I'll give them a test run today and see what they look like on the bike.
I just realized all of those handlebars I posted are on Rivendell bikes. I love Rivs but mine is somewhat cheaper.
SWB0 Grand Jubile aka the Waterloo Watusi
- Thread starter Pondo
- Start date
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I just realized all of those handlebars I posted are on Rivendell bikes. I love Rivs but mine is somewhat cheaper.
At the end of the day it's your ride.
True that. I'm going to mess around with some options and see what I like. As long as it's cool and funky. Oh, and comfortable. And functional.
I got some parts in. Cleaned up the cranks and put on the 38 tooth inner ring. I thought I would prefer a bare aluminum chainring to match the outer but I actually like the contrast with the black.
Installed the new 7 speed freewheel. It fits fine and the derailleur will clear the 34t big cog. I may need to add a washer to get enough clearance for the chain on the small cog but it might be ok as is. That’s about all I’m going to have time for this weekend.
Installed the new 7 speed freewheel. It fits fine and the derailleur will clear the 34t big cog. I may need to add a washer to get enough clearance for the chain on the small cog but it might be ok as is. That’s about all I’m going to have time for this weekend.
The black inner is almost ghosted. Disappears at a distance
Yeah, I think it looks cool
The 32 looks so tiny compared to the big one.
It’s a 38/52 set. I’d much prefer 26/42 for the hills around here but it’s the best I can do with 130 BCD cranks. But I also want to keep these cranks.
I use to run a 52/13 fixed gear.
Much prefer 42/13 now that I'm old
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
52-38 is crazy. I love it. Imagine dropping down into low gear for a crazy climb, it'd be like squealing the tires at 45 mph in a muscle car
Actually, I’m not clear on the gearing lingo. My current gears are 52/38 on the cranks and 11/34 on the freewheel. So my lowest gear is 38 front 34 rear which I would rather have flipped for the steeper climbs. But it should do.
I’m interested to try out the 7 speed conversion. This was a 6 speed freewheel when I got it and may have only been 5 originally. Getting a freewheel that doesn’t have a huge jump to the low gear is more difficult than I would have expected.
I’m interested to try out the 7 speed conversion. This was a 6 speed freewheel when I got it and may have only been 5 originally. Getting a freewheel that doesn’t have a huge jump to the low gear is more difficult than I would have expected.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
I'm not too great at that stuff either, but I know that a 14 tooth jump in one shift is a big change. A normal looking (BORING) 3x setup would have another ring in between.
That’s a good point. I only dropped 2 teeth from 40 to 38 so hopefully it will still shift ok. If not I’ll drop the 52 down to a 48. Or I’ll bite the bullet and get a crankset that will run smaller rings. I have a real nice TA crankset that’s ready to go but I’m trying to maintain the Shimano 600 theme if possible.
It just occurred to me that front derailleur capacity might be an issue. Hmm, we’ll see.
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Worked on the bike a bit today. It’s in the basement ‘workshop’ space, otherwise known as the library. Thankfully Robin is a really good sport about letting me wrench on bikes in the house when the weather gets too wet.
The brakes are pretty crusty, as are several of the cable guides and clamps. Disassembled and all non-aluminum parts are in the OA bath.
The brakes are pretty crusty, as are several of the cable guides and clamps. Disassembled and all non-aluminum parts are in the OA bath.
The seatpost from my KHS seemed like it would fit the frame and allows the use of the original clamp from the leather saddle.
Turns out it’s just slightly too big. I’m going to have to turn it down or get one that fits. I have a metal lathe, I just haven’t ever used it and need to learn.
Turns out it’s just slightly too big. I’m going to have to turn it down or get one that fits. I have a metal lathe, I just haven’t ever used it and need to learn.
And then there’s the bell. These are my choices.
I’d like to use the old Raleigh bell. The small one is too modern and the other is a bit clunky.
But I think this Raleigh bell has had the wrong clamp piece attached to it at some time in the past so I may have to use the clunky one.
