BO15 Blue Bomber Curbhopper

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More paint removal coming up today. Leaning towards painting it myself.

Anybody have luck keeping the shiny bare metal with clear coat? What about the metallic (copper, bronze, gold) paints— do they patina in the weather or remain bright?
 
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Progress
 

Progress... Impeded.

Started on the downtube and my handy-dandy drill of 15-20 years decided to retire. With a fatal noise and a fatal smell, the motor stopped puttung out RPMs. There was a rattle, and bits of copper tumbled out. It served me well.

I’m not good enough to try and repair something like that, so, new drill in hand, more to come...
 
Bare steel look would be rad if you can keep it! The clear coat would be awesome IMHO. Or you could use pledge to polish it. Boiled linseed oil is something else, more of a rust/patina preserver.

I’ve read clear coated frames still tend to rust. Not sure if it’s a UV thing or chipped/bad paint, etc... Was hoping some trusted RRB advisors with experience could confirm or deny. Considering Copper as well. Have an indoor/outdoor version & will run a test this weekend to see if I like.
 
Progress... Impeded.

Started on the downtube and my handy-dandy drill of 15-20 years decided to retire. With a fatal noise and a fatal smell, the motor stopped puttung out RPMs. There was a rattle, and bits of copper tumbled out. It served me well.

I’m not good enough to try and repair something like that, so, new drill in hand, more to come...
R.I. P. Handy Dandy
 
Well, in good news, my new 8.0 amp drill is more than 2x as powerful as the old 3.5 amp. Also, lighter as it’s not using a hunk of steel as a body.

More progress.
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It sure does shine up nice with the fibre wheel. :cool:
 
I'm a fan of the wordplay of CurbHopper. Went down a similar name path with the RockRat. Sounds faaar better than my first attempt: the HardRat.:shake:
My Specialized is ratty, not a pervert!
 
I like the CurbHopper logo! Nice play on the model name. I'd prob just leave off the Specialized brand name, or do a word play on that one too. Somehow work a 'rat' lingo in with it....
'Rat-ionalized' using the same script as the Specialized logo? Brainstorming here...no bad ideas.
 
CurbHopper is cool.
Beautiful metal under dat dare paint.
 
The rain and humidity here is causing flash rust on my frame within hours of removing paint. I'm envious of how clean yours is staying.
I'm having the same issue !

Our rain started yesterday. I brought the frame inside (from the garage) to the climate-controled environs in order to prevent major surface rust issues. The top tube, which I did first, already shows some light touches. I'll have to give it a quick once-over before priming. If my timing is right, I'll finish the seatstays about the time the rain stops and have a day or three to prime and paint. Even if I can only get the primer on, to stop the rust.

I had the best rattle-can result ever last year due to good fortune with the temp & humidity, plus being patient and letting each coat cure for a good week. Still holding strong and durable.

I'd love to leave it bare, but all my research points to there not being a good & successful way: clear coat, wax, or other. And, let's face it, I'll never qualify for @OddJob 's "Most RaT-isfying Rust-ified RaT Rods"! I'm just more of a "make it new again" guy than a "patina" guy. Someday, maybe I'll go for the NaTty RaTs (shiny and glittery), but this year I'm going for color.

...
Beautiful metal under dat dare paint.

FWIW, I'm using a flap wheel on a drill to remove the paint, which is gentle enough not to take too much or leave gouges, and polishes it up nice, followed by a nylon brush wheel on the drill, which is way more gentle, but can reach into the corners better. Dremel with a flap wheel in tight spaces, and hand sanding with 120 grit paper in the tighter places.
Getting a good shoulder and triceps workout.
Man, I wish I had a sandblaster!
 
Our rain started yesterday. I brought the frame inside (from the garage) to the climate-controled environs in order to prevent major surface rust issues. The top tube, which I did first, already shows some light touches. I'll have to give it a quick once-over before priming. If my timing is right, I'll finish the seatstays about the time the rain stops and have a day or three to prime and paint. Even if I can only get the primer on, to stop the rust.

I had the best rattle-can result ever last year due to good fortune with the temp & humidity, plus being patient and letting each coat cure for a good week. Still holding strong and durable.

I'd love to leave it bare, but all my research points to there not being a good & successful way: clear coat, wax, or other. And, let's face it, I'll never qualify for @OddJob 's "Most RaT-isfying Rust-ified RaT Rods"! I'm just more of a "make it new again" guy than a "patina" guy. Someday, maybe I'll go for the NaTty RaTs (shiny and glittery), but this year I'm going for color.



FWIW, I'm using a flap wheel on a drill to remove the paint, which is gentle enough not to take too much or leave gouges, and polishes it up nice, followed by a nylon brush wheel on the drill, which is way more gentle, but can reach into the corners better. Dremel with a flap wheel in tight spaces, and hand sanding with 120 grit paper in the tighter places.
Getting a good shoulder and triceps workout.
Man, I wish I had a sandblaster!
We need to all pitch in and buy a community sandblaster ? :thumbsup: I hate striping paint .
 
We need to all pitch in and buy a community sandblaster ? :thumbsup: I hate striping paint .
I almost did! At HF I could assemble a basic set up for about $250, (compressor, gun, media & media container.) The cabinet big enough for a bike would need to be custom... thinking/researching that for when I get out of this rental home over winter.

Shipping it all back and forth might get a tad $$$ though! :D
 

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