Felt cruiser rear hub options

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I recently bought a felt "little ......." from a fellow forum member. it has a defective rear hub and instead of paying felt an exorbitant price for replacement hub which will probably suffer from the same problems, id rather find a more sturdy subsitute.

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its got 24 inch wheels and from what i understand the hub is just a shimano coaster brake with an extra long axel, spacers and an offset sprocket. i just want something i can really smash on - all my bikes are antique and im no dainty flower so i need something to be really strong. a multi speed hub does not interest me, but smooth rolling bullet proof coaster does.

to do:
strong wheel
install girvin proflex - DONE
install lowrise bars with brace
3 piece crank with some serious pedals
thrash like a mofo/when i was young
 
Depending on what broke on that hub, you might be able to change out the parts on that hub and be set. The spacers and everything may be interchangeable. That's if it's a common hub, which it probably is. If you're going to hammer on it, a one speed is the way to go so it will hold up. I'm not sure if a heavy duty hub is available, I know they make heavier rims and spokes, but all I've seen is the standard hub on them.
Trying to figure out what kind of car that is.
 
I really dont know what the problem with the brake is. it clicks and clacks and its thrown the lock ring that holds the sprocket a few times. it just sucks. and it really makes me mad that a brand new (2005) bike has these kinds of problems. i feel more confident on a bike from the 30s...

the car is a 48 buick roadmaster.
DSC_0211.jpg
 
Sounds like you have the standard shimano hub internal parts. If the hub shell isn't damaged, it might be an easy fix ti change out the guts. A good way to assess the thing would be to take it all apart and clean the parts, then look for damage.


I found a page that might help.

http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles ... erhaul.htm
 
Is it a Shimano CB-E110 hub by any chance? Have had problems with these, seems like either they have good internals or they don't, you can still find cheap new ones and swap guts.
 
Any solution to this problem? Same bike, same issue here. I might have tried to wheelie it a couple times and the rear hub is totally making me pay now.
 
In my experience, all modern coaster hubs are inherently weak, especially on the drive side. Shimano's don't seem any better than Hystop's to me, although others may disagree. Generally, they fit the drive cone to the hub body by grinding them together with compound, rinse it with solvent, and stick a blob of low shear "grease" on it. Some come out OK, while others still have shavings in them, or just don't quite fit. Most manufacturers aren't willing to pay extra for "select" quality, which is basically just a closer inspection, and setting aside those which make excessive noise, or travel further than a certain limit between drive and brake. Cleaning and filling with real grease helps, but they will never handle adult-size people pedal slamming them like older American and European hubs (which can also be broken). With a little finesse when transitioning from drive to brake, or brake to drive, they can usually be used. Also, don't just pop the snap ring on, take a screw driver or nail set or even channel locks and FORCE it all the way into it's groove. Best solution, for hard usage, find an old pre-asian hub and lace it in there.
 
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