COMFORT VS. COOL

[Rat Rod]

I've run into a situation where someone has asked me to build them a cool custom bike that needs to be comfortable, very rideable and very unique.

From what I've seen and ridden over the years, this is harder to achieve than one might think. The bikes that are super comfortable and very practical for daily riding usually sacrifice the cool/unique factor. On the other hand, the bikes that look the coolest are usually not very comfortable or practical to ride.

Obviously "cool" is a somewhat subjective term, but I think most of us can agree when a bike nails a certain look that it is easy to label as cool.

The other goal in this project is creating a build that could possibly be replicated over and over again with different part configurations. I'm also trying to stay away from fabricating a frame of my own. Modern frame size and geometry is also a goal.

Sounds pretty easy huh?

 

[sensor]

Just take some measurements and then hit up your favorite Uncle to build a frame.
Or you can have them sit on something and see what they want for arm and leg extension and try to find something aesthetically pleasing. May not be perfect, but other than building a frame for them, thats about all you can do.

 

[deorman]

Sounds like a variation of the pick two conundrum. (fast safe cheap) GLWT.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

This may sound like it doesn't matter so much and is often overlooked...
But I think the seat makes a big difference in comfort and style.
I'm guessing a cruiser build, so an old style double springer in leather.

Carl.

 

[Bigcam59]

seat to pedal measurement is key. I measured both my Porucho and my Baron frame before buying, as I need 29" between the top of the seat and the center of the crank to insure good leg extension. Not much worse than trying to ride a bike that doesn't fit. Sometimes even as little as an inch forward or back can make a world of difference.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

seat to pedal measurement is key. I measured both my Porucho and my Baron frame before buying, as I need 29" between the top of the seat and the center of the crank to insure good leg extension. Not much worse than trying to ride a bike that doesn't fit. Sometimes even as little as an inch forward or back can make a world of difference.

Location, location, location.

 

[Bicycle808]

This sounds like an impssible mission, but it very well may not be. When Steve typed "I think most of us can agree when a bike nails a certain look that it is easy to label as cool", I can se his general point, but there's probably more exceptions to that rule then one might expect. There are exceptions where a bike might exemplify the "cool" formula, but somehow miss one variable and fall short. More likely, however, we have the "no accounting for taste" phenomena, where an individual just doesn't feel a particular bike, no matter how universally admired its looks may be.

The comfort issue is an even hairier dawg, b/c beyond the obvious considerations that come with the rider's size (height and weigt ae important), and other less common but equally conspicuous factors like any health conditions that may play a factor, you have just the usual idiosyncratic preferences of the individual rider. Some folks can't feel comfortable unless they can touch the ground from the saddle, whereas others require full leg extension. It's possible to achieve both of these goals with stretched ergos that put the crank well-forward of the saddle, but some ppl (like myself) will find that very uncomfortable to ride for considerable distance or time.

Carl mentions saddles, which are a huge factor in a bike's comfort for a particular rider, bt it's been my experience that saddle design is extremely subjective. When it comes to saddles, one man's panacea is another man's poison. Some folks love springs; others hate them. Some folks like'm wide and soft; others like them narrow and hard. There are even narrow and soft fans out there, as well as wide and hard.... While there are some general rules (eg, the saddle should get more narrow as it gets higher, relative to the handlebars), the "starting point" for each individual varies widely. The most frustrating thing about working in a bike shop, for me, was fielding the "saddle comfort" questions. It's hard to accept that what works for oneself may very well not work for others, and it's hard for the customer to accept that notion once you tell him/her.

I'm thinking, Steve, that you know this person whereas most of us don't, so you'll not likely get a lot of solid advice out of us. (I'm also guessing you were looking more for commiseration than for advice...) Even better, there's a good chance that your firend knows his/herself better than you do, and you seem to be a guy with a pretty wide selection of bikes. You can probably better guage your friends preferences in terms of aesthetics and comfort if you give'm access to your bikes. Don't give one of your keepers away or anything, but if your friend shows a definite appreciation for some of the features of one bike and for the geometry of another, that will provide you with valuable information as you design their bike...

 

[Rat Rod]

I was mainly thinking it could be a good topic for conversation, and at the same time, it might give me some ideas for the build.