I think it should look like this one
The seatpost issue got me thinking. There’s a number of obstacles to overcome with this old French frame. It’s going to be a lot of work for a frame that will still be too big for me. I ride it with the seatpost slammed all the way down plus the stand-over is an inch higher than my inseam. So I’m thinking about building this on an old Trek 830 MTB frame I have that fits. It would solve some issues and create others but it would be the right size and give me the option of using a cassette style rear hub for a lower granny gear. I like the idea, it just wouldn’t be as cool. And I would have to figure out how to paint it or otherwise make it look the part.
I’d like to use the old Raleigh bell. The small one is too modern and the other is a bit clunky.
But I think this Raleigh bell has had the wrong clamp piece attached to it at some time in the past so I may have to use the clunky one.
I think it should look like this one
The seatpost issue got me thinking. There’s a number of obstacles to overcome with this old French frame. It’s going to be a lot of work for a frame that will still be too big for me. I ride it with the seatpost slammed all the way down plus the stand-over is an inch higher than my inseam. So I’m thinking about building this on an old Trek 830 MTB frame I have that fits. It would solve some issues and create others but it would be the right size and give me the option of using a cassette style rear hub for a lower granny gear. I like the idea, it just wouldn’t be as cool. And I would have to figure out how to paint it or otherwise make it look the part.
I remembered I have this old Fuji touring frame laying around. It’s not perfect but it should work just fine. It’s the right size for me and has frame lugs, which I wanted. The bottom bracket width is the same so the cranks should work.
I was concerned that the cantilever brake wouldn’t reach on the rear but it seems fine.
I’ll need to cut the steer tube down to fit the frame but that will work. I’ll paint the frame to match and it should work fine. This frame has standard sized tubing so there won’t be any issues there. Plus it already has bottle cage mounts and rack mounts. I’ll see if it needs to be straightened and get it painted then this project will be back on track.
I was concerned that the cantilever brake wouldn’t reach on the rear but it seems fine.
I’ll need to cut the steer tube down to fit the frame but that will work. I’ll paint the frame to match and it should work fine. This frame has standard sized tubing so there won’t be any issues there. Plus it already has bottle cage mounts and rack mounts. I’ll see if it needs to be straightened and get it painted then this project will be back on track.
Hey @Pondo , just checking in on this build for the first time. I love the rest-rod of a classy road frame! Couple of things to note. That front chain ring jump at 52 - 38 should be okay. The standard for the old racing bikes was usually 53-39, so it's still in the ballpark. The issue I see, is that your inner ring is for a 9,10,11 spd chain, and the present big ring looks to be a 6,7,8 spd dimension. That's not going to be compatible, I'm afraid.
I didn't see which shifters you plan to use (jumped in on later posts), but that cool old 600 rear der 'throw' (distance it moves the chain in one shift) may not work with the wider spaced cassette you have in the rear. Unless you use a friction shifter set up, and then you can 'find em and grind em' to get it set in gear. But the chain compatibility with the rear cassette and the two different chain rings will be your first focus on the drive train.
I hope you can use the old 600 rear der and the cool crank. Seeing the old parts on the vintage frame brings out it's heritage!
I didn't see which shifters you plan to use (jumped in on later posts), but that cool old 600 rear der 'throw' (distance it moves the chain in one shift) may not work with the wider spaced cassette you have in the rear. Unless you use a friction shifter set up, and then you can 'find em and grind em' to get it set in gear. But the chain compatibility with the rear cassette and the two different chain rings will be your first focus on the drive train.
I hope you can use the old 600 rear der and the cool crank. Seeing the old parts on the vintage frame brings out it's heritage!
Good points OJ. I am running friction Suntour Barcons on this one. I'll check the chain to see if it's going to work. I'm not too concerned about being able to run the 52, the 38 should give me enough range by itself but it would be nice to have full functionality. Heading to the basement.....
