Cable Crimping ???

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highship said:
maybe this picture will help...
4-1.jpg
Maybe its just me, but that looks backwards. Shouldn't it be this way (sorry for blurry pic)?

cableend.jpg
 
Thanks for the excelent ideas, I'm going to try the s.s. or brass tubing if I can find some.

Not sure I'm following the backwards thing... Cable is running through towards the thumb lever just like your pic. If I could flip the pic they would look the same.
 
deorman said:
Looks like the same thing at a different angle to me. :?

The blurry picture shows the " factory" knob on the end, not a crimp.

Not sure I'm following the backwards thing... Cable is running through towards the thumb lever just like your pic. If I could flip the pic they would look the same.

That's backwards. Cable should run from the thumb lever to the hub. The open ended cable threads into the shifter lever, into the cable sheath, down to the hub. The cast knob* is the last of the feed as it seats against the shifter.

*But possibly... SA cables are different than what I've been using... what I shot in photo. I'm thinking this might be the case.
 
There are adapters that take an open cable, but the factory cable has a threaded barrel that acts as a turnbuckle on the wheel end, and can't pass through the shifter. As I understand it I think he's trying to fix the shifter end. You stick it in through the hole and feed it past the trigger.
 
8ball said:
highship said:
maybe this picture will help...
4-1.jpg
Maybe its just me, but that looks backwards. Shouldn't it be this way (sorry for blurry pic)?

cableend.jpg

You are completely correct about the top photo being backwards. I didn't notice that before. The bottom photo is correct. If you don't have a cable with the factory metal blob on it (not to be confused with a cable crimp), then you shifter probably won't work right. You should get a cable with the proper blob on end and bare braided cable on the other. You thread the bare end through the shifter towards the rear wheel until the factory blob fits into its slot in the thumb shifter. Then when everything is tightened up with the set screw near the rear hub, you can choose to use a cable crimper on the bare end near the hub (but the only real purpose of the crimp is to keep the bare end from fraying).

I am sure if you search for this on the Sheldon Brown web page you will find a much better explanation of this.
 
What you say is true, if you are using this type,
ZHSL746.JPG

http://harriscyclery.net/product/sturme ... e-1096.htm
but on old style originals there is no nut/bolt open end cable accepter, the cable goes inside the threaded barrel and is held by another bit of lead. If you have one like this picture, you can use almost any bicycle cable.
 

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