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It is now a rideable bike. The chain doesn't fit perfectly on the much older chain ring so it makes a bit of noise. Other then that it's smooth and comfortable.
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This is the only chain tensioner I had laying around. It's not the best looking option, but it adds charector, it's free and it works great.
 
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Banging out a rear fender. The goal is to make it look not perfect. like someone made it real quick in their garage a long time ago. This started off life as a 60s 3 speed fender. Like many of the other posts in this thread, I forgot to take a picture before I started cutting it up and reshaping it.
 
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Decided to add some graphics. Again, I wanted them to look like they were done by hand a long time ago. I made my own template/ stencil out of masking tape I used White House paint and went over it with steel wool and a rag made from an old pair of jeans. To brown it up a bit I tried that thing where you put steel wool in water, it worked pretty well. The pin striping was done with a sharpie. And then several clear coats were applied.
 
Nice work on the darts / rat-ification of the frame!
 
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The final step is to replace the new shiny pedals that I had on it with some proper not too shiny block pedals. Unfortunately, the only block pedals I have had 9/16" bolts on them so I had to take them all apart and swap them out. Which isn't too hard, but it's anoying work. Notice the barings scatered all over the place.
 
Don't be insulted if I'm telling you something you already know, but, just in case, rotate your crank slowly through a complete revolution while checking chain tension. looking for a tight spot. Once found, adjust your chain there so that visible slack is gone, but the chain can be easily deflected 1/2" or so halfway between the sprockets. You may have a little visible slack with the crank in the opposing position, but it's better than excessive tension.
:forum:
 
deorman said:
Don't be insulted if I'm telling you something you already know, but, just in case, rotate your crank slowly through a complete revolution while checking chain tension. looking for a tight spot. Once found, adjust your chain there so that visible slack is gone, but the chain can be easily deflected 1/2" or so halfway between the sprockets. You may have a little visible slack with the crank in the opposing position, but it's better than excessive tension.
:forum:
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No offense taken. I appreciate the suggestion. I tried loosening it a bit, but I should probably loosen it more. I will give it a shot tomorrow.
 

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