Changing chain ring to 36 T ?

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I read that changing the chain ring from 44 T to 36 T with 20 T on the rear would make the cruiser a better ride. I have no hills where I ride but the inclines are hard on me with the present gear/sprocket set up.

So info. please whether you have done this and see benefit.

Thanks in advance,

Sorcerer
 
Sorcerer said:
I read that changing the chain ring from 44 T to 36 T with 20 T on the rear would make the cruiser a better ride. I have no hills where I ride but the inclines are hard on me with the present gear/sprocket set up.

So info. please whether you have done this and see benefit.

Thanks in advance,

Sorcerer

that's a pretty sizeable jump- while pedaling uphill will be easier, you may find yourself spinning like mad on the descent.....since it's not truly hilly there maybe split the difference and start with a 40/20 (?).

:wink:
 
44/20 shouldn't be that bad, unless you have a 60 lb bike. Is it otherwise in perfect riding condition? 36/20 would be like low gear on a 3 speed.
 
i changed my BIG DADDY over from 44 to 36;
this made "cruising" less of a chore.riding threw town is alot better now. it takes way less effort to get started after stopping at every block.
 
Bendix said:
Sorcerer said:
I read that changing the chain ring from 44 T to 36 T with 20 T on the rear would make the cruiser a better ride. I have no hills where I ride but the inclines are hard on me with the present gear/sprocket set up.

So info. please whether you have done this and see benefit.

Thanks in advance,

Sorcerer

that's a pretty sizeable jump- while pedaling uphill will be easier, you may find yourself spinning like mad on the descent.....since it's not truly hilly there maybe split the difference and start with a 40/20 (?).

:wink:


I just learned that the hard way.

After we installed the internal hub, I still needed to bring the gear ratio down a bit. We went to 20 T on the front and I can't get any purchase pedaling at all, even in 3rd, on a descent. I'll be notching back up to 36 T very soon.
 
StellaMae said:
I just learned that the hard way.

After we installed the internal hub, I still needed to bring the gear ratio down a bit. We went to 20 T on the front and I can't get any purchase pedaling at all, even in 3rd, on a descent. I'll be notching back up to 36 T very soon.

Wait, I'm sorry, I wrote that wrong. I went to a 28T on the front. This may not apply in your situation, but someone else might find the math useful:

xxT is the number of teeth on the gear: higher = harder to go up hills. I started with a 1-piece, 46T chainring. Totally standard and common. I also have a Shimano Nexus 3-speed internal gear hub on the rear. That changes things just a little.

I could switch out my 46T for a:
36T (36/46 = 22% easier): Probably a good choice for most riders
28T (28/46 = 39% easier): Probably entirely too big of a jump, resulting in pedals that feel loosey-goosey, increasing the likelihood of your foot slipping off a pedal and hitting the asphalt (ask me how I know) and generally making you look silly as you pedal really fast. Guess which option I picked-- yep. I'm moving back up to a 36T.

And, since you only get partial credit if you don't show your work, here's the math:

Front chainring: 46T
Rear sprocket: 19T
Baseline Gear Ratio = 46 / 19 = 2.42

HOWEVER: having an internal hub modifies difficulty by +/- 36%, so:
With a 46T, you're at 1.55 | 2.42 | 3.29
With a 36T, you'd be at: 1.21 | 1.89 | 2.56
With a 28T, you'd be at: .94 | 1.15 | 2.01

By comparison,my boyfriend's front gears are 28T / 36T / 44T and the middle gear on the back is 19T, giving his bike a gear ratio of 1.47 | 1.89 | 2.31.

Perhaps more info than ANYONE needed to know, but I'm kind of proud of myself for figuring it out.
 
I used my Raleigh SA 3spd to get a sense of it, and as put well above, you can figure what you like to spin. If you have another bike with a single speed just calc off of it for an up or down. Now, on the 3spd, the middle gear is a 1:1, just like a sgl spd coaster with those sprockets. I knew that the 2nd gear was a little less than I wanted and 3rd (high) was a little to stiff; ie, too much overdrive (this with a 46/18), so I am going to use a 21 or 22 T rear to make high where I want it and have nice lower gears for tough going.
 
FWIW - I use a 52 & 18 on my 60lb 1951 Schwinn Hornet... I guess that means I have a high torque low RPM powerplant. :)
 
If your bike is a single speed 26", a 44-20 set should be a fairly easy ride anywhere but a steep grade, unless you ride with a really low seat, or maybe your bearings need lube and/or adjustment. 36t drive sprockets are usually confined to bikes for little kids, overdrive hubs, or certain hardcore off-road applications. :|
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/g ... ble26.html
 

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