Axle size for Schwinn Typhoon

[JFinelli81]

Hello, I'm new to these bikes. I'm mainly a 80's BMX guy.

I am looking to pick up a 63 typhoon. It's just a frameset and I want to put on some 140 spoke Ebay wheels which are advertised at 3/8 axles. I'm basing this whole build/purchase around those wheels working and I wonder if anyone can confirm they will fit this frame set?

Thanks

 

[Wildcat]

First, welcome aboard!

I've used various wheels on the forks like the 63 Typhoon came with.

I think they came with the 5/16th axles, so the 3/8ths will need a little help. I file down the axle threads right where they slide onto the forks. Just the portion that contacts the forks, 2 slots on each side, and just enough to fit.

 

[JFinelli81]

Thanks for the welcome and the response. I could grind some flats if necessary. Thanks for the info.

 

[Bicycle808]

Most likely, your new hub will also be too wide between the dropouts to fit the fork without spreading the tines by brute force. You can do it, and most have, but i predict you´ll put a rad 26"BMX cruiser fork into that frame before long....

Welcome to RRB!

 

[rrtbike]

I think lots of people file out the forks too... Again just takes a little.

 

[Bicycle808]

I think lots of people file out the forks too... Again just takes a little.

Yeah, they do.... but vintage Schwinn forks are worth a good bit of money, and they don´t make´m anymore, whereas hub axles are cheap, and they still make those in huge numbers. So, I´d definitely file 2 flats on the axle, rather than trying to enlarge the fork ends.

 

[Dizzle Problems]

Rather then file anything, I like these-- http://porkchopbmx.com/front-bicycl...-135mm-with-5-16-flats-each-yellow-zinc-gold/

And as far as spacing, the fork will be at 90mm vs hub spaced at 100mm. Although I've never had an issue getting a front wheel in with a lil messaging, some hubs do have washers/spacers between the cone and locknut that you could remove too.

The rear wheel should fit fine. (Assuming coaster brake)

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

I like @Dizzle Problems idea, it would be the route I'd take.
Mostly because I would find a way to screw up the threads.
And this would be ~$10 for a clean solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bicycle808]

That´s a great idea for the axle, but you´l want to verify that the new hub´s front axle is 3/8x26tpi. It probably is, but it pays to make sure before you order parts.

 

[Dizzle Problems]

That´s a great idea for the axle, but you´l want to verify that the new hub´s front axle is 3/8x26tpi. It probably is, but it pays to make sure before you order parts.

Very true. Measure twice, buy once. They'll fit the majority, but other sizes are definitely are out there

 

[Bicycle808]

Absolutely, the most common true 3/8¨ fronts are 26tpi. But, in this day and age, the most common front axle is M9x1, although i doubt highly that the OP´s 140spoke cruisr wheels are anything but 3/8¨. I just like to keep these things thorough, as a lot of folks do get to the RRB how-to forum via google searches, looking for advice on customization, retrofits, and hacks...

 

[Phil Fink]

Lately, I have been buying aluminum rimmed wheels at the lowest cost I can find; they usually come with fat axles, 3/8 or metric(?). I have recently found replacement Wheel Master 5/16" - 26 (tpi) x 96mm x 140mm axles, cones, nuts etc. for an additional ~$4 + S/H with good success - (especially with W/M wheels).

For some applications, I have to resort to removing the lock nuts (jam nuts) to fit the fork width (side to side); reduces 96 mm to older 3-1/2" (90 mm) widths.

 

[Bicycle808]

Lately, I have been buying aluminum rimmed wheels at the lowest cost I can find; they usually come with fat axles, 3/8 or metric(?). I have recently found replacement Wheel Master 5/16" - 26 (tpi) x 96mm x 140mm axles, cones, nuts etc. for an additional ~$4 + S/H with good success - (especially with W/M wheels).

For some applications, I have to resort to removing the lock nuts (jam nuts) to fit the fork width (side to side); reduces 96 mm to older 3-1/2" (90 mm) widths.

The 5/16¨ axles with 5/16¨ hardware will work fine on hubs that use the same bearings, but it´s hard to say if a new hub will have those bearings. Obviously, if the new wheel is an unsealed Wheelmaster set, it´s a safe bet. Otherwise, there´s a chance it won´t work.

OTOH, if you remove the jam nuts from your front hub, you ARE going to have trouble keeping your hubs adjusted properly. You´re better off just muscling the oversized hub into the fork, IMO.

 

[Phil Fink]

OTOH, if you remove the jam nuts from your front hub, you ARE going to have trouble keeping your hubs adjusted properly. You´re better off just muscling the oversized hub into the fork

Thanks. It seems that I have more muscles after letting the paint cure a few weeks; I have only one of those forks with the odd hole on one side and slot on the other.