First build. Marin Klunker/casual Klunker '52 Schwinn Hornet

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I think you can pick your poison on the fork since you're going to be taking it easy. If you were going to run fast, difficult terrain or doing a lot of jumping I think you'd want a beefier fork. @Tallbikeman ran Varsity based klunkers in downhill races in Marin county back in the early days of the sport and I'm pretty sure he ran the stock forks with good success. The forged Schwinn Ashtabula forks are pretty strong. The tubing forks are weaker. If you ever come across a 26" Ashtabula forged reinforced BMX fork, I think that's the one Charlie Kelly ran on his klunkers. And he's a big guy who rode really hard.

Nice group of badges. I really like the Schwinn The World badge, very cool.
 
This is a little OT I suppose, but not really. And it is my thread. And this guy is hilarious and cracks me up. Maybe some of you will agree. He does not intend to be, but is in his dour Dutchman way as he does a restoration on this B66 saddle. I watched it as I wanted to learn how to care for an old dried out Brooks saddle as I just bought one. I got some good ideas if I need them, and he is pretty funny as he is alternately critical of British mechanical design and parts measurements, and grudgingly complementary of the saddle after he is done. All the while being concerned about the decision his ... will make about the saddle. Oh, and then he goes for a test ride in his wooden shoes!



I'll go ahead and collect some other Brooks restoration vids I find here too. This guy laces the transition curve between nose of the saddle and rear seat portion to reduce spread.


Another restoration vid. Basically, using leather conditioning wipes, heat to help it soak in, So, I will plan on using a bunch of leather conditioner and saddle treatment/cream with heat.



Will use this toe strap idea if I need to reshape the one I bought.



Another very thorough and more time consuming approach if a saddle has to be completely reshaped.
https://www.bikeblogordie.com/2016/11/quick-and-easy-brooks-saddle-restoration.html
 
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sunvalleylaw said:
a little OT I suppose, but not really
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Totally on topic, no worries. And fun deviations are always welcome. I love watching how to videos on YouTube and I'm looking forward to checking these out. I've got some old Brooks saddles that are really hard that I'd like to try to save. :thumbsup:
 
In looking at the modern S/A Drum Brake Freewheel rear, I think I may have a problem or have to do some work on this rear I just purchased. Or I may need to save it for another project. Hmm. Maybe there is a work around. I wonder how they did it back in the ay with the older drum brake hubs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3746259493...d=link&campid=5335809022&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Also, I am going to the Boise Bicycle Project (a bike rebuilding/repair/recycling/parts place) today to scout for some parts, and then have a few more watched on that auction site depending on what I find. Someone there may have some input on the project too. So that will be fun!

https://www.boisebicycleproject.org/
 
Picked up a few parts. I am going 1x on this bike and got a Suntour Cyclone GT and thumb shifter (NOS), and since I will be riding in street clothes on this bike a lot, a shorter chain guard than is on the bike currently, which likely will NOT work with the derailleur. Hoping to go get the bike maybe this upcoming weekend.

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Also looking for some Araya 7x rims, to use to build up some more lively wheels, setting the steelies aside. the head badges got here today too. As someone said, the spacing on the Speedway one is the largest, and that is the one I hoped to use anyway. The others may go into some framed decoration for the bathroom or something. I don't know. LOL!
 
I used a little household vinegar on a shop rag and then corner of a scrubber sponge to clean off the brass ovals on the back, and start to clean the rivets a little. I am not going to scrub too hard on those rivets, but will hit them a little at a time and see if they shine up just a bit. Some patina will be fine.
 
going to use the Wald bar pictured here on my old Firsher Paragon I turned into a ....... 700c touring bike for when we were taking the kids on some bike tours in the San Juans, Idaho hot pools, etc. That bike has a Jones loop on now and the Wald which seems to be similar to the ones some of them used in Fairfax back in the day is available, and I like the hand position better.

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Swapped out handlebars today (I like the Wald WAY better) and soft fit some grips, not period correct, but will feel good and look good, and placed the saddle on to see what it will look like. Will need to get an adapter or different clamp for it. Or get a different seat post. And put on a shorter, 40's chain guard so I can cover the chain and chainring, but hopefully still have a rear derailleur.

