Fitchel & Sachs Dreigang disassembly.

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I thought I'd post pics of this hub I took apart recently. As I've posted elsewhere I thought/hoped it was a F&S Duomatic. When I took it apart I realised it wasn't. But it's a lovely piece of engineering.
When I picked this hub up it felt really stiff. I decided I'd take it apart and have a look to see if it needed a clean. When I did get it open I found the brake shoe cracked, so I'm happy I took the time to strip it.

Take off the retaining spring clip that holds the sprocket on.
4470380467_b3e5152206.jpg

Once the sprocket is off you can remove the spacer and dust cover. The bearing race in this picture is the wrong way up. Bearings should be inside! :oops:
4471158114_0cbc56352d.jpg

I recommend you get at least one F&S hub tool. Once the two nuts are separated. The brake arm and cover will lift off.
4471158576_5a727eda0e.jpg

As I cleaned the hub before taking these photos, the bearing race and brake shoe are still in place. However, you'll probably find that these lift off with the brake arm and dust cover. Again, bearing race is the wrong way up.
4470382245_be4f474e15.jpg

If the brake shoe wasn't lifted out with the dust cover. Then hook it out with your fingers. Once this is removed you can take the hub shell off the internal assembly.
4471159756_f3b6636838.jpg

The brake actuator is the first piece to come off. It just untwists clockwise and then lift it off the axle.
4471160196_bf0468ba5f.jpg

On re-assembly, the split in the brake shoe needs to locate on the pin that sticks out of the brake actuator.
4471160652_94cdf5e4b3.jpg

Removing the cir-clip at the top of this picture allows the removal of the planetary gears off of the axle. The spring clip at the bottom of the helix releases the spindle that the planet gears spin on.
4471161102_cafee394cb.jpg

Watch out for the washer held in place by the planetary gears.
4471161694_a175e98c12.jpg

What's still to be stripped. To get the rest of it off you need to turn the axle over again.
4470385099_6d2e396f5b.jpg

The driving mechanism pulled back to show the cone and smaller spring. The outside of the nut was 19mm from the end of the axle on my hub. Once the nut and cone are loosened be careful not to loose the cap on the end of the spring. The drive assembly just lifts off the end of the axle after the nut and cone are removed. Again the bearing race should be the other way up.
4470385595_03049492ba.jpg

Last bit, line the holes on either side of the cog up with the slot in the axle and push the small anchoring pin out through the larger hole. When it comes to putting it all back together, this has to go far enough in so the cog spins freely around it. Happy hub stripping.
4471163106_4f0092ed3d.jpg


As this is my first disassembly I'd welcome any feedback. I'll maybe update the pics with the bearings the right way up to avoid any confusion. :oops:
 
These look a little different then the new ones that are being sold. Which reminds me I am still waiting for my on back order.
 
Hi 66olds89,

I've no idea how old this is, but I know it's one of several models they made of the Dreigang. Mine has a W and a V stamped on the brake arm. Hope yours arrives soon.

And thanks Cman, I'm glad I did a good enough job to make the grade.

Cheers Jonnie
 
Hey druggedonions great post!
i just got one of these off of ebay and about to do a strip/clean rebuild.
What did you use to re-lube? I'm planning on using high-temp grease for bearings/brakepad and ATF oil for the gearings (dip method).

Do you know if there are any parts that are compatible/interchangable with the Dreigang hub?
Is there a good parts supplier (english speaking)? I'm in NYC USA and I'm finding most parts in Germany. I need a shift cable adapter (connects to chain indicator), 2 lock washers, the coaster stay bolt, and a hub tool.

Sorry for all the questions i've been all over the net looking for info in english. If you have any hints on the rebuild please let me know. I'm excited to get to it!
Thanks
Chaptio
 
Hi Chaptio,

Glad you find it useful.

For lubricating I used a lithium grease on the bearings, a copper ease like grease on the brake shoe and a light machine oil for the gears and the other close machined parts. What you plan on using looks good. I used the oil as I rebuilt, then once the main gear assembly was put together I added more oil. I didn't think about an oil bath, that would have been too sensible. Then just greased the other parts as they went on.

As for parts, I have the details of a guy in Germany that I managed to get some parts from (If you PM me I will get them to you). He's very well informed when it comes to F&S hubs. I'm in the UK so buying from Germany I didn't have to contend with massive shipping costs. The hub tool you could possibly make, if you machining skills were up to it.

Take lots of photos and notes. And leave yourself plenty of time, an hour or two should be plenty. And enjoy.

Cheers Jonnie
 
nice work there johnny. :D

if you're interested, oldbiketrader sells internal hub gear grease, it's lovely stuff and i use it in my hubs. it's sort of an oily grease, rather than an emulsion grease, if that makes sense?
http://oldbiketrader.co.uk/display_Stur ... ions=books

as for finding F&S stuff, maybe this is the chap you're thinking of, but if it isn't you may find it helpful?
http://www.scheunenfun.de/
 
great post! can anyone tell me --do you connect a sachs 3sp trigger cable to shifter in same way as sturmey trgger, in 3d gear and then along top tube w/ fulcrum, pulley etc? btw the German sachs expert, Jens, now has site started iin English--ciao, mark.
http://www.torpedo-coasterbrake.com/
 
Jonnie,

Thanks for the great post and photos! In a month or two I'm going to start on a "restomod" project on my made in Austria 1971 Sears 3-speed bike that has a Sachs 515 coaster brake hub. This was my childhood bike, yep, a one-owner bike with the factory paint still on it. It would be a barn find, but it was never really lost. :lol: I'm printing out this post to use as a guideline when I dig into the hub.

BTW, when I found this post it inspired me to check eBay for a replacement shifter. As luck would have it, there was an unused New Old Stock Sachs Torpedo Dreigang spring loaded shifter for sale with a "buy it now" price of $34 including priority shipping. A new 40 year old part. 8) Consider the Sears restomod part collection started!

Thanks,
John
 
Thanks John and good luck with your restoration.

If you're needing other F&S parts, I've since discovered that the german for hub is nabe and if you do a world wide search on eBay for sachs nabe for example you can turn up some rather interesting stuff. There's also the very helpful Jans mentioned previously in this thread.

Cheers J
 
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