Snackin' in the shop. Shame! 
GIGI
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I looked around for a "seat" thread but couldn't find one and I also conducted a search to see what RRBers would have done in the past. I'd like to use this seat and perhaps trace the grooves with a silver metallic or white Sharpie. Has anyone done that with some success? Thoughts?
It is painfully obvious this "bike friendly" town does not have a klunker culture. I installed one of @scott1race conversion headsets and it went in nicely and holds the fork great. However, the head tube is too long and I needed about 10mm more. I called 4 LBS and 1 had a head tube facing tool "somewhere in storage", 2 of them looked at themselves and shrugged and said they couldn't help me, and the 4th one said theirs is pretty dull, suggested maybe I try to find someone else, yada yada yada (they didn't want to be bothered). I guess I needed to buy a $4K Cannondale or Specialized bike instead.
So I found a 1/2" drive deep well socket with the diameter of the head tube (approximately 32.7mm), secured it in there at the lowest spot and slowly ground the face with the wheel of death. I am within a few thousands of an inch which is fine by me.
So I found a 1/2" drive deep well socket with the diameter of the head tube (approximately 32.7mm), secured it in there at the lowest spot and slowly ground the face with the wheel of death. I am within a few thousands of an inch which is fine by me.
Very interesting! Just so I understand, you shortened the head tube a bit to accommodate the short steering tube? Very creative! I am glad that the cups still fit in there ok.
At some point in time, reaming and facing head tubes was fairly normal, and any shop installing a fancy King or Campy headset would just naturally do that. 30.2 road bike size and 34mm MTB threadless size are well covered in the tool industry.
I have done so much research about this 32.7mm Schwinn/BMX size, and am still amazed that there is not a 34.7mm reamer available for any Park or Var shop reaming tools. I had a line on one from Italy, but they wanted huge money and were not that interested in shipping to the US. I am only mentioning this because people should be careful about removing too much from the head tube on these old frames, because the bored part that fits the cups is limited. If you get any farther down toward the tube junctions, you may find big irregularities there.
For the record, the bare minimum for a threadless fork in a Schwinn steer tube is 8". I just cut one yesterday at 9", which is working out great for the BMX bar/stem combo that I am working with.
At some point in time, reaming and facing head tubes was fairly normal, and any shop installing a fancy King or Campy headset would just naturally do that. 30.2 road bike size and 34mm MTB threadless size are well covered in the tool industry.
I have done so much research about this 32.7mm Schwinn/BMX size, and am still amazed that there is not a 34.7mm reamer available for any Park or Var shop reaming tools. I had a line on one from Italy, but they wanted huge money and were not that interested in shipping to the US. I am only mentioning this because people should be careful about removing too much from the head tube on these old frames, because the bored part that fits the cups is limited. If you get any farther down toward the tube junctions, you may find big irregularities there.
For the record, the bare minimum for a threadless fork in a Schwinn steer tube is 8". I just cut one yesterday at 9", which is working out great for the BMX bar/stem combo that I am working with.
@scott1race ,
Very interesting! Just so I understand, you shortened the head tube a bit to accommodate the short steering tube? Very creative! I am glad that the cups still fit in there ok.
The HS cups fit fine. Both are flush and square. Pressed in like expected.
I have done so much research about this 32.7mm Schwinn/BMX size, and am still amazed that there is not a 34.7mm reamer available for any Park or Var shop reaming tools.
Probably because there is not enough market for one compared to the new bike stuff. Its a good thing they made a bazillion of these bikes. Plus, this is relatively mild steel, so I considered "reaming" it with a 3 stone self centering hone (popular in automotive use) but your HS is way quicker and easier.
I am only mentioning this because people should be careful about removing too much from the head tube on these old frames, because the bored part that fits the cups is limited. If you get any farther down toward the tube junctions, you may find big irregularities there.
I anticipated that and looked for protruding obstacles.
For the record, the bare minimum for a threadless fork in a Schwinn steer tube is 8". I just cut one yesterday at 9", which is working out great for the BMX bar/stem combo that I am working with.
Most/all of the big parts I get are used/scratch and dent/clearance. This Manitou fork had been cut down previously..............md
Very interesting! Just so I understand, you shortened the head tube a bit to accommodate the short steering tube? Very creative! I am glad that the cups still fit in there ok.
The HS cups fit fine. Both are flush and square. Pressed in like expected.
I have done so much research about this 32.7mm Schwinn/BMX size, and am still amazed that there is not a 34.7mm reamer available for any Park or Var shop reaming tools.
Probably because there is not enough market for one compared to the new bike stuff. Its a good thing they made a bazillion of these bikes. Plus, this is relatively mild steel, so I considered "reaming" it with a 3 stone self centering hone (popular in automotive use) but your HS is way quicker and easier.
I am only mentioning this because people should be careful about removing too much from the head tube on these old frames, because the bored part that fits the cups is limited. If you get any farther down toward the tube junctions, you may find big irregularities there.
I anticipated that and looked for protruding obstacles.
For the record, the bare minimum for a threadless fork in a Schwinn steer tube is 8". I just cut one yesterday at 9", which is working out great for the BMX bar/stem combo that I am working with.
Most/all of the big parts I get are used/scratch and dent/clearance. This Manitou fork had been cut down previously..............md
Back to your seat project, I have done a few things now with these fine tipped paint markers. I was very impressed with the way the paint flowed and was easy to guide and fill in a recess. I used some on this chain guard project and a couple of head badge projects with good success.
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@scott1race , Sharpie brand? The chain guard turned out nicely. I didn't even think about using them on a head badge. Great idea I am gonna try soon............
Ive got a bent chainring. I'm gonna see if I can straighten it out. I might be looking for something smaller than 44 tooth........
![20240508_122327[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/ratrodbikes/data/attach/264/264975-20240508-122327-1-.jpg "20240508_122327[1].jpg")
