Frame widening question

[CRASH]

I'm trying to widen a frame. Once widened I let it sit with the widener on there. But when I take it off it reverts back towards the old size and I can't get the wheel in there. Right now I have it widened with a hub locked in place to keep that width. Should I take the hub out, let it stretch for a few days, then remove it and let it "fall" back, hoping it will be at the right distance? Should I apply heat in some way to form a sort of metal memory?

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Normally I widen further than needed to allow for the spring back issue, you have to be careful not to kink though...

Luke.

 

[CRASH]

Here's how I have it sitting right now:

Do you think I should remove the hub and let it sit "open" for a while? Maybe apply some heat to "teach" it where to stretch out?


viewtopic.php?f=21&t=66708&start=105

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Do you think I should remove the hub and let it sit "open" for a while?

Yep, I would remove the hub and give it a couple more turns on the spreader too. :wink:

Luke.

 

[Terry66]

Have you seen ndaway's video on spreading a frame? Do a search and see what you can find. I don't have the link handy, but I followed his video with great results. Basically it seems to be the same as what you are doing, but the "spreader" is up by the crank rather than back by the hub. Just be careful and go slow.

 

[outsider13]

I agree, yer spreader is in the wrong place :shock: . I do believe it should be closer to the kick stand area were the tire would rub :mrgreen:

 

[Walker]

or lay the frame on the floor, stand on the seat/chain stay and pull up on the opposite one. then of course you need to repeat for the other side and check frame alignment and check the drop outs for parallel. Steel has a bit of memory so you often have to over do it a little.

 

[Ldog33]

Sheldon Browns board method works pretty darn good. Measure, bend, flip, bend, measure, tweek until right.

 

[panelman]

You will need to remove the hub and go almost as far past the final resting point, as you had to travel to get there. If you want to move each side 1/2 inch you would want to pull 1 inch
and it should spring back to about 1/2inch. Just be careful and go slow. Pulling/pushing multiple times to the exact distance will never achieve your desired result and will cause more stress to the metal than one good slow movement.

 

[Terry66]

I have always kept the hub in the dropouts and then spread up by the crank shell. The dropout spacing/alignment need to remain consistent. By doing it that way, it really only widens the frame up where the tire tracks. (which I assume is what you are after).

 

[dougfisk]

I assume we are talking about mild steel here and not aluminum or high carbom alloy. I assume you want to adjust the dropout width to fit the hub. NO HEAT! You need to spread well past the desired width to allow for some spring back. Try 1/2 in past, check results, then 3/4 in past, check resuls, then 1 in past, check results, etc. until you get there.

 

[dougfisk]

lookie here... you can see it spread about 1 in past the desired spec...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=69485&p=703444&hilit=dropout#p703444

 

[Ichoptop]

I use a piece off all-thread, hardened fender washers and a wrench all in the hub area to push the stays out. I unually go a 1/2" over like said above. Never had a problem with alignment nor frame issue.