Fibber Glassing, How to make parts.

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Although there might be other topics about this, I thought it could be a good idea to share how I do it.
If there´s one thing I hate is sanding, so I try to get away from doing it every chance I get. This is the way to minimise that.
In this particularly occasion I´ll be doing a chain guard, but you can do pretty much everything, like fenders, tanks, headlights, etc.

We start drawing our part in cardboard




Once we´ve got our design done, we run a fit test


We change everything we need here at this point, and we move on to the second stage.
Now you´ll notice that I'm using regular foam. Regular foam melts down in contact with resin, but don´t panic, it will serve it´s purpose.



Now we cut the basic shape of our part

And then shape it the way we want it... how? sanding it :? but don't worry, takes almost no effort :mrgreen:


Now we wrapper up using common kitchen film


Ok, at this point we´ll start our mould, made of paper mache. We need gloves, an old newspaper (cut in small pieces) brush and some vinyl glue.

We apply at least six layers of paper and glue and let it dry for a day.
Remember, this may seem a long proses but it saves time and effort when sanding the final piece.


When is finally dry, we remove the foam from the back and we have our mould ready to receive the resin and fibber.



Now is time to apply the resin directly inside the mould, but first make sure you have gloves, a recipient for the resin (I use a cut plastic bottle), brush and precut (in different sizes) pieces of fibber glass.

There´re different types of fibber, in this case I used one as similar as cloth as possible cause I find it better when dealing with small parts.

We apply it pretty much the same way we did with the paper and glue, make sure you cover all the surface and that there are no air bubbles.

Let it dry, and once its hard, you cut the excess with a jigsaw.
Sand the edges and remove the paper mache in hot water.

This is how it looks after all the work is done




Now all is left is to apply bondo on the surface, and sand but just a little bit :wink:
I´ll post some pics when this is finally done.
Hope you find it helpful and try to make some parts using fiberglass.
If you have any questions or comments please let me know.
 
EXCELLENT!..Showing how an intimidating process can be mastered using tools and materials everyone has.....UH, just wondering what kind of newspapers you read..after looking at pic #11. :roll: :lol: :lol:
 
KOTA said:
UH, just wondering what kind of newspapers you read..after looking at pic #11. :roll: :lol: :lol:

Blame my wife, she´s the one reading lingerie catalogues, but I don't recommend using those, takes more time to finish the project :wink: :mrgreen:

Thanks for the nice comments guys!
 
Thanks for the nice comments guys!

Peatbog said:
Can you embed a piece of metal in there for a mounting point? Or would you attach something like that later with glue or do it some other way?
Peatbog: You can embed the piece you want in there, it will hold perfectly, I prefer that to glue it cause it will become a part of the piece once it´s dry. In this case, once the bondo has been applied and smoothed I´ll... wait a couple of days and you´ll see :mrgreen:


scrumblero: Polyvinyl acetate or Polyvinyl alcohol? I goggled it, and for what I understood if you´re talking about PVAc (and not PVA alone :wink: ) it should be the very same white glue/carpenter's glue I use to make the mould.
So in that case you´re saying that once you´re ready to apply the resin, instead of using plastic film we should apply a thick coat of white glue?
That would be even better!Please confirm it!
 
polyvinyl alcohol mold release is what we used, but Elmers would prolly be the same just a bit harder to wash off the finished part..


here's TAP's method for the stuff they sell, we used to get it for $12 a gallon from abe schusters in oaktown

http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/products/pdf/pb_tapPVA.pdf
 
Oh Ok, my bad :?

Got to read a little bit more about it and found a cool article about it (http://winshipmodels.tripod.com/pva_mold_release.htm)

Unfortunately I believe this is not available here where I live, at least not as cheap as white glue :roll: but I would definitely give it a try if I had access to it, will have to get some if it means less sanding :mrgreen:
 
I'm going after this. Finding the foam thick enough for what I want will be the hard part. But with all of the textile mills around here there must be some thick foam somewhere to be had.
 
vanilla_gorilla: Go a ahead man, this is meant to inspire the RRB community, and learn new exciting ways to reduce sanding to a minimum :lol:

ozzmonaut: Remember you can pile up several layers of foam and glue them together. I used two layers to do the chain guard.
Don`t forget that this type of foam will melt in contact with the resin, but I didn't care cause I was just using it to fab the mould.
But, and this is important , if you wanna use the foam as a mould, and glass over it, the green floral type of foam ("oasis" called here) wont melt. You can also try with cans of expansible POLYURETHANE FOAM, apply it and shape it later, just as the amazing Galtbacken did on the Whippet here: viewtopic.php?f=48&t=30162&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=Whippet&start=60 (you´ll have to sand like crazy I warn you :cry: )

scrumblero said:
tin foil sticks pretty good ... :roll:
So will then keep you from chroming the part? :lol: :roll: :mrgreen:
Seriously now, that could become a problem if you want the part painted.
 
if its on the inside, its no big deal, but picking it off the finished side is a pain from what I remember, you can spray glue the plastic wrap down pretty tight and just fill the wrinkles, but the PVA is so smooth you can gel coat the mold first and use that finish if you want.
 
first i taped off the frame so i could pop the piece out easier
SN850288.jpg


then covered it from the outside with the foil
SN850290.jpg


then used modeling clay to define the shape i wanted
SN850291.jpg


resin and glass
SN850293.jpg


rough piece out of the frame
SN850294.jpg


sanded and bondo and primed
2011-05-28181103.jpg


siliconed in place
2011-05-28181129.jpg


final ready for paint
SN850335.jpg



i ddi it this way cuz i couldnt get the shape i wanted with metal
 

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