Hello Rats, hope you are all enjoying nice spring weather!
The more I learn about bicycles and geometry, the more questions pop up in my old head.
Today's question reguards Q-Factor (I think that's the right term, how much clearance you have between the arm and the chainstays).
I know that BB width also affects Q-factor. Mine is square tapered.
I'm trying to find a single-ring crank that mates to a Sturmey Archer hub with a chainline of about 42mm-46mm depending on the cog (dished or not).
I have chainline figured out but the two crank options I currently have both hit the chainstays. A wider BB throws off chainline.
With the S-A hub I can't dish the wheel to help my problem. I thought about using ring spacers but that doesn't seem to be a great option.
I need W4 to match my CL needs while W5 clears my chainstays.
The problem-solving involved in bicycles is a big part of why I love wrenching on them.
Any advice is welcome.
Peace!
The more I learn about bicycles and geometry, the more questions pop up in my old head.
Today's question reguards Q-Factor (I think that's the right term, how much clearance you have between the arm and the chainstays).
I know that BB width also affects Q-factor. Mine is square tapered.
I'm trying to find a single-ring crank that mates to a Sturmey Archer hub with a chainline of about 42mm-46mm depending on the cog (dished or not).
I have chainline figured out but the two crank options I currently have both hit the chainstays. A wider BB throws off chainline.
With the S-A hub I can't dish the wheel to help my problem. I thought about using ring spacers but that doesn't seem to be a great option.
I need W4 to match my CL needs while W5 clears my chainstays.
The problem-solving involved in bicycles is a big part of why I love wrenching on them.
Any advice is welcome.
Peace!