Corvette 3 speed hub

[Spokeshave]

I have a 1960 Corvette 3 speed that I'm tearing down for a rebuild. I assumed the rear hub was a Sturmey/ Archer. It's stamped Schwinn approved made in Austria and nothing else. Is it a Sturmey ? If not what is it and is it worth keeping?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bendix]

I have a 1960 Corvette 3 speed that I'm tearing down for a rebuild. I assumed the rear hub was a Sturmey/ Archer. It's stamped Schwinn approved made in Austria and nothing else. Is it a Sturmey ? If not what is it and is it worth keeping?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

doesn't sound like a sturmey archer- they're marked as such quite plainly even when they're on schwinns (and made in england). maybe an old torpedo 3 speed? if the shifter and cable are ok i suppose you may as well rebuild it and see what happens- but i'm the wrong guy to ask as i'm not a 3s hub fan- i'd toss it and the handbrakes and lace in a bendix red stripe... :mrgreen:

 

[gcrank1]

A three speed can make a very good sgl. spd, and some are even coaster brake. With the typical internal ratios 2nd is your 1:1, so you can change the cog to get your comfort level just like on a Redband. If you have a functioning 3sd something like a 21 or 22 T rear will make low a real digger, 2nd a nice city gear and 3rd more like a tallish geared Redband. Usually 3rd is quite an overdrive with the common 18T.
If the wheel is good otherwise, go ahead and try it out. I open the oil port and hose in a good bit of WD-40 and ride a bit. Things usually start to loosen up and work pretty good right away. If nothing else, its a good flush for your teardown.
If your wheels are bad those on sale Huffy cruisers with the coaster brake are cheap enough you can just buy one for the wheelset and probably bolt them on.

 

[hubgearfreak]

I assumed the rear hub was a Sturmey/ Archer. It's stamped Schwinn approved made in Austria and nothing else. Is it a Sturmey ?

i think it's a clone, made either under licence or after the patent ran out

http://www.lafn.org/~dave/trans/bicycle/styria.html#s1

for technical help on the rebuilding of an SA hub, go to the tech pages here....http://www.togglechaintour.co.uk/

don't put WD40 in your hub.

 

[gcrank1]

I guess I should clarify that.........the WD-40 is to soften up/loosen up the (often) hardened crud in the innards, not to be a substitute for the proper lube. You dont have to go pedal it for miles, just up and back on your street while shifting and making it go. Also make sure the shifter and cable are free to move. The light bodied stuff will run out some while spinning, so you might want to watch for it and wipe down (I stick a rag under the hub after I park it for a few days). Once you know its working and has promise you can decide how deep you want to go. Mine have all worked, so I open the oil port, turn it to the down side and let it drain more, then put in some 'proper lube'.
BTW, the old tale about WD-40 'gumming things up' is not true. What 'gumming' may occur is when the WD softens up the crud inside and there isnt enough, or a chance for it, to float it out. Once the carrier element of the WD evaporates off the leftover crud is the 'gummies'; same stuff that was in there, just not as bad as it was.

 

[hubgearfreak]

BTW, the old tale about WD-40 'gumming things up' is not true.

never heard of that one. what i did hear was that WD40 is a water displacer. what i also did hear was that sturmey archer recommend SAE30 monograde oil without additives for their oil port equipped hubs, and sturmey grease for their greased hubs..
if you've got a hub gear - strip it down, wash all parts well in parrafin (or kerosene, if you're from one of the old colonies) let them dry and re-assemble with the correct lubricant according to the factory manual and/or the videos in the link below.

again, there's more links and advice than you can shake a stick at - http://www.togglechaintour.co.uk - or ignore me and temporarily dilute the old crap with a proprietry water displacer. it's your hub and it's your choice 8)

 

[gcrank1]

You are right, of course. Disassemble, clean and lube........all the old stuff should be redone.
Questions are when and by whom (not everyone who acquires a multi gear hub bike has the skills to tear it apart before any use at all, or may want to 'test ride' a bike before purchase, in which case any lube may be better than no lube)
I was just trying to give a tip that would be easy enough to do that somebody wouldnt just take the bike and run down the road with basically dry bearings and sticky internals........
WD-40 is more than just a moisture displacer; If interested I refer you first to Wikipedia, WD-40, specifically the 'Function' paragraph, then to 'Google up' the WD-40 Technical Data Sheet, then perhaps the Material Safety Data Sheet, all easily available online.