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Mar 28, 2023
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Hogtown FL
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I needed a more dependable grocery-getter and taking a cue from @One-eyed Sailor, I am throwing mostly cheap/used parts on this 1957 Schwinn step thru frame that I feel is too nice to chop up. It will be mostly pics with only a little explanation for some of the steps or if someone asks for something in particular. GIGI - grab it (bike) and go get it (stuff).......

I don't know the model, probably doesn't matter. 5 speed with f/r hand brakes. Not sure what tabs(?) would have been welded underneath the top tube. This was going to be an easy straightforward build but the paint was worse than I realized. Getting stripped for paint. The blue under the head badge was beautiful. 20231217_155036.jpg 20231209_142425.jpg20231209_142441.jpg20231217_155111.jpg
That's a Schwinn frame, but not Chicago made, it's mid 80's or later.

Still good for a build!

Interesting, I ran the frame numbers 4265904 at the Schwinn link and it came back Aug 1957 or perhaps I miss read. Like you said, it doesn't matter, its a good enough foundation to start with. Thanx @Wildcat

@Wildcat another thing that supports your 80s frame mfg date is the fat fork. I think it was released in the the earl to mid-1980s ?

View attachment 254986
That straight leg fork is mega cool. I would be glad to use that on a klunker or MX style cruiser. Nice piece
That straight leg fork is mega cool. I would be glad to use that on a klunker or MX style cruiser. Nice piece

Thanx, I actually have 2 of them and I am going to try some funky fab front fork finessing for the future (next) ORBO fiasco. Ya follow??? :)
It was most likely made by Giant. I have a fork which is very similar from a Taiwanese built 26” bmx.
I took a quick look on the Cabe. seems Fu Pao was hired to make cranks after Ashtabula or Wald or whoever folded around the 80s.
from looking at catalogs, the Cruisers I have: multi speed, Sky Blue color, and fat straight blade fork dates it to '83 maybe an '84 which falls into Wildcat's thinking......its all good.........
The metal flake sputters sometimes but really pops on the sunlite. Camera pics make the flake look kinda rounded but in the sunlite the flakes are sharp. All things considered, its worth $20/can (I had some left over).

I scavenged a piece of steel from an old treadmill, or whatever, and it turned out to be 16GA hardened steel. It took about 1 minute to burn up my Lennox hole saw, about 2 minutes after welding short sections of fine toothed bandsaw blade to the hole saw (running a slow 440rpm), and my buddies plasma cutter had a broken air supply hose which prevented cutting thru it. :headbang:
I managed finishing up with the "wheel of death" and a hand held grinding stone to make the holes mostly round.
Hopefully paint tomorrow.....
A little bit of paint makes those poorly cut holes look a bit better. The silver is metallic and the red is the same duplicolor metal spec as the frame. My camera/fone is not doing the flake justice. Ill try a closer pic later in some brighter sunlite (it pops!)........

A little bit of internal seat tube sanding (actually a LOT of sanding w/ 50 grit). I greased the post prior to inserting and driving it to the bottom. I am happy with the amount that will rise above the top tube. That will leave plenty of space for a seat post.



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