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ingola

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With the muscle bike build off a month away and the offroad in January wondered what to do then my scrapper freind dropped off a pair of matching Raleigh superbes
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Locking forks
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Dynohub generator ]
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Amazon's 15 bucks
I have an extra one I should have shown you where I grind it a bit so the bolt goes flush. There a way to do it with a pipe and ball been hammer not my favorite but works
 
I do, I just reverse the ball joint splitter and squeeze it back in I've never had a problem.
I've also used the cheap ones on Amazon work fine although you will read different.
 
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I have been using my bench vice and a spare socket. Works, but requires the bike to be stripped down.

Do you re-use the cotter pins? I read that they aren’t designed to be re-used, however I have been re-using them.
I broke 2 vices…. I still have a crank with stuck bolts On one of my spare bikes.
 
I have been using my bench vice and a spare socket. Works, but requires the bike to be stripped down.

Do you re-use the cotter pins? I read that they aren’t designed to be re-used, however I have been re-using them.
As long as the threads are good, I've always reused them with no problem. I retighten them after a few hours of riding.
 
I learned bike repair working in a multi brand bike store in the 1970s. Cotter pins were a major part of the training since most of the cheaper bikes had them. I learned all the methods of removal/installation for Raleighs, french bikes, italian bikes and Japanese bikes.

Riding on loose cotter pins will ruin them. Causes gouges in the flat surface. Those should be replaced. And if you bugger up the threads removing them means replace the pins.

Cotter pins were made in different sizes. 8.5mm, 9mm, 9.5mm, etc. Italian bikes used thinner pins. Raleighs use the larger size.

The bike industry did make a variety of cotter pin presses. Var cast iron lever presses, BSA made a clone, Park Tool had a screw type similar to a c-clamp. Mark Stonich of the Twin Cities made and sold a batch of them about 15-20 years ago. Bike Smith has some for sale
https://www.bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/The VAR is made of cast iron and we learned the hard way you never use a hammer on one.
A hammer and punch works if the crank is well supported and your aim is excellent. Regular C clamps have too course of threads to get the necessary force. if you make your own, fine thread bolts will allow you to to get more pressure on the pin.

here is a vid on making a cheap press




var.cotter.pin.press.png


Bike.Smith.cotter.pin.press.jpg


park.tool.cotter.pin.press.jpg
 
I learned bike repair working in a multi brand bike store in the 1970s. Cotter pins were a major part of the training since most of the cheaper bikes had them. I learned all the methods of removal/installation for Raleighs, french bikes, italian bikes and Japanese bikes.

Riding on loose cotter pins will ruin them. Causes gouges in the flat surface. Those should be replaced. And if you bugger up the threads removing them means replace the pins.

Cotter pins were made in different sizes. 8.5mm, 9mm, 9.5mm, etc. Italian bikes used thinner pins. Raleighs use the larger size.

The bike industry did make a variety of cotter pin presses. Var cast iron lever presses, BSA made a clone, Park Tool had a screw type similar to a c-clamp. Mark Stonich of the Twin Cities made and sold a batch of them about 15-20 years ago. Bike Smith has some for sale
https://www.bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/The VAR is made of cast iron and we learned the hard way you never use a hammer on one.
A hammer and punch works if the crank is well supported and your aim is excellent. Regular C clamps have too course of threads to get the necessary force. if you make your own, fine thread bolts will allow you to to get more pressure on the pin.

here is a vid on making a cheap press




View attachment 245106

View attachment 245107

View attachment 245108

I made one similar before but have discovered the ball joint splitter seems to work the best
 

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