BO15 Cyrus the Virus

[kingfish254]

I REALLY dig that you are using a bike wheel for your pipe bends!
This is one sexy build.

 

[Psychographic]

I want to thank you all for the comments, it helps to keep me motivated.

The risers for my bars came yesterday. When I opened the box I thought they were going to be way too big, but I think they look good on the bike. They almost went in the garbage as the machining on the main bolts and lower pieces felt like they were sand casted instead of machined. This almost ruined one of them. After some cleaning up they now work fine.

I also started on the templates for a tank, the debate I have is to make it separate or build it into the top tube.

I should clean up before taking pics!

 

[Psychographic]

My Electra came with one of those.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Andy, could you take a measurement for me? I need to know the distance from the face of the smallest cog, to the face of the derailleur mount.

TIA

 

[Psychographic]

I REALLY dig that you are using a bike wheel for your pipe bends!
This is one sexy build.

You use what ya got, right?

 

[Psychographic]

I cut off a drop out from the Rollfast, bent it to 90 degrees and clamped it in place. Then I dug out a random derailleur to see if the chain will clear the bottom of the frame. It clears the frame and not much ground clearance, but it's acceptable. I think there is too much slack in the chain, if I tightened it up a bit, it would help. I won't know for sure until I have the freewheel and derailleur I plan to use.

 

[handyandy1100]

Andy, could you take a measurement for me? I need to know the distance from the face of the smallest cog, to the face of the derailleur mount.

TIA

Hope this helps. It's probably a metric measurement, but all I could find quick was a "regular" ruler.
From the face of the teeth to the derailleur mount is about a 1/4 inch.
A picture is supposed to be worth a 1000 words, so maybe one will help here...

 

[kingfish254]

Bar standoffs came out awesome!!!
The lines of that tank are just as sexy as the frame. They are gonna compliment each other well.

 

[Psychographic]

Hope this helps. It's probably a metric measurement, but all I could find quick was a "regular" ruler.
From the face of the teeth to the derailleur mount is about a 1/4 inch.
A picture is supposed to be worth a 1000 words, so maybe one will help here...

Thank you, that is a great help in giving me a starting point to making and mounting the derailleur mount.

Bar standoffs came out awesome!!!
The lines of that tank are just as sexy as the frame. They are gonna compliment each other well.

Thank you. I've never built a tank before, I hope I can pull this off.

 

[Psychographic]

If the hub bushing was welded to the axle, I'd have a roller right now. After I sat on it and did some pedaling, it's not to bad, comfort wise. Now that I'm happy with the positioning of the bars, pedals, and seat, it's time to stretch the seat 5".

Rather than waste a bunch of sheet metal to make my own seat, I decided to stretch an old one I have. After taking it apart and wire wheeling the foam off, it was time to make some marks. I'll be cutting it across and narrowing the front piece 1/2".

The same cuts are marked on the bottom pan.

The fronts tacked together.

I started adding the filler piece by tacking the top in place.

Next, I used some 5/8" tube to make the bends and tacked the sides.

The top pan tacked together and the sides trimmed.

It looked like rain, so I quit for the day. I'll take the pan to the shop I'm working at and use the shrinker/stretcher to curve the pan to match the top tube. Then it's time to hammer and dolly it to fine tune the shape.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Very cool.

 

[Psychographic]

The bottom seat pan is stretched and it fits! After I put the curves in it, I'll figure out how I want to mount it. I'm deciding if I want to use some springs on it.

 

[Psychographic]

I couldn't help myself, more cutting, grinding, and welding. I'll fill the triangles in with sheetmetal.

The mailman was good to me today.

I'm not sure if this is the one I'll be using. A new friend hooked me up with another derailleur, I'll decide which one to use when it gets here,

Hopefully this will help with hills.

I'm beginning to think I should have named this "Spyke the Tryke".

 

[SSG]

Everything on this bike looks sharp.

 

[Fv2]

Dig the tank design you laid out, fits the lines of the frame well.

 

[Psychographic]

It's too nice out to work on bikes today,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, almost.

I did make a bracket for the one derailleur out of 1/4" steel. I used an old Trek bike that I think has the same freewheel as a template. Luckily it seems that I can get it centered on the axle right where it needs to be. I just need to see if I can get it where it needs to be from left to right. Going to the right will be easy, depending on how far left might be hard as I will be at the end of the axle housing. It can be done, but I will need to mod this bracket or make another one.

The drill and tap for my brake rotor bolts came today, they are next to knock of the fab list.

I will now ask the RRB community for help. I need the adapters from the frame to the caliper. I see different shapes and front or rear ones. Seeing as I am making my own brackets off the axle tube, does it matter which ones I use?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

It’s about the radius from the axle to the mounting holes. Get that right and any CS/axle orientation/angle can work. And the distance between the two, of course. This is ISO mount. The link has other info.

http://blog.artscyclery.com/keeping-the-rubber-side-down/rubber-side-down-disc-brake-adapters/

 

[Psychographic]

Uh-Oh! My lack of fabrication knowledge has bit me where the sun don't shine. While welding the axle housing to the frame and adding the rear brace, things moved. It made more sense to me to brace everything, then cut out for the freewheel. I guess I was wrong. The ends in the center are not centered on the axle. I have to decide on how I want to go about straightening this out. I might have to cut some bars, add the bearings and hope it stays centered when I weld it back together.

 

[Psychographic]

It’s about the radius from the axle to the mounting holes. Get that right and any CS/axle orientation/angle can work. And the distance between the two, of course. This is ISO mount. The link has other info.

http://blog.artscyclery.com/keeping-the-rubber-side-down/rubber-side-down-disc-brake-adapters/

Thank you, but that didn't help me. I'm using 120mm discs. The calipers I'm using have the bolts in a vertical position, I want to make mounts that are horizontal. I've seen adapters that have this configuration, but I don't know if there is one size that would work better than another. The caliper and rotor fit inside the wheel so the smaller the adapter, the better. Making mounts that have the proper height is easy, centering it so the rotor is centered is the hard part. This is why I want to use and adjustable adapter.

 

[SpikeFC]

Thank you, but that didn't help me. I'm using 120mm discs. The calipers I'm using have the bolts in a vertical position, I want to make mounts that are horizontal. I've seen adapters that have this configuration, but I don't know if there is one size that would work better than another. The caliper and rotor fit inside the wheel so the smaller the adapter, the better. Making mounts that have the proper height is easy, centering it so the rotor is centered is the hard part. This is why I want to use and adjustable adapter.

For my electric ZZR I used adapters from Aliexpress. I'm still having problems with them till now (mostly with the front one), but for adjusting I use washers from V-brake shoes, the ones that are cone-shaped. It helps adjust height, and angle of the the caliper. If you are running mechanical discs, then you have a great field for adjustment. I'm running a hydraulic system, and for that, the best way to adjust the caliper is on a sqeezed brake handle, so that the caliper is in place.

 

[toro1978]

These are often used and tend to work well - they attach to the axle and the two small holes are for a coaster brake type clamp (to attach to the fork leg), but they are probably designed for rotors 160-180mm.

Your 120mm rotors might be an issue because the pads would have to be 2-3cm closer to the axle. But you could just cut and reweld it to the needed length. Or so I think, not too savvy on disk brakes
There is a bend so there might be a left and right side versions.