I just stripped paint off a frame. There is some flash rust on it. Will the etch primer take care of that, or do I have to do something to remove that rust?
Flash rust
- Thread starter CRASH
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A.S.BOLTNUT
He who dies with the most toys ,still dies No Fear
I'm a little Embarrassed 
I never heard of "Flash Rust " 
I never heard of "Flash Rust " 
Or you have to neutralize it with self etching primer.
So the etching primer will neutralize it? I just obviously don't want the frame to rust under new paint.
And flash rust is just the instant rust that can pop up when you strip to bare metal. I had to use chemical stripper, and the water to rinse it off is causing the rust.
And flash rust is just the instant rust that can pop up when you strip to bare metal. I had to use chemical stripper, and the water to rinse it off is causing the rust.
Sanding the entire frame with 320 will remove the light surface rust and also rough up the metal enough to give the etching primer a mechanical bond. Unless its a high end brand like U-Pol or Sherman Williams it probably doesn't have much if any acid to do the etching. A very thin coat of Phosphate primer works great also. Great adhesion.
Nito
Nito
Yeah, dont paint over rust of any kind. That will come off pretty easily, even with ScotchBrite pads, then wipe down with a solvent, dry with some heat from a hair drier and get some primer on so you dont have to do it again.
Thanks for the tips. I'll clean it up and try to spray it ASAP after cleaning it up. I'll have to set up to heat up an area because of the cold, but I needed to do that anyway.
If you use an etching primmer 3 very thin coats with plenty of dry time in between is the key. 5 or 10 minutes flash time between coats depending on ambient temp. 3 medium coats of regular primer on top of that.
Nito
Nito
Thats what I thought before I got into the industry. But they are very different. Etching, Phosphate and Chromate primers are ment to be applied to bare, sanded metal only and chemicaly "bite" into it. On top of that goes your regular or high build primer if you have body work or heavy sand scratches. Think of this as your last stage of body work. Sanding this gives you a nice flat surface to paint on. Then sealer over that as a chemical bond between the primer and the base coat. If your using un catalized enamel like a rattle can I would definitely sand the bare metal, etch prime then build prime for sure. With out hadener you relying mostly on a mechanical bond then chemical. Using a rattle can clear will make the paint job waaayyy more durible also! Just my 10 cents. Lol
Nito
Nito
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Thanx for the 'real deal'! I dont recall reading about that sealer over primer before, I'll look for some.
Yeah, I priced some paint work recently and I will for sure and certain be doing upgrade spray can myself (like the Duplicolor or what do you recommend?).
Yeah, I priced some paint work recently and I will for sure and certain be doing upgrade spray can myself (like the Duplicolor or what do you recommend?).
Dulpi color is the best main stream rattle can out there. If you look up my Build Off #8 Traditional build 50's Monark Muscle that was Dupl Color rattle can but with a catalized urethane clear. I've used their cut in/spot clear and it works pretty good. U-pol now makes catalized primer; paint, and clear in a can. About $25 a can tho. I would definitely use the clear if you can afford it.
Nito
Nito
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I agree about dupli-color... been painting electric guitars with it and it flows on so good.. used rustoleum awhile back on a bike and after it dried I stripped it right back off. Didn't like the way it went on or the way it looked after. I suppose its good for something but not my bikes... Now I use dupli-color for everything.
