Brooks saddle...DONE??
- Thread starter ratrodtrikes44
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
- Joined
- May 10, 2016
- Messages
- 1,448
- Reaction score
- 3,554
It looks fine to me. As long as there are no tears near any rivets, usually, no problem. I would recommend profide on the top and bottom worked in properly and let to dry then buffed.
I had a Lepper Primus with similar or worse cracks in the leather. After a few weeks riding they they became quite smooth under my butt. So I'd say there is nothing wrong with your saddle, still rideable.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Good leather is indestructible!
I agree that it should still have life left in it. Try some Proofide, maybe heat it with a blowdryer, then repeat until it's fully absorbed. The tins are expensive for how much you get, but they go a long way.
Just heard a "crunch" while riding slowly, looked down and noticed
a crack,got off the bike and it fell off! Saddle was comfortable too!
Was just ordering the Proofhide. Guessing this was sitting a long time in not the greatest conditions.....too bad, got the rest of the bike looking and running good. Thanks all for the input.
a crack,got off the bike and it fell off! Saddle was comfortable too!
Was just ordering the Proofhide. Guessing this was sitting a long time in not the greatest conditions.....too bad, got the rest of the bike looking and running good. Thanks all for the input.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Not sure, check on the usual sites, there will be others selling saddle parts so you can compare.
It looks like the nose piece broke off and the leather just couldn't hold without it. Was is set too hard? Give me a minute to post a photo (I am on the PC and will switch to phone after I write this, because uploading pics is easier directly, without the need to transfer them to pc) - that saddle had worse cracks than your saddle and they smoothened out after a few weeks riding.
I can add that even after riding it a few times in hard rain, where the whole underside was wet (no fenders) and despite me being too lazy to ever use the proofide the saddle survived with no issues. But it could be the suspension that helped with that, mine is the 8 spring version.
It looks like the nose piece broke off and the leather just couldn't hold without it. Was is set too hard? Give me a minute to post a photo (I am on the PC and will switch to phone after I write this, because uploading pics is easier directly, without the need to transfer them to pc) - that saddle had worse cracks than your saddle and they smoothened out after a few weeks riding.
I can add that even after riding it a few times in hard rain, where the whole underside was wet (no fenders) and despite me being too lazy to ever use the proofide the saddle survived with no issues. But it could be the suspension that helped with that, mine is the 8 spring version.
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,290
- Reaction score
- 9,465
I have restored 3 leather saddles that were in very poor shape. A Brooks (from a 1900s bike) that was so old that it didn't have a Brooks metal tab on the rear and no rivet holes from one ever being there and two French leather saddles from the 1930s. I have used the alcohol and glycerine bath technique. It took many days of soaking to get these saddles soft. I put clamps and duct tape (the saddle was protected from the duct tape adhesive with plastic wrap) to bring the saddles back into shape as they were badly flattened and distorted. Saddle soap contains glycerin for its restorative quality and the soap cleans. My saddles were like wood and saddle soap would not do it. I got the glycerine at a drug store. The attached information on archeological leather restoration also contains a method using ethylene glycol (the pink RV antifreeze), which is a wax. I have never tried this but it looks promising.
File7.htm
File7.htm
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,290
- Reaction score
- 9,465
I forgot an important step. I used a combination of neets foot oil and mink oil, in heavy coats, to soak the saddle after the glycerine treatment. I kept it in a warm place and repeated this treatment for many days as the oil and paste would go right into the old leather. The cracks are still there but the saddles now have about the same flexibility as a new one. This whole process takes about a month. I keep a large close pin type clamp on the part of the saddles that goes between your legs, when I'm not riding, so that they don't start to flatten out. Some old saddles tend to have a memory of their old wowed out self.
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2015
- Messages
- 167
- Reaction score
- 237
Here is a good thread on recovering a tensioned saddle:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/148675/
It is a pretty involved process, but mimics the way Brooks do the originals.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/148675/
It is a pretty involved process, but mimics the way Brooks do the originals.
Where I live, there is this super dry leather seat for free. It feels like sandpaper. The back is intact, but the front half is nonexistent. What is left of the front part is just a shriveled up bit of leather hanging in the middle of the seat.
