ELGIN TWIN 9

[MattiThundrrr]

Tim's Twin Tin?
Tem's Twen Ten?
Reilleybegtem?

 

[Reallybigtim]

I would like to get an original set of Elgin white grips for the bike. It has fake reproduction black ones on it now. One of the only non-original parts on the bike. Anyone?

 

[KJV]

Is this what you want ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/381863155375

 

[Reallybigtim]

Is this what you want ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/381863155375

No. The originals have the "ELGIN" name molded in to them. These are the closest reproductions I can find , but I want originals. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254818135216?hash=item3b54582cb0:g:dqcAAOSwhe9dx1p5

 

[Reallybigtim]

Well I am surprised that no one has asked if I am going to do a FREAK version of the Elgin. With that raised bottom bracket, it would have plenty of ground clearance. I also have my California Chopper forks that might look crazy on it also. One of these days I will try both sets of forks just for a photo op if for no other reason.

 

[kingfish254]

You know you are itching try this out as Freaky Friday Twin!!!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Some updated pics today. I installed a set of '39 Elgin painted wheels that came off of a curved-tube bike. The patina on them matches the bike very nicely. But these wheels do not have the cooling-fin hubs typically found on every Twin Bar model, which is a good thing. It accurately follows my idea of a how a (sub-base) Twin 10 model would have been equipped. I also installed the original seat which is in pretty good condition. Of course, the first mock-up received (my favorite) cream Fat Franks and Stingray apes. But I don't feel that the apes look right, considering that I am trying to invent a new "factory-built" model here. I might just have to put the original Torrington bars back on it (or something else just as appropriate). A cool feature is that the bike still has its correct Elgin axle adjusters in place. I am really liking the enhanced appearance of the frame with the fenders (and headlight) removed! View attachment 163094View attachment 163095View attachment 163096View attachment 163097

I have no idea of where you get your parts, but everything I think I’ve seen you do has these unique, amazing parts and unbelievable patina.

I have no idea how you do it!

 

[Reallybigtim]

I have no idea of where you get your parts, but everything I think I’ve seen you do has these unique, amazing parts and unbelievable patina.

I have no idea how you do it!

The best deals I have found have been at bicycle swap meets. I make sure to get there very early and buy everything I like. I also go to garage sales, flea markets, car shows, motorcycle swap meets, anywhere that bikes might be found. There are also some local guys that I keep in touch with that call me if they get anything old and cool.

 

[Reallybigtim]

I have no idea of where you get your parts, but everything I think I’ve seen you do has these unique, amazing parts and unbelievable patina.

I have no idea how you do it!

With the Elgin Twin I'm building, I had previously acquired 7 or 8 prewar Elgin curved tube bikes. And I knew that I was getting this Twin before I sold everything. I just kept the parts that I needed to build the Twin this way I wanted. Plus I kept a stash of my favorite parts when I sold all of my bikes.

 

[Reallybigtim]

On many of my builds, I typically prefer a smaller chainring with longer cranks for cruising ease. On this project, I am installing an Elgin 22-tooth chainring (instead of the original 26-tooth version) with the correct long cranks and small (girls/juvenile) pedals. These components would make sense as being standard equipment on a "budget" Elgin Twin. From an aesthetics standpoint, most bikes look better from their right side because of their stylish chainguards. The Elgin Twin 20 did not use a chainguard, but also the chainring hides that beautiful bottom bracket shroud. So I feel that Elgin Twins looks much better from the left side. But, by far the biggest improvement in appearance was when I removed the seat-post bracket. I am trying to figure out a way to possibly eliminate the seat-post bracket altogether for a smoother look. But that would require a frame-mounted seat of some type.

 

[toro1978]

Wherever you decide to mount the seat there will always be the attachment point that will disrupt the lines somewhat. So maybe best is to simply use the original clamp.

 

[SwissGuy]

Wherever you decide to mount the seat there will always be the attachment point that will disrupt the lines somewhat. So maybe best is to simply use the original clamp.

Or go "no saddle"...

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

That’s gonna be quite a feat, especially since is supposed to be an ‘entry level’ twin concept.
Anything too ‘complicated’ will look ‘deluxe’ vs ‘entry’.
With your ingenious work with reconfiguring parts, I look forward to your solution.
One more question, Is that turquoise/green color original?

 

[Reallybigtim]

That’s gonna be quite a feat, especially since is supposed to be an ‘entry level’ twin concept.
Anything too ‘complicated’ will look ‘deluxe’ vs ‘entry’.
With your ingenious work with reconfiguring parts, I look forward to your solution.
One more question, Is that turquoise/green color original?

This build has been very frustrating. I have mocked-up many different ideas on this bike (wheels, tires, forks, bars, etc.), always to eventually realize that it looked better with the original parts. I have concluded that this is just a beautifully designed bike that really doesn't benefit from mild modifications. That's why I finally decided to build a sub-base (10) model that looked like a factory offered model. So while I would like to eliminate the seat post bracket, it would not be "factory" to have a non-adjustable seat. So, I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet. The solution (once again) might just be to leave the seat stock. With all of the time and effort spent on this build so far, I am no further ahead than just having a fender-less Twin 20 with nice patina and cream Fat Franks.

 

[Reallybigtim]

That’s gonna be quite a feat, especially since is supposed to be an ‘entry level’ twin concept.
Anything too ‘complicated’ will look ‘deluxe’ vs ‘entry’.
With your ingenious work with reconfiguring parts, I look forward to your solution.
One more question, Is that turquoise/green color original?

That green color seen in hidden areas of the bike is the original color. The color on the insides of the shrouds is nicely preserved. It is a beautiful shade of true green used on late prewar Elgins. I have found very few examples of this color on any of the Elgin prewar models, and absolutely no examples of a Twin in green. So, it's probably a considerably rare bike. Maybe I should restore this one???

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

Love that Elgin green, like you said, it’s a ‘true’ color.
Agree on the seat post mount staying stock, even though some reinforcement might be needed for a modern ’grown up’ to ride with bending it. Same thing happened to me with the post on my Roadmaster. Except, I think you run the risk of bending the mounting bracket, not jus the post. That would be tragic.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Tough to improve on an Elgin.

 

[Reallybigtim]

Still trying to figure out which way to go on this bike. I used a different stem that made the apes look better on the bike. And I am still trying to figure out a way to mount the seat directly to the frame.

 

[Bike from the Dead]

Definitely sounds like this Elgin's a challenge-and-a-half to customize. It would be cool to see this one restored, but I want to see how you'd build it your way.

 

[GeePig]

Does the seat have to mount in the middle of the frame or could it do something like mount a frame off the rear axle that kind of rests / is fixed near that stiffener plate in front of the rear wheel? I would like to see as much as possible of those upper twin frame tubes.