Captain Slow - Finished!!

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Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
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Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Ok, so I'm a little late joining the show...

I was originally going to go with my CCM camelback frame and build a Pashley Govnor type of bike, something a little lighter than my normal cruiser and a little easier on my back with a tall seatpost and 700c wheels. Then I thought, heck, that's too easy, I should rework my old build off bike into something that is more comfortable for my 6'2" body to ride. Kinda ironic as I just pulled muscles in my shoulders two days ago and have spent most of the last 48 hours horizontal.

Anyway, here are the details. (sorry about the cell phone photos, can't find the usb cord for my camera)

1950 Schwinn Hornet frame as it sits now (gas pipe special viewtopic.php?f=25&t=9746):

2011-05-11193929.jpg


I will be stripping most of the parts and the paint, keeping only the crank and frame. I'm going to mothball the Shimano inter-4 wheelset until I can find a replacement 4 speed shifter (the suicide shift I built works ok until I hit a bump and then it downshifts when I am not expecting it) The fork will be put in storage as well. I just got a Girvin Proflex fork off Ebay that I will be fixing/converting for the build: (seller photo):

Purrint050.jpg


The wheels will be 700c rims on a matching pair of Sturmey Archer drum brake hubs (3 speed rear), similar to these I am using for my Pashley-clone build but with cream Electra City 700 x 40c tires:

2011-05-11193940.jpg


Other goodies:

2011-05-11193955.jpg


I am going for a kinda cruiser/speedster look with a lot of custom parts and a loud paint job, but it's pretty much up in the air as I have not completely decided what I want to do yet.
 
Re: I'm in (Insert Name Here)

Dig it.... Wanna sell the seat thats on it at the moment?
 
Re: I'm in (Insert Name Here)

I'm a little worried about the rear wheel fitting as well. The forward facing drop-outs on the frame mean I have to deflate the 26" tires every time I need to take the wheels off. If there is not enough clearance I can always switch to my 700c x 35 tires. Hopefully I can strip the frame and test clearance this weekend.
 
Re: I'm in (No name yet) ** updated **

Ok, my back feels better, time to work on the bike. Started stripping all the parts off the frame down so that I can remove the paint tomorrow (weather permitting).

Came across a small problem...

I have a vague memory of lovingly 'persuading' the gas pipe and fitting into the frame. What I don't seem to recall is the amount of angry pounding I must have given it in order to get it so stuck:

DSCN1758.jpg


A little weight added:

DSCN1760.jpg


I think I might have to add some heat after I strip off the paint.

Look what the postman brought today:

DSCN1764.jpg


Now to put it back together without any documents:

So far so good.

DSCN1766.jpg


Manged to find a picture on the interwebs:

DSCN1768.jpg


Mmmmmm.... the grommets are looking pretty dry, how about a spring from my son's old suspension bike?

DSCN1767.jpg


Quick mock-up:

DSCN1769.jpg


I put half a can of WD-40 down the seat tube to see if the pipe shifts. I added a spreader clamp to put some pressure on it so hopefully it will budge soon. I have an image of it popping out like a champagne cork sometime during the night...

I ordered a new threadless headset from ChainGangLowrider this morning but the fit looks pretty good so far. Might need a spacer but I'm not sure until I put on the new headset. The clearance on the rear tire is great but I might not be able to put the 700 x 40c tire on the front. We'll have to see once I get that in the mail too.
 
Re: I'm in (Insert Name Here)

This is the front tire clearance with a 700 x 35c tire.

2011-05-16145215.jpg
 
Re: I'm in (Insert Name Here)

garagegoon said:
Dig it.... Wanna sell the seat thats on it at the moment?

The saddle is pretty much for show at the moment, one of the support rails is broken. It might be possible to weld it but I don't think it would be strong enough to support any weight.
 
Re: RatFlex (name change)

Wow, considering I had everything together for this build way before the start date, I haven't been able to get much done so far. It reminds me of an episode of Top Gear where they introduce the newest, fastest sports car and then give it to James May to drive...

