Clockwork Overkill
- Thread starter moteurhead
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JoKeR63 said:
The cone sprocket is actually welded solid and bolted to the mid drive. freewheel is at the rear wheel. The problem with it is that there is a slight twist on each tooth of the cone sprocket. In the proper direction this would aid in a smooth shift whereas rolling "backwards" causes the chain to skip on the smaller sprockets. A revised mid drive is in the works, I built this bike from scratch in a month and a half...and made a few mistakes, luckily winters are long in Maine so I'll have plenty of time to make her right for spring. Just gotta tweak it, LOL
Clockwork Overkill got a new belt drive made from a Ford 2.3 liter timing belt and sprockets. I also flipped the cone sprocket so it rolls in the intended direction and moved the free wheel from the back wheel to the mid drive. In addition, I dropped the six speed in favor of a new 7 speed. I also started fabrication of my springer fork inspired by John Brain's design. I was able to cut corners by using triple trees from a donor Mongoose MTB. The new forks will carry the same paint scheme as the original non-functional unit as chroming is expensive and I prefer the flames anyway. It's been a busy weekend but that's all the fun. 8)
Here's an overall shot of the Gates T014 belt drive.
The "crank" sprocket was simply welded inside an extended front hub.
Here I gutted a freewheel hub and stuffed it inside the cam sprocket then welded the assembly together. It just threads onto the rear hub and done. The completed drive gives me a 50% under drive. I was running a 16% under drive before and she was a dog on hills.
Still need to finish the spring perch and then ready for paint. These forks are a foot longer than my original and I have to weld on a new head tube for the larger stem, I'll end up with a little more rake and a much more radical look...cant wait.
I installed the new fork today. Here is a side shot of clockwork before,
and after,
I also made some trick strut levers, had to dig out the plasma cutter for these.
While I was at it I cut off the ornate round bar from the old fork and welded it to the strut. The spring retainers are 1 3/8 in. frost plugs, the springs are from the hardware store at about $1.50 each. The strut is made from 1/2 in. EMT but the 1 in. rolled tubing broke the bank at $26.75, had to be 1 in. to fit the trees and pipe is measured by i.d. not o.d.
I'm not quite ready for paint yet but will keep the same theme, flames over red with chrome accents. Here's a shot curb side,
Here's an overall shot of the Gates T014 belt drive.
The "crank" sprocket was simply welded inside an extended front hub.
Here I gutted a freewheel hub and stuffed it inside the cam sprocket then welded the assembly together. It just threads onto the rear hub and done. The completed drive gives me a 50% under drive. I was running a 16% under drive before and she was a dog on hills.
Still need to finish the spring perch and then ready for paint. These forks are a foot longer than my original and I have to weld on a new head tube for the larger stem, I'll end up with a little more rake and a much more radical look...cant wait.
I installed the new fork today. Here is a side shot of clockwork before,
and after,
I also made some trick strut levers, had to dig out the plasma cutter for these.
While I was at it I cut off the ornate round bar from the old fork and welded it to the strut. The spring retainers are 1 3/8 in. frost plugs, the springs are from the hardware store at about $1.50 each. The strut is made from 1/2 in. EMT but the 1 in. rolled tubing broke the bank at $26.75, had to be 1 in. to fit the trees and pipe is measured by i.d. not o.d.
I'm not quite ready for paint yet but will keep the same theme, flames over red with chrome accents. Here's a shot curb side,
