What parts are safe to sandblast?

[ParkRNDL]

So I've got this X-53 boys' bike with horrible homebrew paint and lots of wrong parts, and I just stumbled upon a complete X-53 girls' bike with fair to good paint. At the moment my plan is to paint the boys frame and tank to match the two-tone blue paint scheme of the girls bike and switch the parts over. I know that the frame can be safely sandblasted, but what about the tank? I've read that sandblasting can be destructive to sheet metal and other thin parts. Can an old tank like this be safely sandblasted? Alternately, will aircraft stripper damage it?

 

[KJV]

I prefer to soda blast ; this takes all the paint off without messing up the metal.

 

[Captain Awesome]

I prefer to soda blast ; this takes all the pain off without messing up the metal.

+1 ^

Much less harsh option

 

[ParkRNDL]

now that you mention it, I have seen signs for a place near me that does soda blasting. I will look them up. Thanks!

 

[Kevin B]

Some blast with nut shell chips for a less harsh removal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXPJ4SG...SLKJ1&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

 

[rickpaulos]

That home brew paint should come off very easy. Even soap and hot water and a scotch brite pad will take it off.

Sand or shot blasting would destroy tins. Ice blasting would probably leave dents in that thin metal.

I bought a blaster and a box of walnut shell chips. Useless. I suspect my air home compressor wasn't powerful enough.

I've been using various non toxic orange type strippers with pretty good results. Very useful for small items. Not so great for full kitchen walls. There are some that you apply then wrap with plastic to keep the stripper from drying out. Others don't need the plastic. The claims of removing up to 7 layers of paint in 1 pass are bogus. A small tub will cost far less than any blasting service.

Kleen Strip with MTBE (the good stuff) is really hard to find anywhere anymore. Their less toxic version isn't so great.

Some Trek bikes are nearly impossible. I swear the finish is tougher than the aluminum frames. I've given up trying to strip those frames. Impervious to all chemicals. the rotostripper took chunks of metal out of the aluminum.

I used to use a ROTO-STRIPPER, as seen on TV. Fits in an electric drill so it only spins as fast as your drill goes. There are cheap knock offs that are prone to throwing wires so you have to very careful to hold it 90 degrees away from your head. Does a decent job on hard steel parts. Will go through tins. Won't get in to corners like most bike frames have. Will gouge mild steel. Will rip wood to shreds depending on the gauge of the wires.

Sanding. Not talking about old sheets of woodworking sand paper. Strips of emery cloth can take paint off pretty quick, including in tight corners. Not very good for flat surfaces. I recently bought a tiny hand held belt sander (1/2" wide belt) that's almost too aggressive.

Any time you have steel parts blasted, you need to prime them immediately, as in the same day. Don't touch the parts with your hands or greasy rags. I've had bike frames blasted and the blasters primed them minutes later. Primer isn't a sealer so you you need to paint your base coat the next day at the latest.

 

[Kevin B]

That home brew paint should come off very easy. Even soap and hot water and a scotch brite pad will take it off.

Sand or shot blasting would destroy tins. Ice blasting would probably leave dents in that thin metal.

I bought a blaster and a box of walnut shell chips. Useless. I suspect my air home compressor wasn't powerful enough.

I've been using various non toxic orange type strippers with pretty good results. Very useful for small items. Not so great for full kitchen walls. There are some that you apply then wrap with plastic to keep the stripper from drying out. Others don't need the plastic. The claims of removing up to 7 layers of paint in 1 pass are bogus. A small tub will cost far less than any blasting service.

Kleen Strip with MTBE (the good stuff) is really hard to find anywhere anymore. Their less toxic version isn't so great.

Some Trek bikes are nearly impossible. I swear the finish is tougher than the aluminum frames. I've given up trying to strip those frames. Impervious to all chemicals. the rotostripper took chunks of metal out of the aluminum.

I used to use a ROTO-STRIPPER, as seen on TV. Fits in an electric drill so it only spins as fast as your drill goes. There are cheap knock offs that are prone to throwing wires so you have to very careful to hold it 90 degrees away from your head. Does a decent job on hard steel parts. Will go through tins. Won't get in to corners like most bike frames have. Will gouge mild steel. Will rip wood to shreds depending on the gauge of the wires.

Sanding. Not talking about old sheets of woodworking sand paper. Strips of emery cloth can take paint off pretty quick, including in tight corners. Not very good for flat surfaces. I recently bought a tiny hand held belt sander (1/2" wide belt) that's almost too aggressive.

Any time you have steel parts blasted, you need to prime them immediately, as in the same day. Don't touch the parts with your hands or greasy rags. I've had bike frames blasted and the blasters primed them minutes later. Primer isn't a sealer so you you need to paint your base coat the next day at the latest.

Very informative post. Thanks.