Been looking for oxalic acid in the stores...seems the only place I can score some is online! Like drugs, seems the higher percentage of the acid, the purer and higher the cost!
I have a bunch of shiny bikes. I had a naturally rusty 47 Roadmaster that I sold last winter. Thinking that this one may stay rusty but rideable. So to preserve the lichens it will need to stay outside, thus always ready to go. An "actual" rat rod in waiting.I found some at a Stine's hardware store. Maybe you should just clear coat it to preserve the lichens, ok last one.
So how is '46 determined?This bicycle is a 1946 CWC.
Looking good.
I appreciate your input, this a learning experience for me.C- Cleveland
O- Ohio
6- sixth year
if I remember correctly.
Likewise I appreciate you input, again a learning experience. I have a certified '47 Western Flyer, different frame though. I need to look at the SN on it.
From all I've read and researched, the 54Cw signifies 1954, as do the other features on your bike. All the background I've read says the numbers aren't in an order that would show the year. There might be some info out there I haven't seen though.
Dude, I can pretty much tell a CWC frame, but as far as dating, I don't even try. I got so confused and turned around, I gave up. I just say early/late 40s/50s, haha.CWC frames are tricky. The give away is the big C little w, aside from that dating is a general this year to that year thing. ie: 51-56.
I've tried to find any info that narrows down an exact year code, to no avail.
The frame I used for setback was an odd one, no actual serial number. Just the digits 168 engraved, not stamped on the BB. One of the reasons I think it might be a Snyder frame.
That's pretty much it.Dude, I can pretty much tell a CWC frame, but as far as dating, I don't even try. I got so confused and turned around, I gave up. I just say early/late 40s/50s, haha.
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