Honestly, the 3G cruisers like the Newport are probably the most comfortable riding cruiser I've ever owned. I've had just about all of the different models of Electras, Felts, Nirves, etc. and none of them have been as comfortable as the 3G. On the other hand, the Electras and Felts usually win out on the cool factor because of their nice paint jobs or appealing themes.

For the true custom wow factor you've got all of the stretched cruisers like Ruff Cycles, Firebikes, Basman, etc. These obviously top the cool factor category, but ride comfort and practicality tend to suffer a bit. When I say that I refer to things like having to run dinky 145mm cranks so that you don't launch yourself when taking a turn or only having an inch between the frame and the ground. I'm sure someone out there can argue that they make for great daily riders, but from my experience they seem to be more show than go.

The other category would obviously be the vintage bikes, but as many of us know, it's not always easy to hit that comfort zone on a bike that was originally designed for a kid to ride. I will say that Dan Koenig at Ichi Bike seems to do a good job of taking the vintage stuff and making it very practical and rideable for the masses, but most of them end up falling into the Klunker category when he's all done.

I suppose if I were a welder with solid engineering skills like my Uncle I'd probably just build my own frame, but for this project I need to work off of an existing frame and fork.

 

[MIGZ]

In my opinon the best riding frame out there is the straight 8 sytle Electra attitude frame. Key is not using the tripple trees those kill the turing radius.

The riding position is comfortable, bottom braket is high enough off the ground to not scrape and not the tallest bike either.

 

[jamesdart]

Sounds like you just need to start with an Electra, then add some custom touches.

That's what I was thinking but figured a hundred guys would think I'm nuts. My cheap steel electra with a few things thrown at it, is the nicest riding bike I think I've ridden. I think I like the style of the rat rod and delivery frame better though.

 

[dezzie]

I rode 70 miles on my electra rallysport last week, 25 miles in one hit on it yesterday, singlespeed, I am 42 with arthritis and an impending heart operation soon and that bike by far has been the most comfy ever but I would like to get up hills etc so considering the new felts with fat bike tyres and 3 speeds, I need something super comfy and I appreciate all these great stretched cruisers etc but so impracticle for my needs as its my get to work bike, pose bike, long ride bike so has to cover many bases, I may also consider a proper fatbike and fit it with cruiser bars and a brooks saddle from my electra this way I can have even more gears.

 

[deven_science]

In my experience so far, Basmans are the most comfortable production frame there is. They may not be the most custom, but they are smooth, stylish, and comfy. I may even buy one someday.

 

[twister]

I've got a few different style bikes, but the bikes I could ride all day, comfortably, are my 2 Electra's. I would like to own a custom built ruff frame, but I'm afraid I would be disappointed in the comfort.

 

[Bicycle808]

My most comfy bike is a late 80s mtb with dropbars.... but somehow, i don't think that's what Steve's friend has in mind.

 

[Bigcam59]

my Ruff Porucho and my Kahaki Baron are two of the most comfortable cruisers I've ever built, but then again at 6'1" I don't fit regular cruisers too well.

 

[MIGZ]

In my experience so far, Basmans are the most comfortable production frame there is. They may not be the most custom, but they are smooth, stylish, and comfy. I may even buy one someday.

I completely agree but they are not for everyone. I love mine and i have a few

 

[Rat Rod]

How are Basmans when it comes to ground clearance?

Do you have to run dink cranks to keep from launching yourself around the turns?

 

[Flying Zombie]

Id use a Flying-O, but hey.. its in the name ^.6

 

[deven_science]

How are Basmans when it comes to ground clearance?

Do you have to run dink cranks to keep from launching yourself around the turns?

Most put triple trees on them, so you can run the trees a little longer to give yourself more clearance, if more is wanted. Still, while the frame is low, most I know put 175s on there. The pedals are closer to the ground than your standard cruiser, sure, but the one I tested and got to play with never scraped.

 

[MIGZ]

How are Basmans when it comes to ground clearance?

Do you have to run dink cranks to keep from launching yourself around the turns?

Ground clearance can be an issue since they do run low to the ground. In my case its just second nature to not turn to the side where my pedal is down or pedal through a turn. This can be an issue for people who forget. But it worth the risk considering how well they ride when going straight.

On my bikes with low ground clearance I run plastic pedals just in case.