my info from as they do a much better job of describing the process.
http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132

I read about the anno and I would not put any aluminium parts in the bath (Steel only). With the bike parts complete I dropped in a ATV ehaust system and rear alxe just to see what the possiablities are. The chromed extended rear axle turned out great. THe scaley flaky rust on the exhaust only so/ so... But still soaking for a second 24 hrs. so we will see.

 

[Whitfield]

King Sting ride ~ found what I believe to be a period correct Avocet Racing saddle. (which I obviously didn't tighten enough). Turned out smooth ~ lots of fun to ride. I wish the pictures were better but thought i'd share what I have. (Pictured with my wife's late model full suspension bike)