Bendix hub servicing

[lildietz]

I am in the process of restoring a 1979 Schwinn Spitfire, and today I undertook the task of cleaning up the rear wheel. I want to get inside the Bendix hub, clean it up, regrease it (with my buddy Phil Wood), and put it back together. I've never done this before and I need to know if there is anything to be aware of before I dive into this. Any springs gonna pop out and hit me in the face? Stuff like that.

Here is the hub in question.

 

[Crassly]

As you probably know, you have a Bendix 2 speed automatic hub. Here is a link to a step by step servicing procedure for your hub, courtesy of Mark Smith. On the left side, click on Bendix Automatic.

http://www.bunchobikes.com/repair2.htm

 

[Jpromo]

That would be the 2-speed kickback hub. Definitely a bit more difficult than a standard Bendix but it is not impossible. No springs will pop out at you but there are about 10 loose bearings between the low drive screw and its bearing race but they likely won't go far considering they're probably aged in grease.

Hardest thing the first time is getting the lock nut off on the drive side of the hub. I found that clamping the axle in a vise, angling a regular screwdriver flatways and rotating works real well. The red band brake system is a ripoff of the new departure brake system of discs so clean those off and add a dab of oil on each one when you put it back together, every other one different. Degrease and regrease everything real thoroughly, check for any obvious signs of wear. Reassemble.

It may take a few tries to get the final assembly step right because every hub goes together a little differently. Here's a diagram for reference.

 

[lildietz]

Thank you both very much! Especially "Jpromo" for the pictures!

 

[user 135]

Here is a post concerning the overhaul by Udallscustombikes. http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21780

Found in the How To Manual viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2599 :wink: :wink:

 

[udallcustombikes]

Here is a post concerning the overhaul by Udallscustombikes. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21780

Found in the How To Manual http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewto ... f=3&t=2599 :wink: :wink:

You beat me to it.

 

[lildietz]

Pretty sure the self proclaimed mechanic that I bought this bike from lost the thing you need the "special" tool for.


And I can't get the non-drive assembly apart from the axle. The lock nut won't come off. The discs are still on the axle in this assembly.

 

[Crassly]

Do not despair - you can make your own special tool.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l58 ... y/tool.jpg

 

[Jpromo]

My special tool is a regular screwdriver with a head that just fits inside the lock nut width-wise. Clamp axle, angle screwdriver down into nut. Voila! Good luck. First time was a struggle and the following two times were a breeze once you find a good way to do things.

 

[lildietz]

I can't get the lock nut off on the brake side.


Is the lock nut on the DRIVE SIDE that special one?

 

[lildietz]

Purple Power won't even tackle some of the grease that has been making this hub roll for 33 years.

 

[Jpromo]

Amazon has some pretty poor reviews of this stuff but I swear by it. Leave greasy parts in overnight and old grease melts off. Blow the parts off with an air hose and you're ready to regrease. It evaporates too so you don't have to worry about getting nooks and crannies 100% dry like WD-40.

 

[lildietz]

Do you like that specific stuff? Or just odorless mineral spirits in general? I have some of that in the garage. I'll just soak them overnight if you think it'll work.


How did you get the non drive side lock nut off?

 

[lildietz]

They are soaking now. Hopefully the mineral spirits don't damge anything. There aren't any rubber seals or anything though, so everything should be fine. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll remove the 3 red stripes on the hub itself so I don't have to strip it.

 

[Jpromo]

I use that specific stuff. It's like a strange milky substance completely different from normal spirits but I'd imagine it'd do the same thing? maybe? It won't damage anything; I leave chains soaking for long periods of time while the rest of the bike is getting worked on.
Good luck! Keep the stripes :wink:

 

[lildietz]

The stripes aren't going anywhere! The hub is getting a new lease on life. It's all cleaned up and squeaky clean...just got to get it back together now. I'm gonna head over to a friends new shop and check out the new digs and I'll probably put it back together over there. I'm gonna get the hub all back together, and then I will steel wool and polish the shell, then apply some new red paint to the coaster brake arm (lettering) and to the 3 stripes.

Thanks for your help, and I will post a picture when it's done.

 

[lildietz]

Well I'm back from a day at my buddies shop. I got the hub cleaned, greased, and back together. I also scored a *free* 1973 Schwinn front hub, Made in France, for my efforts. Now to figure out what hoops I will be lacing these guys up to... I don't want to do old Schwinn specific rims, because my plans for the bike are all stemming off the idea of a pair of 26" Bontrager Hank tires.



Rim suggestions anybody?

 

[B607]

I love my Bontrager Hank red lines. Worth every penny of the $75 I paid for them. The high pressure tires make riding my heavy cruiser seem like it's a skinny tire road bike. I used alloy rims off of a 2000-something Schwinn Cruiser. The rims came with a Nexus 7. With my 52T chainring, the Nexus and the Bontragers, this bike is really fast. I hate riding my other ballooners now. With their regular balloon tires, it's like I'm riding in mud. Gary