Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser
- Thread starter Huero Fabulous
- Start date
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Initial bearings should be set tight for a new bike to break in the races, but that needs to be done with proper amounts of grease... which most new bikes don't have.
I think that typical bicycle wheel bearings ( cone and cup ) properly greased should never be adjusted tight. Adjustment should have minimal side to side movement and spin freely. I do not think that there is a breaking in, but rather more likely damage to low grade parts,or at least faster wear from being tight.
When the race breaks in, the hub will get loose. So, setting it a little tighter initially allows for that break-in. Of course, this is what I did over 20 years ago as a bike mechanic. Maybe things are different with today's bikes.
with steel parts, as long as everything is aligned properly there is no break in; there's only wear. even the really really cheap hubs on entry level mountain bikes are good for thousands of miles as long as they're greased and adjusted properly. the rim/ spokes are almost always the weak point on the cheaper bikes. if the hubs are adjusted tight, they wear faster and begin to feel "broken in" after only 100 miles or so. if you adjust the hub properly, the cups and cones might take 1000 miles to get to the same level of wear as the "broken in" hub that has worn prematurely.
think of it this way: if a bearing is bigger than the rest, or there's a high or low spot in a cup or cone, the problem is GOING to normalize itself over the life of the hub NO MATTER how you adjust it. you can make it happen really quickly by adjusting the hub tight, or you can drag the process out over a lot longer time by adjusting the hub properly. in the end, it's a bicycle wheel, and any tolerance issues are so slight that it really makes no sense to cause extra wear and more friction by running a hub tight.
if you're really anal about it, just buy grade 10 bearings, adjust your hubs properly, and fuhgeddaboudit.
think of it this way: if a bearing is bigger than the rest, or there's a high or low spot in a cup or cone, the problem is GOING to normalize itself over the life of the hub NO MATTER how you adjust it. you can make it happen really quickly by adjusting the hub tight, or you can drag the process out over a lot longer time by adjusting the hub properly. in the end, it's a bicycle wheel, and any tolerance issues are so slight that it really makes no sense to cause extra wear and more friction by running a hub tight.
if you're really anal about it, just buy grade 10 bearings, adjust your hubs properly, and fuhgeddaboudit.
Re: Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser
This is how mine is sitting at the moment but no cash involved yet so taking it slow.
(minus drink cage)
But where are you all finding these tires?
This is how mine is sitting at the moment but no cash involved yet so taking it slow.
(minus drink cage)
But where are you all finding these tires?
Here's mine it's my fun daily rider.. 8) 8)
I had one for awhile and loved it. never had any probs with it, ofcourse i was riding about 4 other bikes :mrgreen: on and off so it was ridin a couple times a week. gave it to a friend in march back in arizona before i moved and he rides everyday and has had no problems yet he said. I am seriously thinking of getting another. :lol:
Hello, I bought one of these bikes a few months ago and havent done much since because I got a bit stuck and then discouraged. I hated all the decal stickers the bike was plastered with and most of them were easy to remove, but there are 2 or 3 that are under the clear coat. does anybody have any tips on how I would go about removing these without ruining the paint?
Also, I bought some apehanger handlebars, and a brown leather seat with matching handlebar grips. I'm going to buy some new pedals but not sure what will go along with the look. Anybody have any input
Lastly, does anybody have any suggestions of any other mods I should do?
Also, I bought some apehanger handlebars, and a brown leather seat with matching handlebar grips. I'm going to buy some new pedals but not sure what will go along with the look. Anybody have any input
Lastly, does anybody have any suggestions of any other mods I should do?
I use plastic razor blades I picked up at NAPA. You can find them on amazon too. They pose no risk to scratching the paint. With just a touch of the heat gun and a plastic razor all the stickers seem to come off with no fuss or muss. Any left over residue seems to come off with WD40 or rubbing alcohol and a rag or paper towel.
What I did was lightly wet sand the ridges with 1200 then use some fine buffing compound to remove the haze and finally several coats of wax.
I no longer have the bike but this is the closest view of the top bar I could find.
I no longer have the bike but this is the closest view of the top bar I could find.
I'm still stunned that yours were under the clear, mine were on top and it looked like a little kid applied them, they peeled off with no heat, no knife, nothing just a fingernail. So far I've added a new seat, new handlebars as the stock bars were just not ergonomic and new pedals.
Next up will be a crank, wheelset, tires, basically I will eventually end up with a nice aluminum frame with much better components, I like the bike it just needs a little improvement and personalization. I will post pictures this weekend.
Next up will be a crank, wheelset, tires, basically I will eventually end up with a nice aluminum frame with much better components, I like the bike it just needs a little improvement and personalization. I will post pictures this weekend.
Re: Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser
The front end came off WCC 20" chopper I cut the tubes down to fit. Those are the factory 29" wheels just painted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The front end came off WCC 20" chopper I cut the tubes down to fit. Those are the factory 29" wheels just painted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
