Electrical Question: How can I power a 6v lamp?

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This is the back of the lamp bulb by the way. One positive, one negative terminal. It's shown here outside of the housing.
lamp6v.jpg
 
Can you mount a decent sized 6V rechargeable down behind the seatpost (on top of where a kickstand usually bolts up); you could make up a nice little box, painted even flat black just kinda blends in, and again, run those discrete wires (but make sure they are a big enough gauge to carry that amperage!).
 
I think I'd have to use something that provides more push than a standard 6v battery anyway. Someone must have done this before succesfully on one of these old 6-8volt lamps. :idea:
 
I have a 6 volt sealed beam on my 1953 Hawthorne (my avatar) - it was original equipment. It is powered by a square 6 volt lantern battery which is inside the tank. It also poweres the horn. Since you know that will work for the light, maybe you should concentrate on mounting and/or disguising the battery.
 
Crassly said:
I have a 6 volt sealed beam on my 1953 Hawthorne (my avatar) - it was original equipment. It is powered by a square 6 volt lantern battery which is inside the tank. It also poweres the horn. Since you know that will work for the light, maybe you should concentrate on mounting and/or disguising the battery.
Really?? Hmm, an earlier poster said he retro fitted an auto 6v lamp to his bike, like I want to do, and used a standard 6v battery. It only lasted about an hour. I wonder if your 6v OE bicycle sealed beam pulls less current than a 6v automotive sealed beam.

I might go ahead and give it a go. If I'm ok with the results, I'll see about integrating a full size 6v battery onto the bike in a clever way. Thanks.
 
I would bet that the OEM sealed beam on the Hawthorne draws a good deal less current than an automotive lamp would. The lamp you have could be anywhere from 35-55w, so at 6V, that's 6 - 9 amps. Most bike lamps I've seen draw more like 2.5 - 3 amps, allowing someone to run it off a generator. I'd guess that the Hawthorne lamp is similar, just hooked to a battery.
 
Dont forget those sealed 6v lead acid batteries that are used for Power Wheels kiddie ride toys. Im sure they would have enough current capability to run that light. but once again your stuck with figuring out a way to hide it. :|

Ammo can
fake "oil bag"
custom box with decals on it
box made out of license plates
hanging tank

etc etc. :)
 
I just looked on Sturmey Arher's website looking for a front brake, and they have a front brake with a 6v dynamo that puts out 2.4 watts its a
XL-FDD

Specs for Sealed Cartridge 2.4W

• Voltage - 6V
• Output - 2.4W
• Hub Shell Material - A356 Aluminum
• Bearing Type - Sealed Cartridge
• Axle Diameter - 9mm
• Axle Length - 140.0mm
• Over Locknut Dimension - 100.0mm
• Spoke Holes - 36
• Pitch Circle Diameter - 109mm
• Center to Flange Right - 31.4mm
• Center to Flange Left - 28.0mm
• Flange Width - 55mm
• Offset - 1.7mm
I don't know if that's what you want a front brake? but it sounds like it would work...
 
It's good if your lamp only draws 2.5 amps. But if your lamp draws 6 amps (like the OP's), then it isn't going to cut it. But if you ran the hub generator, plus a tire friction generator on either side of a wheel, you could probably get there... :mrgreen:

RE: high/low beam on a bike being overkill, I dunno. Maybe. The Planet Bike LED headlights that I have on my road bike and my trail bike have flash/low/high modes. I use the flash on the road in daylight, the high beam in the dark and low when it's dusk/dawn (when there is some ambient light already and I want to conserve batteries). However, in the case of the OP, yes, that's overkill. But on the other hand, it would be a cool trick if what he's interested in is showing off...
 
I agree it would be trick for 'show' :D
I think the flash/low/high on the new stuff is mostly useful for extending battery life, at least that is how it works for me. If I ever get that old vintage light of mine on I think it will be upgraded to LED and the biggest batteries I can cram in the case; ie, rather than the 3 AAs I'll use cs or ds. If I rode in the dark a lot it would be a remote mounted sealed rechargeable. On the GT Duece there is a huge platform behind the seatpost/bottom bracket that a nicely done battery box could hide out in.
 
expjawa said:
I would bet that the OEM sealed beam on the Hawthorne draws a good deal less current than an automotive lamp would. The lamp you have could be anywhere from 35-55w, so at 6V, that's 6 - 9 amps. Most bike lamps I've seen draw more like 2.5 - 3 amps, allowing someone to run it off a generator. I'd guess that the Hawthorne lamp is similar, just hooked to a battery.
Yup, the lamp is probably a 35 watter. Doesn't say on the back, but that's the wattage I've been finding online for my lamp model number.
 
Ratfink1962 said:
Dont forget those sealed 6v lead acid batteries that are used for Power Wheels kiddie ride toys. Im sure they would have enough current capability to run that light. but once again your stuck with figuring out a way to hide it. :|

Ammo can
fake "oil bag"
custom box with decals on it
box made out of license plates
hanging tank

etc etc. :)

Good Ideas :!:
 
I'm probably not going to go with generators. I'd like to be able to switch the light on whether I'm moving, or not. I'm going to try to get creative with some F cell batteries or look into those power wheel batteries and do a "safe" hack to 'em.
 
I think I have a spare sealed beam for my Hawthorne somewhere, I'll see if I can find it and see if it says what wattage it is.
 
Crassly said:
I think I have a spare sealed beam for my Hawthorne somewhere, I'll see if I can find it and see if it says what wattage it is.
Cool. Wouldn't surprise me if it's much less than the 35w lamp I have. But, I could very well be wrong.
 

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