ConTENtious

[The Renaissance Man]

There is one thing that has been bugging me Mike that you have the ability to correct and the time is soon before you get to the paint stage. The dual brake alignment problem can be corrected by creating a new mount instead of trying to piggy back off of the existing fender mount.

The problem is that the current mount is not in line with the axis of the wheel. My suggestion would be to make a new mount that will locate the two calipers in line with the axel. It's hard to say if you would ditch the existing fender mount all together or leave it and add a second bracket dedicated to only the brakes. You would be able to tell more about it after playing with the set-up.

Here's the idea:

Here's how it is now:

 

[CRASH]

What would you think about having a short rear fender mounting that attached somehow to the inside of the frame uprights instead of going down to the wheel plate thingy? Maybe by mounting it further forward on the fender so that the arms are vertical - maybe by using a strip inside the mudguard that uses the original rivet location rather than drilling a fresh hole?

It could make the rear of the bike seem cleaner, with more free air space at the back of the fender.

If you're referring to where I held the set up for the first pic, don't pay attention to that. I wasn't paying attention to where I held it for the first pic. I put it in the right spot for the second pic.

 

[CRASH]

...Here's the idea...

I was all over that in the initial design phase. Then when I actually managed to build the caliper and started playing with it, I was bouncing that concept around. During my research I found that the '68 Screamer Mk1, which is a similar backend to this bike, is set up just like I have it. And their angles vary from picture to picture. So I think I can try to adjust it more "down" to align with more with the axis of the wheel. Since I've already decided to go this route, it's too late to change because of the lead time I'll have with the chrome. I need to wrap up the mock-up, make final decisions, then get parts off to the plating shop to have them back in time for assembly before the deadline.

Good looking out! I like the way your brain works!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

I should have spoken up three weeks ago when it first came up. I was not going to bring it up but I finally decided to anyway.

I'm confident that you will make it work either way.

 

[CRASH]

No worries. I am able adjust it a bit so it’s closer to the axis. I’ll get pictures later.

 

[CRASH]

So with an overwhelming landslide vote of 2 to 1, I set up option 1, but with the Eagle.

 

[CRASH]

So this is how the brake level mounts. I was hoping it would mount closer to the bar, but here we are.

So I’m going to have the housing come out and get wrapped under the tape into the top curve, then coming out the bottom and route to the calipers. I’m going to set that up tomorrow to make sure that works. I’m soaking a lever in evaporust to use for the front that I think might match decent.

 

[RustySprockets]

So, what's your plan for cabling the doubles?

 

[twojs.bike]

1

 

[CRASH]

So, what's your plan for cabling the doubles?

Figuring that out today

 

[CRASH]

I started the brake housing journey this afternoon and I quickly ran into an unforeseen issue. The brake pads won’t make contact with the rim because the caliper arms are hitting the fender.

I don’t know how the ‘68 Screamer dealt with this, but I don’t have time to try to figure that out. I only see two options:

1) Longer post arms. But a quick search brought up no threaded solution, and certainly nothing that looked authentic.

2) modify the fender by bending it in slightly to accommodate the brakes.

2 is probably the easiest solution, but the Screamer didn’t have a special fender, so I don’t get it.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

I started the brake housing journey this afternoon and I quickly ran into an unforeseen issue. The brake pads won’t make contact with the rim because the caliper arms are hitting the fender.
View attachment 250904

I don’t know how the ‘68 Screamer dealt with this, but I don’t have time to try to figure that out. I only see two options:

1) Longer post arms. But a quick search brought up no threaded solution, and certainly nothing that looked authentic.

2) modify the fender by bending it in slightly to accommodate the brakes.

2 is probably the easiest solution, but the Screamer didn’t have a special fender, so I don’t get it.

Try removing the mount and squeezing each of the calipers over the fender by hand to see if they will clear from a more centered location.



*EDIT* I believe that you need a different type of caliper. I looked at mine and it appears to have a much wider opening than yours where the fender passes through.

 

[CRASH]

Yes, you’re using the Japanese steel “fish” brake. I’m using west German Excel “Grand Prix’s”. Both were actually correct. But I don’t have the right size fish brakes, unfortunately.

 

[RustySprockets]

How much extra room do you need? Is it possible to run a spacer between the pad and the caliper surface?

 

[CRASH]

How much extra room do you need? Is it possible to run a spacer between the pad and the caliper surface?

That’s option 1. But so far no luck finding threaded posts

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Yes, you’re using the Japanese steel “fish” brake. I’m using west German Excel “Grand Prix’s”. Both were actually correct. But I don’t have the right size fish brakes, unfortunately.

The front brake on mine is the Excel also. I wondered why there were two types used on Sid but now it makes sense considering the difference in wheel and fender sizes from front to rear.

There's always something new to learn!

 

[RustySprockets]

Something like this maybe? I think the existing fasteners are M6, but don't quote me on that.

 

[CRASH]

The front brake on mine is the Excel also.

That's a Raceur. It's an 890 I believe. (for 890mm of arm length). The Grand Prix had two sizes I believe. 1080 and 990. I'm not 100% on those. I've found no written proof, just my own empirical evidence.

 

[CRASH]

Something like this maybe? I think the existing fasteners are M6, but don't quote me on that.

View attachment 250950

M6 is correct. I've never seen those before. I found some on Ebay as Male to Female hex spacers, but they all come from China and wouldn't arrive till mid-Nov. I wonder if Ace or Lowes carries them. Again, I've never seen them, but I haven't looked. I checked their websites and found nothing.
All this gave me an idea. I've got small round spacers at work. I can get them drilled and threaded for M6, then use a M6 bolt to mount them to the caliper. I could have that done Monday. I think that's the direction I'm going to go.

Thanks RS! I would have been stuck on that a while and would have probably ended up trying to bend the fender and may have screwed it up!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

M6 is correct. I've never seen those before. I found some on Ebay as Male to Female hex spacers, but they all come from China and wouldn't arrive till mid-Nov. I wonder if Ace or Lowes carries them. Again, I've never seen them, but I haven't looked. I checked their websites and found nothing.
All this gave me an idea. I've got small round spacers at work. I can get them drilled and threaded for M6, then use a M6 bolt to mount them to the caliper. I could have that done Monday. I think that's the direction I'm going to go.

Thanks RS! I would have been stuck on that a while and would have probably ended up trying to bend the fender and may have screwed it up!

McMaster-Carr has very fast shipping. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/f...ic-to-metric-male-female-hex-thread-adapters/