Determining Spoke Size

[wheelhorseman]

A friend of mine is replacing some spokes for me in my old Sears trike. Manny are loose or frozen up so we need to get a handful of new ones. How do you know what to buy? We have a bike shop about 20 miles away but the guy there said they cost about a buck each. Pretty expensive if we need many. The guy said they come in 1/8 inch increments and I need to bring one to match up. The only thing I know to do is take one to the shop then buy a couple. Then order a larger cheaper quanity from Ebay. Is there a way to measure and know the right size without going thru the bike shop? With the shop deal I would know tne exact size.

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[RustySprockets]

The measurement itself is no great mystery. Just measure length from the bend to the tip. Gauge is a simple measure of diameter in mm. Of course, a well equipped shop has specialty tools to take these measurements easily--nothing more advanced than a notched ruler and ring with various slots cut in it. For what it's worth, here's the legend:

gauge 13 = 2.3 mm
gauge 14 = 2.0 mm
gauge 15 = 1.8 mm
gauge 16 = 1.6 mm

Since this is a Sears product, I'll just assume these spokes are straight gauge.

 

[RustySprockets]

Another rat rodder provided this link a few days ago and, though I've never dealt with the company, their prices don't seem unreasonable--about 10 cents per spoke, INCLUDING the nipple, when purchased by the box full.

http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14G

Depending on how skilled your friend is, I'd recommend that you replace only one spoke at a time, using the proper spoke wrench and taking care not to over-tighten or under-tighten the repair. Otherwise, one risks throwing the wheel out of "true" (causing undesirable wobble).

 

[wheelhorseman]

Hes an old bike guy in his 70s and knows his bike stuff. He is not relaceing the wheel just replacing a few bad spokes. He has plenty of nipples. I think I may go get the trike and run it to the bike shop so they can size them. The measurements are too fine for me since its so tricky. No way I could tell diameter either.

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[RustySprockets]

Under the circumstances, that may be the best choice--you're only replacing a few bad ones. A full box would replace all the spokes on all three wheels. Here's an example of the proper measuring tool--a notched ruler--that makes the tricky task easy.

 

[dougfisk]

Another rat rodder provided this link a few days ago and, though I've never dealt with the company, their prices don't seem unreasonable...

http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14G

Wow, those are the lowest prices I have ever seen... perhaps they stick it to you on the shipping.

 

[DJ Bill]

Free shipping on orders over $150.....Did you check out their rim pricing? I think I have found the source of the new rims for the Swingbike! (and spokes for my WWII Columbia, possibly!)

 

[Bicycle808]

Those spokes are cheap b/c they're cheapie spokes. They're not even stainless steel. that being said, $15 for 144 SS spokes is a nice price, too....

 

[wheelhorseman]

My old tryke needs a bunch replaced. They are 242mm. I called Husky from that above link they have 245s and said they might work. Can get 144 spokes for 22.00. I found cheap 243 and 244mm on Ebay. Will slightly longer spokes work?

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[dougfisk]

My old tryke needs a bunch replaced. They are 242mm. I called Husky from that above link they have 245s and said they might work. Can get 144 spokes for 22.00. I found cheap 243 and 244mm on Ebay. Will slightly longer spokes work?

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Examine the end of the nipple inside the rim... if the ends of the 242's are flush or protruding, no, that is your upper limit. If the ends can't be seen, stick something down the hole to see how deep they are... that is your tolerance for extra length.

If all else fails, some people have used washers on the inside of the rim to take up a little length, ...or to grind off the extra length that protrudes.

 

[wheelhorseman]

Thanks doug. The 243s on Ebay are my best value. My rims are 28 spoke not 36. There is a seller on Ebay who sells customm cut lengths 19.99 for 36 count with free shipping. Another option.

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[RustySprockets]

Agreed. Most spoke applications allow for a little wiggle room, but be attentive. The more spokes replaced, the more magnified the error becomes...especially when oversized/undersized spokes are positioned opposite each other. The 243s aren't just your best value, they're also your best bet for fit. Spoke length of 241, if available, would also be safely usable, in my opinion--just a thread or two less purchase at the nipple.

Just follow Doug's advice and have your wheel builder ensure that no spoke tips protrude beyond the nipple. Otherwise, a punctured tube is pretty much inevitable.

 

[wheelhorseman]

I picked up 36 spokes on Ebay for 10 bucks shipped free. They came super fast. Bought them Sat. in Cali and they were in my S.C. mailbox Monday morning.

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[mikeeebikey]

I am only going to say it once, with spokes you get what you pay for.
Grey spokes always rust, turn grey, and snap rather than stretch.
Carry on gentlemen, excellent discussion.

 

[wheelhorseman]

Who cares if they rust there going on a 15.00 tryke. Why pay a bike shop 1.00 each? I guess all dept store bikes use the most expensive spokes made because I have had 100 of them and never saw one with a spoke issue.

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[Bicycle808]

Imagine, if you will, an option that exists between a $1 SS spoke at the LBS and a super-cheap plated spoke that will rust! There is some fertile middle ground here, especially if you're ordering online. Like, for instance, SS 14g Sapim spokes from danscomp, in any length you desire, for $0.25/spoke, nipple included. Mikeeeey didn't specifically call out the spokes you got, but he is correct: "saving" money on uber-cheap, plated spokes is false economy.

If you've never seen a dept store with spoke issues, then you might need to learn some more about what constitutes a "spoke issue". I've seen very few dept store bikes without some degree of spoke issues.

 

[mikeeebikey]

Whoa Horseman, no insult I intended, sorry.
I have seen the worst of spokes and rims thru the 80s, they were building bikes cheaper and testing the limits. My fear is that stuff might still be available!
I built some beautiful campy hubbed wheels with plated spokes, they rusted. Makes the fine hubs look better....
Bikes that are to be flipped(I collect so wheels not for me) get grey spokes, I even have a selection of different patina to choose from.
But, the low end spokes may be a one true deal, oxidize so fast it's like they were welded!

 

[wheelhorseman]

No problems here Mike. The spokes were from Pacific Ave. Cycles in Santa Cruz. For what I want they are fine and will last as long as I need them. Tryke is just an old Sears so not high dollar. Will keep updating my progress. Slowly getting it ready for summer.

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[SILVERKINGPC]

Love the spoke discussion...I have to agree that you
get what you pay for...I think it is wise to get a quality
spoke when doing anything on a bike that you want to keep..
As far as the replacing individual spokes on your current
rim, just do one at a time, and if you are not
experienced at it, have someone help you.....
One of the biggest problems I run into when "fixing"
a wheel is that you will never really get it true if the spoke tensions were way loose everywhere and ridden like that for any length of time. For me, I like a clean running rim, for others, its ok "close enough". Another problem is he inability to true the other spokes and nipples because of seized threads...this can be sometimes loosened by torching the spoke and nipple until it moves. Usually if one is stuck, all are stuck. A good exercise for anyone learning the wheelbuilding skill...

 

[bart savage]

Great discussion....with all that's been said what's the the best source then for SS spokes & nipples for a reasonable cost?? I have 2 Dyno Roadsters that need them! Can someone confirm also the spoke size/length for the stock rims?