Cracks around weld on quadangle - ?

[BDC]

I was hoping it was just the cheese paint, but the horizontal line that has appeared recently makes me think otherwise.

What to do? It's loaded with premium components. Repair - or replace frame - or just keep riding it?

I don't weld - so it would need a shop.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Well worth saving but I don’t think you’ll have much luck trying to get that color blended post repair. Probably get it stripped, inspect for others (likely), weld them up well and repaint/decal

 

[BDC]

Thinking, By the time I get it repaired and painted ...

I might just do a frame transplant with all the Profile Racing and Bullseye components.

The STR is actually a bit small for me, so this would make sense from a fit point - particularly as I recently sold my Big Ripper.

I could probably recoup some selling the damaged quad frame and forks to someone who could repair too.

 

[BDC]

But this would suit all the top end take offs better :-0

The cranks are a $grand in the local currency now.

 

[JA331]

Damn. That’s a shame. Is the seat mast cracked or has the weld simply broken away from it?

 

[BDC]

Damn. That’s a shame. Is the seat mast cracked or has the weld simply broken away from it?

I think both - the weld cracked and it's taken the tube with it.

 

[us56456712]

I was hoping it was just the cheese paint, but the horizontal line that has appeared recently makes me think otherwise.

What to do? It's loaded with premium components. Repair - or replace frame - or just keep riding it?

I don't weld - so it would need a shop.

View attachment 284126
View attachment 284127

Drill a small hole in the end of the cracks. This usually stops them from spreading. I can’t tell where the cracks go or where they are from your photos so this might not be appropriate.

 

[JA331]

A feel for you mate. Did you buy the bike new? If so I would take it up with the SE Bikes distributor here. In my opinion that has been caused by a design flaw in the frame or improper welding. To repair it nicely the mast needs to be replaced and a gusset should connect the mast to the stays. You would have to strip the entire frame to refinish it as it is most likely powder coated.

I wanted a 29” myself and remember reading a review a few years back of one of the limited edition quadangle bikes and the reviewer made mention of the welding or lack of it on certain parts of the frame.

 

[Captain Awesome]

But this would suit all the top end take offs better :-0

The cranks are a $grand in the local currency now.

View attachment 284180

If you’re willing to go that far what about a Laird or a JTT frame?

 

[BDC]

If you’re willing to go that far what about a Laird or a JTT frame?

Or a Bassett - problem is I'd have to import them myself and the freight to Aus adds a lot to the cost. The S&M is available locally and I like their stuff.

I'm undecided at the moment anyway - no rush - I have other bikes dontchaknow

A feel for you mate. Did you buy the bike new? If so I would take it up with the SE Bikes distributor here. In my opinion that has been caused by a design flaw in the frame or improper welding. To repair it nicely the mast needs to be replaced and a gusset should connect the mast to the stays. You would have to strip the entire frame to refinish it as it is most likely powder coated.

I wanted a 29” myself and remember reading a review a few years back of one of the limited edition quadangle bikes and the reviewer made mention of the welding or lack of it on certain parts of the frame.

Not that stressed - it's done good service and I do give it a small air workout occasionally.

I think I burnt the recourse bridge when I added the lay back seat post. Extra frame stress - but I needed it to fit on it.

And yes - I bought it new in 2016, and spent thousands upgrading it - fortunately the profile Racing cranks and bullseye hubs and pedals etc etc are transplantable.

Never had any illusions about SE quality though - basically why everything got upgraded. I'm seeing an opportunity to build something that fits better.

Maybe.

Drill a small hole in the end of the cracks. This usually stops them from spreading. I can’t tell where the cracks go or where they are from your photos so this might not be appropriate.

Cheers - before I make any decisions on what to do I'll take it to my shop - who I trust - and take advice.

 

[JA331]

Not that stressed - it's done good service and I do give it a small air workout occasionally.

I think I burnt the recourse bridge when I added the lay back seat post. Extra frame stress - but I needed it to fit on it.

And yes - I bought it new in 2016, and spent thousands upgrading it - fortunately the profile Racing cranks and bullseye hubs and pedals etc etc are transplantable.

Never had any illusions about SE quality though - basically why everything got upgraded. I'm seeing an opportunity to build something that fits better.

Maybe.

I have the same issue with my Fast Ripper being a little too small for me and need a layback post.

The S&M frames are nice but like your SE a little on the small side. Lux has the redline monocog on sale and it is available with a 21” top tube.

 

[JA331]

BTW, Redcliffe Cycles have the S&M 29 on ebay at $1499 with a coupon

 

[BDC]

BTW, Redcliffe Cycles have the S&M 29 on ebay at $1499 with a coupon

Oh thanks - I bought my Giant Fastroad there.

I'll have a look at LUX too.


I did - I like that redline heaps - but it won't accept a lot of the parts I'd strip off the quad - and I'd be paying for wheels and stuff I don't really want.

 

[BDC]

The top tube on the S&M is 23.5" - Ahhh - I just checked - it's basically the same size as a Big Ripper - different HT angle - 71deg BR - 69 S&M -

Edit - I was reading it wrong - there should be a little better clearance on the S&M.

 

[JA331]

The issue I see with the S&m is you will need a long seat post as the seat mast looks quite short.