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I made an offer for $125 on this Atom rear that will take up to a 7 speed freewheel. I think I will try to squeeze 6 into my Suntour derailleur, but will see about that with some cassettes at the Boise Bike project. Will have to spread the rear a bit. That's ok. And it will be an Atom, which is extra Fairfax Klunkerish.

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That’s funny. That atom drum brake has been on my watch list for a few weeks. Small world. I didn’t want it but was selling a bike with a similar hub and wanted to know what it was worth.

Also I have been using a7x rims from bmxguru. I have never had an Araya 7x, but believe these are knock offs. Reasonably priced. Look great.
 
sunvalleylaw said:
I made an offer for $125 on this Atom rear that will take up to a 7 speed freewheel. I think I will try to squeeze 6 into my Suntour derailleur, but will see about that with some cassettes at the Boise Bike project. Will have to spread the rear a bit. That's ok. And it will be an Atom, which is extra Fairfax Klunkerish.

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twojs.bike said:
Also I have been using a7x rims from bmxguru. I have never had an Araya 7x, but believe these are knock offs. Reasonably priced. Look great.
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Yeah, I’m not sure what they were really worth, but I had heard that gone up in price and 125 was pretty close to what the similar new stormy archer would have been so I went ahead and offered that.

twojs.bike said:
Also I have been using a7x rims from bmxguru. I have never had an Araya 7x, but believe these are knock offs. Reasonably priced. Look great.
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Now I will just have to figure out the spokes and figure out a wheel build. Never did that before but what the heck. I plan on doing that at the Boise bike project that has all the tools. Planning on using stainless spokes.
 
Got wheels in. These will be torn down and rebuilt around the drum brake hubs I have, using the Sturmey Archer front, and the Atom rear. I need to research now and figure out spokes. The Atom won't show up until maybe June 9, so will be waiting on that. I have pedals coming soon also. KKT old skool flats. I guess I will spend some time this weekend putting everything else on I can and then wait for the hub so I can build those wheels and put it all together.

I will be in Boise part of next week so maybe I can get started on the front wheel at the Boise Bike Project with their tools and learn from that. Anyone have a source for stainless spokes for a ratrod Klunker project?
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You're making some great progress! It's getting me inspired to actually build my Marin county style klunker that I've been collecting parts for. That Atom rear drum is going to be great. Is your SA rear hub just a single speed? Bars look good, B72 looks great, nice score on the rims. Lots of great old school klunker going on here. Nice!
 
Pondo said:
You're making some great progress! It's getting me inspired to actually build my Marin county style klunker that I've been collecting parts for. That Atom rear drum is going to be great. Is your SA rear hub just a single speed? Bars look good, B72 looks great, nice score on the rims. Lots of great old school klunker going on here. Nice!
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yeah, the S/A rear appears to just be single. No threading for anything more. After the Boise Bike Project co-op opens, I plan to book some time with them next week, and make sure I have the parts I need to do almost everything but for the rear end which will need to wait for the Atom. The Atom will need to be cleaned up and etc. The S/A front looks like it was never used.

I am ordering the shim Alan Bonds recommends (just a standard Wald) as the B72 seat clamp does not get tight as is, as he mentions in his Clunker Tips section on his site. I am checking as I may have 26 inch tires I can use for now, but also may order some fast rolling but sufficient for easy dirt WTB tires. Some have suggested I go tan wall, but to do that on the tires I want, I would have to go pretty expensive, such as the Rene Horse Humptulips Ridge tires, which are nearly 100 per if I get the color I want.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/tires/26-inch/26-x-2-3-humptulips-ridge-tc-tire/
Thinking Black WTB's will be good enough and the folks back then rode blackwalls anyway. The fenders will be on when it is raining, but may take them off once summer is in full swing. The danger there is getting caught out in a late day mountain thunderstorm, which is the whole point of the fenders. So I will decide over time. This is meant to be a Kasual Klunker for around town clunking in street clothes. So, will need to keep in mind my intended use and let go of making a repro Klunker designed for a different use in a different environment, including a sketchy downhill race on a rutted road.

WTB's I think I will use. https://www.amazon.com/WTB-Trail-Boss-2-25-Comp/dp/B011MS3E4C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=176VPKE42E4I6&keywords=wtb+26+inch+mountain+bike+tires&qid=1685633051&sprefix=wtb+26+,aps,180&sr=8-4
 
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