Can you accelerate rust?
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deorman said:MMMmm muratic acid.
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!! Muriatic Acid is VERY hazardous. It fumes heavily, and will burn your lungs. There are several much safer alternatives that are nearly as fast. I have seen a mixture of vinegar and peroxide rust overnight, and salt and vinegar applied with a torch creates instant rust that will fully mature in 2-3 days.
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Here is a simple formula, and it wont kill ya, well at least it hasn't me yet.
Mix up a batch of the following, half hydrogen peroxide (drugstore grade is fine), half vinegar, and a pinch of salt. The reaction is pretty fast, and seems to produce a gas of some sort (I'm going to guess hydrogen) Just put it in a pump spray bottle and spray on bare metal. Works faster if the metal is clean and degreased first, either a wax & grease remover or simple paint thinner works great to remove any grease. The rust seems to form as the solution dries so it works better/faster in warm dry weather. I've even used a hair drier to speed it up when its cool, humid, or I'm just real impatient. The quick 5 min rust is fairly light but a little spray of clear coat will seat it in, but I usually like to spray the mix on and then set it outside in the sun for a few days and the rust sets in deeper on it own.
Mix up a batch of the following, half hydrogen peroxide (drugstore grade is fine), half vinegar, and a pinch of salt. The reaction is pretty fast, and seems to produce a gas of some sort (I'm going to guess hydrogen) Just put it in a pump spray bottle and spray on bare metal. Works faster if the metal is clean and degreased first, either a wax & grease remover or simple paint thinner works great to remove any grease. The rust seems to form as the solution dries so it works better/faster in warm dry weather. I've even used a hair drier to speed it up when its cool, humid, or I'm just real impatient. The quick 5 min rust is fairly light but a little spray of clear coat will seat it in, but I usually like to spray the mix on and then set it outside in the sun for a few days and the rust sets in deeper on it own.
How fast do ya want it to rust?
I had rusted a few brand spanking new hinges within 30 minutes.. by mixing bleach and water in 50/50 ratio in enameled pot.. heat the mixture to low boiling.. best done outdoor and do not stand over boiling bleach mixture it's not good to breathe that stuff.. then drop in whatever clean bare steel or iron object that you want to rust
I had rusted a few brand spanking new hinges within 30 minutes.. by mixing bleach and water in 50/50 ratio in enameled pot.. heat the mixture to low boiling.. best done outdoor and do not stand over boiling bleach mixture it's not good to breathe that stuff.. then drop in whatever clean bare steel or iron object that you want to rust
yes, that stuff is pretty potent when boiling.. I found out the hard way while looking in to check the progress..
I use the salt/vinegar/hydrogen peroxide method. Cheap, safer than a lot of the other stuff I've seen.....and did I mention cheap??
I am sure there's are few other cheap methods..
another trick is lay part(s) out behind the barn, on the ground.. everyday for a month, ya go out back and urinate on the parts.. this is near costless method there is..
another trick is lay part(s) out behind the barn, on the ground.. everyday for a month, ya go out back and urinate on the parts.. this is near costless method there is..
i guess I'll chirp in on this. Like everyone stated vinegar and salt water works well but that only draws out a certain tone. Peroxide will give you red rust tones and Clorox bleach and salt water will give you more of the green and blue tones. For example if you're trying to rust out something that's coastal you'd want more of the blue and green tones that comes with salt in the air from the beach. Two things that no one mentioned which is important is number one to drastically speed up the process you're gonna want to lightly wrap the frame in plastic wrap that will create a humidity chamber. I live in Nevada with 0% humidity normally by wrapping up the metal I can speed the process up by days. By wrapping up the metal you will also help speed up the pitting process. If you notice when you try to rust something usually it will wipe off on your hands and then you'll have a hard time sealing it you're gonna want the rust to penetrate the metal enough so that the clear coat will have something to bind itself and hold to. The last step before clearing to preserve is you have to counter the oxidization process. If you simply rust and clear it will continue to rust under the clear coat and look muddy. You need to take warm water and baking soda and wipe the frame down this recipe will stop the oxidization process in its tracks and then you clean up and clear to protect.
NOTE TO SELF: Don't buy 'Peetinad' Parts from Old_Goat!
Although the method may have an added level of theft deterant.
that's how I rust blued my old muzzleloader barrel. It turned plum brown color..NOTE TO SELF: Don't buy 'Peetinad' Parts from Old_Goat!
Although the method may have an added level of theft deterant.
Some old timers would buried iron parts in barn lots, and let it sit for a few weeks
I believe using liquid Perma Gun Blue on rusted parts will do that. sometime Naval Jelly will turns rusty metal black.. and there a spray on metal treatment called "Extend" a rust converter marketed by Loctite which it will turn rust black, goes on clear, turns black as it dry
I could not believe that I completely forgot all about that product, when I used it on antique guns.. Thank ...
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Yes, that's where it is most often used. I have a flintlock musket I used it on to get an antique look without actual crusty rust- worked great. But you could indeed use it anywhere you can put a little heat and need some browning.
pretty good stuff to use when you don't feel doin' other methods...
It's hard to keep a bottle of it around here..
