COTTER PIN CRANKS ON AMERICAN BOTTOM BRACKET

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What do I need to mount These

TO THESE.....

 
You need conversion cups. They press in and have threads on the inner diameter to take an english thread bottom bracket. That'll let you use a cottered bottom bracket. That is a mighty small front chaining on those cranks.
 
You need conversion cups. They press in and have threads on the inner diameter to take an english thread bottom bracket. That'll let you use a cottered bottom bracket. That is a mighty small front chaining on those cranks.

Those are captain's cranks off a tandem, SSG. The tiny ring was intended to synchronize the fore and aft pedals, not propel the bike directly.
 
-----Does some one sell the conversion cups with all the guts-parts i.e. axle, bearings etc etc.??-------------
I think the sprocket is a 25T, I have a dished 14T rear sprocket ...this is one of my Experiments. Ill try a go kart chain [1/2 in pitch x 5/16th i think....
 
WOW cman, thanks for All that cool info.....My head is spinning with idea's now......:crazy2:
 
I despise cottered cranks. I'd have to be well paid to put them on a bike that didn't come that way, and you'd get no guarantee. That being said, the stuff listed in cman's post is about the only way to put them on a one piece bracket.
 
Those parts eliminate thread and bearing size difference problems, but another possible problem remains as to the standard to which the pedal's crank interface was made. o_OThey are not all interchangeable either. :39: Good luck my friend.
 
Deorman makes some good points: If the crankarms are French, you'll need French pedals. Otherwise, normal 9/16"x20tpi pedals will work....even if those are Raleigh cranks. (I'm thinking they're not, but I'm trying to cover the bases.) I also agree that cottered cranks are a PITA, although the old ones were a lot better than the more recent ones, and I'd probably like'm more if I owned a proper cotter press. That being said, the local co-op has a PArk cotter press (no longer in production) that I'm welcome to use whenever-- or, more accurately, the 2 times/week that the share is open.

If your mind isn't already made up, you might want to run an OPC with the smallest-possible sprocket instead of this cottered thing. That'd be cheaper and easier, at any rate. I get it, though--- I do things the expensive/hard way from time to time, too....
 
The Crankarms are from a Schwinn tandem, so there should be no problem there.

That sealed BB is a cool solution but the spindle/axle may be the wrong length. It will probably be best to assemble from the cups and bearing solution, so that he can get the correct spindle length.
 
I really don't like cottered cranks either. I put a bike together for my wife with them and went through a few sets of cotter pins .... breaking off the nuts. I was checking to see what the conversion was all about and iff it was any better than my last experience. My original plan when I got them is to cut off the arms and just use the sprocket on a OPC. But I cleaned them off and found the Schwinn script, figured I'd try and save them. I'm thinkin' of trying the conversion ,but iff its' a hassle, the hack saw is coming out..:cool:
 
the sprocket off this set is now a rear sprocket on one of my bikes

So I'm going to try the conversion as an Experiment...I really don't like those cotter pins they seem so cheaply made. But if it works, cooool , if not, not too much money wasted and I get to hack something to save something....
 

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