In honour of this, I am renaming this bike

Captain Slow!

923268784.jpg


Took advantage of the lack of rain this weekend and stripped the paint off with some lovely and painful chemicals. I started sanding the remaining paint but after looking at it a while I kinda like the effect along with the pitted bare steel of the frame. I think I will experiment with the effect a little. The old seat post is still in the frame. I have a cunning plan that involves a drill, lag bolts and large wooden fence post to 'persuade' the post to find a new home. Updates to come... (I have a back-up frame if this all goes pear-shaped)

2011-05-24201049.jpg


Found a solid resin skull at a local urban/recycled craft store that fits perfectly on the forks:

2011-05-24201404.jpg


Still having clearance issues with the 700c wheels. I bought a set of Electra Amsterdam 700 x 40c tires but there is not enough clearance to use them. The problem is that when you compress the forks, the pivot moves down and rubs on the tire. It is enough to stop the wheel moving if you hit a big enough bump. For now I am using my Schwalbe Delta Cruiser 700 x 35c which have just enough clearance.

Took the forks apart and removed the brake bosses ready to prime and paint, not sure what colour I'll be using yet. Also found my old wooden tank insert from the 'Gas Pipe' build, I will be building it up with a bunch of found stuff and possible fibre glass.
 
Re: Captain Slow (final name)

I saw the title and figured you HAD to be a Top Gear fan!
This is looking fantastic - can't wait for the rest! 8)
 
Re: Captain Slow (final name)

gowjobs said:
Great looking build. How many Girvin forks does that make in this year's challenge?


It's funny, I spent 2 years trying to get an affordable Girvin fork for a build and by the time I find one, everyone else does too :)

Lol, Maybe there should be a separate Girvin category?

The great thing is that all the builds are different, everyone has their own take on how to use these forks.
 
Re: Captain Slow (final name)

Hammond Eggz said:
I saw the title and figured you HAD to be a Top Gear fan!

Same here, I just had to come inside and read through the thread to see if he was indeed a fan or the title was just coincidence. So happy you're a fan!
 
Re: Captain Slow (final name)

yoothgeye said:
Hammond Eggz said:
I saw the title and figured you HAD to be a Top Gear fan!

Same here, I just had to come inside and read through the thread to see if he was indeed a fan or the title was just coincidence. So happy you're a fan!
count in another fan. love the bike so far
 
Re: Captain Slow (advise needed)

xddorox said:
I sure hope that seat post comes out. Great looking ride so far.

soooo... I've kinda hit a snag with the seatpost...

I'm uncertain as to what diabolic forces are keeping the seatpost jammed in the frame but pretty much all of the conventional methods I've tried so far have failed.

I've soaked it in WD-40, hammered it, put it in a vise and twisted it, used 4 spreader clamps and no success.

My question for those in the know is this: If I use a standard plumbing torch to heat the frame up, will it get hot enough to melt the brass that holds the seat tubes in place? This is my biggest worry and the reason I haven't tried heating the frame yet.

If I can't get the seatpost out then I will either have to switch frames or slam the seat onto the frame, which is not the look I was going for. I like the look of a slammed seat but it is impractical and uncomfortable to ride as I am pretty tall.

All advise will be much appreciated :)
 
Re: Captain Slow (advice needed)

Ok so I went ahead and heated the frame around the seatpost until it was a dull red and tried again to get everything shifted. After ten minutes of hammering and twisting, all I managed to do was snap a 3/8" bolt that was holding the vise to the bench. At this point I can pretty much say that it is not coming out.

I'm out of ideas at this point. If I had the cash I could take it to a machine shop and see if they could drill out the post.

Time to take a look at my other frame to see if it will work with these forks. It's a 1943 CCM camel back frame, made for 28" wheels. I had plans to half restore it so I may have to look for a replacement anyway.

Pictures or updates to follow.
 
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