~ CRITTER ~ 1936 Schwinn Klunker
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Yeah I've been posting in the Klunkerz group lately. Its hard to document a build there though.. just highlights.
So at (roughly) 170mm from the center of my BB shell, my stays are only 106mm outside/outside. With Whites 108mm BB (128.5 clearance) I'd have about 11mm clearance on each side. Should be good right? I'll be back at the shop tomorrow, and I'll triple check it anyway.Actually, the cheaper way to find out is to check the tech docs.http://www.whiteind.com/tech-instructions-pdfs/ (click on "Square Taper Chain Stay Clearance Guide," towards the bottom right of the page.)
If the chainstay clearance is 128.5mm with a 108mm spindle, then it would theoretically be 123.5mm with a 103mm spindle. So, measure the clearance you'd need at the stays about 170mm from the center of the BB shell. I just possibly saved you a couple hundred dollars lol. FWIW, i bet it will clear, but it'll probably be tight. Definitely measure before you order.... those cranks ain't cheap.
HTH
-Rob
I was thinking about pedals for this little piggy when I looked up and saw "Old Soul", my unfinished Build Off 8 bike, hanging from the rafters and realized it had the pedals I need for this build! ....ROBBED! 
They're cheap Hong Kong CycleTrack platform pedals from eBay, but man do they spin smooth!
Justin
They're cheap Hong Kong CycleTrack platform pedals from eBay, but man do they spin smooth!
Justin
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Yes, it would definitely clear, but it's going to put your chainline at 45mm, which is pretty far outboard if you're trying to de-space the X-RDF to 110 and run a single freewheel. You could space out the hub with spacers on the non-drive side and achieve that chainline, but then you're brake reaction arm would be a a l'il bit inboard of the NDS chainstay. I think the easiest bet would be to run a BB with a 103mm spindle, which would have your chainline about 1.5mm off (instead of 4mm--- that much diagonal chain is noisy, plus it wears down sprockets and chain quicker) and then you could leave the hub and stays "normal" for the bike. And, you'd still have a theoretical 8.5mm clearance at the cranks/stays. If you're dead-set on running a high-dollar US-made BB set, Phil Wood has what you need--just be sure to get the "JIS" flavor, not the "ISO.". Otherwise, a nice Shimano UN54 comes in 103mm JIS, and that'd suit you fine.
I just grabbed and measured my closest cruiser frame at 170mm from the BB up the stays, and it was like 121mm side to side! But, that's a Worksman; they're pretty ridiculous bikes LOL.
HTH
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I rebuilt another Bendix manual for one of my friends and that didn't work as well as mine did originally. Mine used to shift real well, very snappy but the brakes were weak. I even raced it but I guess I was lucky that it held up through the race. My buddies is grindy and shifts poorly.
I think it's stenciling w paint mask, he build really clean!
Yeah that was just a teaser pic with paint over the stencil. I'll have some pics later today of the painted frame & fork. Black & Mango..(VW color)
Figured you seem to do it right first time around, no half way to get redone later.
Thanks again for the info 808! No, I'm not dead set on using a top end US made BB. I'd be just fine with the Shimano unit. I need to cut $$ where I can... because I AM dead set on using White Industries drive train otherwise!
Cover bare metal frame/fork in epoxy primer, then high build primer, sand. Paint stenciled areas black, lay down stencils (sweat). Paint frame/fork mango color. Carefully pull stencils and lay down four coats of clear, hang & wait a couple days. Wet sand frame/fork paying special attention to stenciled areas. Polish frame/fork with a cutting compound, then a buffing compound, then spay wax to a high luster. Sand and polish sling shot stem (..because it has to look as good as the paint. Yes you've opened a giant can of worms.) Open a beer, stand back and say, "Dang that looks good!".
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Dang! That looks good!
Luke.
Luke.
Great bike! Gonna be a blast.to ride!!
I have those hubs in one of my Felt cruisers - absolutely excellent quality - the front drum has zero play - notsomuch with the shimano equivalent.
That bike is shaping up to be one nice ride !
Thumbs up to your build!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That bike is shaping up to be one nice ride !
Thumbs up to your build!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I gotta agree; all of the Sturmey-Archer stuff I've messed with since the SunRace merger has been really good. The later Brit-era stuff was pretty dodgy. The older Brit-made stuff was excellent, but some of the modern advances (such as the sealed bearings in these front hubs, and also in the thread-on freewheel and cassette versions of the rear hub, are nice modern conveniences.
That wheelset is going to be nice!
Luke.
Luke.
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I have one of these SA brakes on my Snyder wishbone klunker. This is a very weak brake, can't be locked up, but the bike is much more ridable with it than without it. My Gigant front drum is more powerful but you can't lock that one up either. It's got a Nexus 3 speed which is starting to be a little dicy shifting but it has lasted 3 years and I never pause when shifting uphill under power so I am quite impressed that it lasted this long. It's on the way out. They are a lot of fun and if you practice enough on them you can ride where many people can't. I don't use my kunkers with coaster brakes on trails with a lot of technical descents as the drum gets too hot to touch, so I avoid these. This frame won't accept 2.1 inch knobbies but 2.1 street tires fit. I get quite a few pinch flats on my klunkers. They ride better with low pressure and are really rough with 30 pounds. There is a sweet spot that works pretty well as far as pressure goes but you have to experiment to find it. I weigh about 165 riding weight and for me it is about 28 pounds. I still flatten a tire pretty hard against the rim now and then but I usually avoid pinch flats. Any flat is a real pain to fix on this as it takes a lot to remove the wheel from the bike. I leave the wheel on and open up one side and remove the tube, find the hole, patch it with a glueless patch and put the tube back in; no removal of the wheel on the trail. I would be interested to hear how well your headset works. Mine work loose after about 5 miles so I finally cured that by using Locktight Red. These street tires are fine as long as it is dry. I have all the stuff to make a Hybrid including a set of Mavic canti brakes for the front, drum rear. I have had this stuff for years but have not gotten around to a build. You are inspiring me to build a hybrid.Front hub came in yesterday. I was a little leery on what the quality of these SA hubs would be like. So far, I'm impressed! Looks tough as nails too!
Justin
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